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Success - New Android-Based Head Unit

20K views 34 replies 13 participants last post by  Tekit  
#1 · (Edited)
I had previously upgraded by stock radio to a JVC unit, but wanted to take the next step and upgrade to an internet-connected head unit with GPS and backup camera - my twins are about to turn 16 and start to drive and I particularly wanted to get a backup camera into the car.

After a bunch of research, I selected this unit -> JOYING Android 6.0 Multifunctional Car Stereo Head Unit with Bluetooth Double Din 2GB Car GPS Navigation Aftermarket Radio for Car with 7" Full Capacitive Touch Screen

I also bought the associated backup camera -> JOYING Waterproof High-definition 170° View Angle 8 LED Night Vision Car Rear View Backup Reversing Parking Camera Kit (C1002-1)

The new head unit is basically a large screen Android tablet. It fits almost perfectly into the opening left by the stock radio.

Installation was very straightforward. You will want an adapter to connect to the stock wiring harness - they are widely available - and directions are widely available on the forum for how to get signals for illumination, steering wheel controls, etc. I routed the wiring for the backup camera up through the hatch, and then along the passenger side floor, under the glovebox and through to the head unit. The GPS goes under the drivers side speaker cover. The hands-free microphone goes in the drivers side A pillar.

I had the PAC Steering wheel control interface installed for my prior radio. The new Android unit does not require this - it connects directly to the tap on the SID connector to get access to the steering wheel control resistor network - it can learn the controls directly without requiring an adapter like the PAC SW-I.

So after installing - I have a now have new headunit that can play music and videos from either local storage or the Internet - including Spotify and Youtube. It has google maps and Waze - you can download and run any Android application. You can install two USB devices, like memory sticks or a dash camera, and also a micro-SD storage card. The radio is a bit confusing but works well. You can get Internet from either your cell phone (which is what I do) or you can buy a USB-based 4G dongle, or you can wire in a wifi hotspot). When I'm parked at work, it talks to my work's high-speed guest wifi network.

Some of the included software is a bit wonky and took a while to good around with - but now it's running quite well.

I also had a broken rear subwoofer, and I swapped it out at the same time. Again, plenty of directions already here on the forum.

So now I have a super modern, internet connected head unit. With much upgraded sound. All in all - a very nice upgrade.

Links to pictures are below...

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#33 ·
Most of us have used reasonably cheap audio quality ground loop isolators. In essence small audio-grade transformers that don't propagate the ground from one side to the other.

PAC Audio makes a thing that will take single ended inputs and make differential outputs, but it seems a bit pricey so why bother?
 
#30 ·
Hi, on this install did your unit make a hiss or static sound? I have been attempting to get this working with the very basic wiring to start (metra harness color to color, yellow 12v+, black ground, amp connection, red ACC and Right/Left RCAs) and get low volume static. I've had the same problem with other Android units (pumpkin/eincar) but the joying has been the most quiet so far. It's always present unless I take out the amp connection... trying to figure out if others who may have had the problem solved it. 2005 9-5 wagon.
 
#29 ·
On gaining access to the backup light signal - Doug I think you are probably right if you were installing a unit or a camera that didn't have an extra signaling wire already built in to the backup camera cable.

In the case of the camera from Joying, you already have to tap into the backup light to power the camera, and the cable already has a signaling wire built-in. It takes about 60 seconds to connect the signal wire in the cable to the same tap you already had to make anyway to power the camera. I would see no reason to cut into another wire anywhere in the car with this setup.

But if you bought a backup camera that didn't already have this extra wire build into the cable, you could choose to either run your own wire from the rear, or tap in up front as you suggest...
 
#28 ·
I already had two adapters installed from the first time I had replaced my factory radio.

One was a connector that hooks into the standard Saab wiring harness, so you don't have to cut the old wiring harness off. I think I bought this one, but I would triple check the forums here to make sure -> https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-178...n/dp/B0002BEQKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501862561&sr=8-1&keywords=metra+70+1784

The second was a metal cage / sleeve that attaches to the hole in the dash left when you remove the factory radio. The new double-din radio slides into the new cage smoothly, to attach the new head unit securely to the dash. Again I'm not sure if this is the exact one I bought, but it was something like this -> https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-J22-...f=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501862890&sr=1-3&keywords=double+din+sleeve

There are excellent threads on this forum and on the Internet that cover generic replacement of the factory Saab head unit - they include the specific adapter part recommendations to go buy, instructions for how to tap into the wires in the SID connector and on the headlight switch to get signals for your new head unit, etc.
 
#26 ·
"run a wire all the way back to the reverse light to trigger when the car is in reverse"

In case its easier, it may be possible to access a reverse signal in the engine bay. According to the wiring diagram in Haynes its a violet wire and goes to the reverse switch on the manual gearbox or the transmission range switch which I believe is the unit which sits atop the auto box.

(However I realise you will still be running cable to the rear for the camera).

Doug
 
#25 ·
The connections require a saab-specific adapter to plug into the saab wiring harness. You can buy it from a number of sources

The physical dimensions of a Double DIN fit into the Saab opening (on the pre-facelift cars I know for sure, the post-facelift is bigger and requires a cage that you can buy)
 
#27 ·
Thanks Uncle, my model year is close to the ddruker, So I will trying to find a good one, for now I have not reach the right on different sites I have visited. incartech doesn't have, I will asking directly to Joying.
PS: I have been send to you a PM do you have receiving it ?
 
#23 ·
Yep, and I'm happy with my beeping sensors now, anyway - I have the post-facelift interior, and there's not as much out there about that... I know the faceplate is frustratingly different from the 9-3s (the four ugly plugs in the fascia is a dead giveaway, but I'm not positive if the wiring differs from the 9-3 back there, especially since my car doesn't have OnStar or the Bluetooth harness.
 
#22 ·
No drilling required except maybe for the wire for the backup camera mounted on the license plate.

I've installed the Double DIN unit into three 9-5's (pre interior facelift) and it's quite simple. The tutorial on saabworld has pretty much anything you need.

The only difference is that after the first one I figured out that you CAN use the stock Saab cage, with some modifications to cut out spots where your connectors will need to be. So I went and got one from the junkyard for a few bucks, cut it up and put it in. The benefit is that it is supported from the back as well and is a much more solid install than the aftermarket cages that will be held in only by the plastic around the front of the radio.
 
#20 ·
The camera that comes from Joying has a cable that includes both a video connection as well as an extra wire that you can use to carry the backup light voltage from the back of the vehicle to the head unit, so the head unit knows when you are in reverse. There is also a short cable you use to provide power to the camera. The joying camera has built-in IR LEDs, so it works at night as well as during the day.

In my case, I have a 9-5 wagon. I drilled a small hole in the sheet metal underneath my license plate mount for the cable, and mounted the camera underneath the license plate mount using VHB tape. Then I sealed the hole around the cable with caulk.

The camera gets power from your back-up light circuit - I spliced into the wire that feeds the back up light bulb in the passenger side rear light housing. The extra wire in the camera cable carries this same 12V signal to the head unit - so when the back up light goes on, the camera gets power, and the head unit gets a signal that you are in reverse.

I disassembled the interior coverings of the hatch and the trim along the passenger side of the car to route the cable back to the head unit. I thought this was easier than messing with the head liner. I also replaced my subwoofer speaker and removed the on-star radios at the same time, so I already had the panels on the passenger side of the hatch removed.

It was not difficult. I did need to add about a three foot extension to the cable that comes with the camera.
 
#18 ·
I'm interested to see how he mounted his, but this is my experience:

It is easier to get the cameras near the center on the wagons vs the sedans on the plastic where the license plate lights are. The sedan has extra screws near the center and the wagon has the hatch release holding the center of the plastic piece in instead. I bought this one for both of my 9-5s (both have android radios. one sedan, one wagon) http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-Night-Vi...ckup-Camera-/262100433476?epid=691256973&hash=item3d06673a44:g:mvQAAOSwymxVNht7. It looks more OEM, but no lights, so it isn't the best at night. I grounded the camera to a ground in the trunk lid or hatch and power it off of the reverse light so it only gets power when the car is in reverse.

These android radios need a reverse signal wire to switch to the reverse camera input. This can be easy or kind of annoying depending on how your car is optioned.

-If you have auto dimming mirrors there is a signal wire in the passenger side A-piller to disable the dimming while in reverse. It is a green/white wire going up the piller.

-without auto dimming mirrors you can a.) run a wire all the way back to the reverse light to trigger when the car is in reverse, or b.) tap into the reverse light wiring at the driver's side door jam. There is a harness going to the rear here. The problem is every light in the rear of the car is powered with a solid green wire. There are 8 or so green wires in this harness. I used a multimeter with a probe to find which wire had power when I put the car in reverse. This took some time and it may have been easier to just run it to the trunk.

On my wagon:

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you can kind of see it on the sedan here:

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wider shot for the wagon:

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#11 ·
Your funny! :lol: I never did get into those MPs players, streaming music. Love the radio, own a dwindling display of cd's, some classic records, and the 8-track in the basement, which I have not used in 4 years or so....

No MP3 player though, I can use a memory stick, and I have one computer with W/xp which still run top notch..... so I don't know what you are talking about, 80's what?

Yeah... I probably would rarely use the cd player anyway.....

BTW.. that is a nice camera shot.... Still can see most of that with mirrors, but I sure like the park assist. I feel pretty confident listening to the beeps...
 
#10 · (Edited)
I'm going to try to tap directly into it instead of using the connects two and see if it works better. They are a great cheap way to modernize the car. I have one of the older units 1gb ram 16gm storage units. The board can be switched to the new 2gb ram 32gb storage main board for around $100. I plan to do that soon. I have the backup camera, front parking camera to save my lip as well as a dash cam. The obd2 connector can take some fiddling. The cheap elm 327s work pretty well, if they will connect. work about as well as connecting to a phone. i usually have to plug and unplug it several times.

Edit: Wow it works soo much better without the connect2. I'm glad i found this. Hate that I spent the money on the connects2. It still doesn't recognize my NXT button, but it doesn't see it as an adjacent button.
 
#9 ·
On my unit that I had in my 02 Aero the input from the SID was labeled KEY2, never tried the one label KEY1 since the one I tried first worked. (given the above that it has two inputs for two resistor networks that makes sense)

Mine was an older unit and I tried for quite a while to get a USB dongle with a LTE SIM in it to work, never succeeded. That was the only downside, I had to go with a MiWi hotspot that I powered from the USB and kept it in the center console.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yes all of the steering wheel controls all work just fine.

There is only one steering wheel control resistor network on the 9-5. So you connect the tap from the Saab SID directly to one of the two steering wheel controls inputs on the unit. Other vehicles with more steering wheel controls have two resistor networks - hence two inputs. On the Saab, only one is used.

Yes it runs Torque. It will not connect (so far, but I have not futzed with it that much yet) to the blue tooth ODBII reader that I have. There is a specific ODBII reader that Joying recommends on their website, and from reading their forums, it appears to word fine.

There are no CD changer or CD or DVD capability at all. That is so 1980's! You just put whatever media files you want - audio files or video files - on memory sticks or cards - or stream music or video from the Internet. I have about 5,000 audio files on a memory card that is plugged into the unit. Gosh how many CD's would that be!!!

On the ELM 327 ODBII reader - I don't know if that one will work - I would check the Joying user forums.
 
#7 ·
It has two wires for the steering wheel controls, which wire did you connect to the sid, what did you do to the other wire? Do the SRC and NXT buttons work? I thought i needed the Connects2 SWC box and my SRC and NXT buttons are viewed as the same as adjacent buttons on the steering wheel to the radio.