You do have power in trunk. There is REC (rear electrical center).

 

only 1 amp in the MY07 onwards.

 

Hello !
6 years in the future,since last update here.
Was thinking alot updating my audio system on my 07' 93ss , and every time I come to conclusion that this thing is crazy.
My setup is Prestige 150 ( 2 amps ) 7 speakers.
I heard (and red) that you have some power at the second amp in the truck,and my question is :
Can I power up an aftermarket amp,so I can add the 2 ellipse?
I don't think cutting the harness,to drive a cable trough it is a good idea (since engine bay gets moisture,dirt).


Thanks to anyone who takes time to respond to this!

 

Hello !
6 years in the future,since last update here.
Was thinking alot updating my audio system on my 07' 93ss , and every time I come to conclusion that this thing is crazy.
My setup is Prestige 150 ( 2 amps ) 7 speakers.
I heard (and red) that you have some power at the second amp in the truck,and my question is :
Can I power up an aftermarket amp,so I can add the 2 ellipse?
I don't think cutting the harness,to drive a cable trough it is a good idea (since engine bay gets moisture,dirt).


Thanks to anyone who takes time to respond to this!

Millions of cars have a power wire running through the firewall. I wouldn't sweat it!

All my cars do including the Saab

 

Much better off running a 8ga amp kit back to new amp. It is not difficult at all and they are not expensive.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Amplifier-Kits-/71527/i.html

 

Gonna need some sound deadening in those doors. They vibrate easily.

 

/\ Word to that!

 

My amp draws 24 amps, so the 30 amp power line back there should suffice, plus the wattage will be 300 max, as I'm going to power the door speakers and a sub. I think I'll use the power line that's there for now and run my cable layer...

 

Hopefully someone will still visit this thread...

If our cars have the 7 speaker system and only amp1, do we still have the wiring for amp2 in the trunk/boot?

I'd like to use the power for that, since I don't have amp2 for an aftermarket amplifier. Also, does anyone have specs on amp2 that they can share? Max output, etc. so I can compare my aftermarket amp to it?


Thanks for any info!

 

Only the power plug is there. U would need a couple of pieces of MOST optical cable, and u may need the small rear shelf harness with the speaker cable and plugs. It was part of the Amp2 installation kit. Unfortunately its not as simple as just buying and plugging in an Amp2.

 

yep.........

 

the speakers were actually my first suspect but I got the same thing with aftermarket speakers so I moved to amp1.

as for the icm which one is that? Is that the one with the phone buttons?

 

AMP1 Signal

Hi guys I hope someone still reads this thread I have a question about amp1 that's been bugging me for months now. I had distorted noise in my door speakers and I figured it was amp1 blown so I just bought a new one and still had the same issue. Then I just read in this thread that the center speaker also run's on amp1 and that one seems to be fine so I'm wondering if the problem could be from the head unit and if it's worth checking or even possible to replace that part. Right now I have 10" subs and 1000W amp that I was about to install but after reading this I have so many more questions lol. I'm just hoping someone still follows this thread and can help me out.

 

Hi guys I hope someone still reads this thread I have a question about amp1 that's been bugging me for months now. I had distorted noise in my door speakers and I figured it was amp1 blown so I just bought a new one and still had the same issue. Then I just read in this thread that the center speaker also run's on amp1 and that one seems to be fine so I'm wondering if the problem could be from the head unit and if it's worth checking or even possible to replace that part. Right now I have 10" subs and 1000W amp that I was about to install but after reading this I have so many more questions lol. I'm just hoping someone still follows this thread and can help me out.

Door speakers are prolly shot. When they go its either distorted sound, or no sound. If your center speaker works, and u have blinker/ seat belt chimes, your Amp is good.

 

Been awhile but been on holiday, finally got it working lol. Used a tester to check the power cable it was fine, ground was fine but there was a error in the remote connection. I was using a piggy back fuse to connect the remote cable, turns out the piggy back cable was not passing anything through :S. As soon as i wrapped the cable around the left leg of the 7.5 fuse and stuck it in, put the car in ignition i heard a humming sound and the amp came to life!

Currently have a 12" Bass Face 1300w active enclosure 650w RMS and does it make a difference! Dash L/R speakers will be upgraded in the morning. Should i leave the center speaker as it is or disconnect it?

Planning to upgrade parcel shelf 4" speakers, is it worth it? The stock speakers already fill the cabin with sound and bass pumping in the back..sounds better already but i am sure the new speakers will make a difference as the stock speakers are paper cones lol.

Thanks.

 

Can you post a pic of how the sub is mounted/located?

 

If there's no bare metal for the groud to connect to, its effectively insulated and a circuit cannot be made! I went off the ground for my rear lights iirc

 

Tried that but still no luck will be taking the sub to halfrauds this evening to get it checked if its working or not. If it does not work i guess il have to ebay another sub/amp. Thanks guys for all your help, i will keep you posted.

 

Hi Abzy, As you're reusing equipment, I'm sure you want the cheapest solution.
1 - Check all connections again, ensure ground point is clean (sand it a little to be sure)
Min 12v on power in, ensure you have 12v on the remote (loop to 12V constant to test - don't leave it like this !!!!)
2. the Sub won't cause the amp to not power up unless shorted. Remove the sub from teh enclosure and disconnect. Try and start the amp - Voice coils can short or a short in the connection itself. Test the sub + to - with a multimeter. If amp powers up without the sub to a quick test with any 4/2Ohm speaker. If it works a cheap 12" sub is all you'll need instead of replacing the entire box..

Manual-
http://edgecaraudio.co.uk/manuals/edb_active_manuals.pdf

 

Hi Abzy, As you're reusing equipment, I'm sure you want the cheapest solution.
1 - Check all connections again, ensure ground point is clean (sand it a little to be sure)
Min 12v on power in, ensure you have 12v on the remote (loop to 12V constant to test - don't leave it like this !!!!)
2. the Sub won't cause the amp to not power up unless shorted. Remove the sub from teh enclosure and disconnect. Try and start the amp - Voice coils can short or a short in the connection itself. Test the sub + to - with a multimeter. If amp powers up without the sub to a quick test with any 4/2Ohm speaker. If it works a cheap 12" sub is all you'll need instead of replacing the entire box..

Manual-
http://edgecaraudio.co.uk/manuals/edb_active_manuals.pdf

Hi Kevgib, if ground point is not clean and still has the body paint it came with, will there be no connection?

Thanks man, I will try all that and report back to you. Hope i can finally get this working, it has turned in to a nightmare.. I'd rather pay someone to get it working! lol

 

Quick one - Did you check the amp's own fuse(s)??

 

I put in another fuse to check, still no luck Could the amp/sub blown? :S

 

Tried with my ipod, still no luck. I will be buying a new sub/amp so once iv hooked it up and tested it i will post results. Thanks everyone.

 

@Abzy, Check AMP is powering up, do you have constant 12V and Switched remote @12v when HU is powered? Source for remote - is ignition on required? If AMP is powering up, turn off all Crossovers/Filters on amp and max gain - still nothing, check source - have you connected the AMP1 output correctly and in phase - disconnect left RCA, reconnect and disconnect Right RCA(or adjust balance on HU) If you have sound in either circumstance then phase issue. after that - amp and sub OK in their own right, get a different external source (ipod with RCAs) for example and try again......

 

Amp is powering up i have checked it using a tester. Remote cable is piggy backing off fuse17. tester shows power is going to the amp, but amp power light is not on. I have disconnected rca's still no difference. Sub and amp was working fine in my Polo. I might need to take the seat off and check the cables again. I also will check the sub by connected my ipod to it. Thanks man, will let you know of the results.

 

@Abzy, Just disconnect one side of the battery, Positive is fine, just be sure to secure the lead away from the terminal to spot any risk of accidental connection while you work, as for the rear seat - http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140374 , as in the thread, lift up rear part of the seat squab (at belts), the front is held on by two large clips that take a fair bit of force to come free, long screwdriver to lever from front worked best for me.. Taking out front seat is straight forward, but heavy, Its easier to work with it out..

 

@Abzy, Just disconnect one side of the battery, Positive is fine, just be sure to secure the lead away from the terminal to spot any risk of accidental connection while you work, as for the rear seat - http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140374 , as in the thread, lift up rear part of the seat squab (at belts), the front is held on by two large clips that take a fair bit of force to come free, long screwdriver to lever from front worked best for me.. Taking out front seat is straight forward, but heavy, Its easier to work with it out..

Hi again, finally plucked some courage and decided to take the car apart to install the sub/amp. Took off the passenger seat, gained access to amp1, spliced the cables and connected the line level converter, connected rca cables to the amp, connected power cable, connected ground and remote cable. Connected battery terminals back again to test it out! Bang on the radio and there is NO bass from the sub??? Literally no bass..?? not even at high volume? I can hear little bit of sound coming thru the sub but no bass at all. The Power light on the amp is not lit either. Sound comes out fine from all the other speakers normally, but nothing from the subwoofer. Can somebody tell me where i went wrong? I also change the 20A fused on the subwoofer just to check but still was the same.

Thanks!

 

I'm pretty certain the AMP1 is under the drivers seat for 03-06 9-3s. In '07 it was moved to the trunk...drivers side. I have read that it is worth while to remove the drivers seat.

You can use zip ties and zip tie mounts to keep the wires from moving around once you get past the rear seat along the side. You can find zip tie mounts and zip ties at Lowes or HomeDepot in the electrical sections.

 

I will definately try that in a few hours and will let you know how i got on. Do i need to disconnect the positive or negative from the battery? or both? Cheers.

 

You shouldn't need to remove the rear seats. On the drivers side, grab the door floor molding at the front door, give it a yank, then the same with the back door. Then move up to the next section near the back seat pulling up on it. Now you sould be able to snake the power cable and/or wire though along the rear wheel well.

The hardest part is poking a hole though the steering column rubber with a #1 phillips screw driver then feeding the power cable though that. And then getting the power wire rounting just right...but I'm CDO.:cheesy:

 

So i can feed the power cable and the RCA cable along the edge? Would that be fine? No interference? If so, that would save me alot of trouble lol. Also the passenger seat do i really need to take it out to get to amp1? Thanks man.

 

Hi again, I have received all wires and cables needed to install the sub and amp. I seem to find myself in a odd situation.. I have no idea how to take off the rear seats to feed the cable through! Can somebody please guide me, it is driving me nuts. I have done so many searches and tried it all and have had no luck.

Thank You.

 

My spelling's not the best..

 

@ABZY, There is only the one screw, There are two protuding brackets in the amp that secure into recesses nearest the door. Remove the screw, lift teh amo slightly and pull away from the door. Be careful, the wiring is very short!. I foind that removing the plastic kick trim allows lifting the carpet to get better access to the wires for soldering LOC (You'll need to remove anyway to route cables to the trunk..

 

Thanks mate, this is better than removing the whole seat. I will have to try this out over the weekend. Line level converter and piggy back a fuse connector has arrived, still waiting for amp/sub cables! Then hopefully i will get this thing done!

 

amp1 is located under the front left seat..

passenger seat if RHD,drivers seat if LHD..;ol;

 

Thats great thanks for clearing that up. I saw there is only one visible screw holding amp1 down in place. If i was to unscrew that, will amp1 come out? Or is there another screw hidden behind?

 

Hello Abzy,

I like the way you write. To answer your question, yes you can hook up ur line level converter/amp to the rear parcel 4" speakers. Problem is you will not be getting anything below ~200mhz (i.e. no bass). So a hooking up a sub woofer this way will net you nothing.

You are going to have to suck it up and yank the drivers seat and tap into the INPUT into AMP1 wires to get full range sound. Your amp will filter out the high freq for you leaving you with the bass freq. you desire.

This is the only way you are going to get any bass out of your subwoofer.

Sorry...but at least it sounds like you have a good handle on the rest of the intall.

 

Hi Cafasco, thank you for explaining why its not worth hooking up to the rear parcel speakers. If I propose to install a sub/amp I guess I need to suck it up and hook it up to amp1 to attain full range sound.

Just another thing, I have checked and it looks as if the amp1 is located under the passenger seat. Is it meant to be under the drivers seat? And can I disassemble amp1 without taking the seat off?

Thank you.

 

Sure, you can try tapping into the 4" speakers in the rear. It will work, but I don't know if it will work well. Try it an find out. Can't hurt.

 

Thanks, i will try tapping in to the 4" speakers and if it does not work i guess i will have to attempt to tap in to amp1. Also do you recommend to use quick splice connectors to connect the line lever to the speakers? Thank you.