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Replacing my Viggen Antenna

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14K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  grumblefish  
#1 · (Edited)
If you drive a Viggen and you have the original antenna, like me, you are probably embarrassed by it. It's flaking apart, the gasket and antenna are just terrible. A few months ago I looked up the parts, antenna 5262480 and base 5122460, thinking I would replace it. I was shocked to find out that all of the major Saab part sites and mechanics wanted 170 for the antenna and another 100+ for the base. It goes without saying - I did not order anything for that price. I turned to ebay! And order a fuba style 16 inch antenna from the Raderra store, guaranteed to fit my Viggen. Price was about 10 dollars after shipping. After receiving it in the mail I skipped out to my car to install it quickly as it was just the mast. I was not pleased to find that it did not fit: bolt/stud too small. I tried to contact Raderra through email and through ebay - they never replied. Depressed I gave up for a few weeks, but the disgust mounted. I then found one site selling the 3" stub antennas which states the 1999 Viggen has a 5mm stud and the 2000-2002 have a 6mm (excellent new information). I wanted to retain the stock appearance and luckily found a second site, AntennaMastsRus, selling both the 5mm and 6mm versions along with the base gaskets. It was about 40 dollars shipped for the antenna and gasket. It was well worth it.

What it took to do:

Parts) New mast and gasket (http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Saab/93/Saab 93 Viggen.htm)
1) Remove the shelf from the trunk and fold the seats down
2) Take the screws out of the grab handles (undo the plastic cover with an x-acto knife then remove two torx screws each)
3) Release the C pillar covers (grab and pull, I just undid the top of it)
4) Remove the rear headliner clips (twist 90 degrees and pull down)
5) Blindly slide your hand up in there and locate the bolt holding the antenna base
6) Adjust the wrench appropriately and un-torque it a half turn, remove the bolt with your fingers
7) At this point there should be enough slack in the wire you can lift up the mount and remove the old gasket
8) Slide the new gasket on (The gasket is an oval, so make sure it is centered to the base at this time - I got to do it twice...)
9) Put the base back flush with the roof crawl in and reattch the bolt, tighten it up with the wrench
10) Restore all of the trim in reverse order, be carful to make sure all of the seals are in order

The whole thing took less than an hour to do. I did not use any silicone as the stock installtion did not. It seems to have worked for the last twelve years. As a test I hit it with the hose and did not have any water sneak in. I guess I will see if it was a mistake not to in the near future. But, overall I am very pleased with the results.


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#11 ·
No change in reception. But I have pretty good reception on mine. As long as you get the same threading you could get a longer one to improve your range. The 900/9-3og does not have the dual FM antenna integrated into the back window setup like the 9-5 9-3SS and other modern cars. :/
 
#14 ·
Bob, it's also the radio antenna on the Viggen hatchbacks. The rear spoiler covers up the regular antenna hole on the fender, so Viggens used a VW-style Fuba antenna on the roof instead. I used an antenna off of a Pontiac Vibe/Toyota Matrix on my car. It was the cheapest name-brand powered roof antenna I could find, and it had the bonus of using a standard Motorola plug instead of something odd like the factory antenna or VW antennas. It's also half the cost of the Toyota part if you buy it at a GM dealer, yet there's a Toyota box inside the GM box.
 
#16 ·
Yep, that's what I did. I drilled a hole in the roof, squared off the hole with a Dremel, since factory antennas all have square bases; and then ran short antenna signal and power extension cables from the existing antenna location up the c-pillar to the roof. It was convenient that one of the two stock antenna power wires is switched with the radio. The other one is always on, so you don't want to use that or else you'll drain your battery.
 
#21 ·
So it states to loosen nut and then slide new gasket into place. Is the gasket slit in a place that I don't see for the wire? Or does one have to unplug antenna first, if so where do you unplug? Do you see plug when you pull antenna up and off roof, or does one do it blind?
 
#22 ·
Hi all. I am new to the forum, but not new to Saabs. We took a bit of a break, but picked up an '00 Viggen this spring, and are slowly working on getting her back in shape. This is a great thread, as we have a funky gasket and antenna mast, but I have a quick question. I see that antennamastsrus has masts with both 5mm and 6mm studs, both of which say they fit all Viggen model years. Is there a quick or easy way to tell what size mast we have? Or do I need to dig out a set of calipers and measure?
 
#23 ·
If you don't have thread gauges or any other tools to measure threads, the easiest thing I can think of to figure out what size it is is to take off a bolt or nut that takes a 10mm socket. Those are all M6 bolts, typically with a 1.0mm thread pitch. The most accessible one might be the nut on the rear wiper arm. If that screws onto your antenna mast's thread, then it's an M6. If the nut slides on, then the mast is an M5. From what I've seen on VWs, M5 is the standard for radio antennas, and they used M6 threads for models where the antenna was also used for GPS or other things.