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How To: Transmission Fluid Change on the Aisin Warner AWTF-80SC (06+ Aero Automatic)

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219K views 244 replies 62 participants last post by  Doug-900  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Click here for original post with pictures



THIS THREAD IS ONLY FOR THE 6 SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION!! DO NOT ASK QUESTIONS RELATING TO THE MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS OR POST INFORMATION ABOUT THE OTHER TRANSMISSIONS AS IT WILL ONLY LEAD TO CONFUSION!!!

SIX SPEED AUTOMATIC ONLY!

With that said,

The AWTF-80SC is in 06+ Aeros as well as the 1.9 Diesel versions. It is also called the TF-80SC (AWF21, AF40-6, AM6, AW6A-EL) and TF-81SC (AF21).

Recommended Fluid: GM Part # 93165147. Or if you dont want to spend $25 a liter from GM then you can go for the Ford Motorcraft XT-8-QAW Transmisson fluid. Exact same stuff but much cheaper at $8 a quart from your local Ford dealer.

Saab, as well as Volvo and Ford all recommend fluid changes at 30K intervals on these transmissions. And they really do need changing every 30K miles because there is no fluid filter in these transmissions. Just a pickup screen, which is why the fluid gets so dirty so fast.

Step 1: Drive the car up on ramps, then jack the rear of the car up until it is level.

Step 2: Slide under your car and look for the drain bolt on the bottom side of the transmission near the drivers side of the car. Grab a pan to catch the fluid, as its about to come gushing out once that bolt is off. Get a Torx bit, a T40(Should be a T40 or T45) and un screw the inner bolt like so:

Image


Once that is off fluid will come out of the middle and let it drain completely. Shoudnt take too long.

Step 3: Once its all drained out, get a 12mm hex bit and unscrew the drain plug.

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I found these at Autozone. About $10 for all three.

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This is where the majority of the fluid will come out. Careful cause this stuff is scolding hot. So hot it splashed on my sunburnt arm and gave me a second degree burn and made my skin peel and everything... Let that drain out completely. Be sure to measure exactly how much came out because that will be exactly how much to put back in!

Step 4: Refill. You have two options here. The hard way, and the hard way.

The first hard way involves unscrewing this POS of a bolt.
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As you can see I stripped mine, because you cant get good angle on it because the turbo heat shield is in the way. You could take the heat shield off, but that involves unscrewing like 5 hard as hell to get to 10mm bolts.

So what to do now you may be asking with a transmission that has no fluid and no perciveable way to fill it back up?

Use the vent tube to fill it back up! Yes thats right boys and girls, The AWTF 80 has a vent tube attached to the side of the housing that SAAB was generous enough to attach a piece of 1/4" hose to and stick it near the ABS module. It looks like this!

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The end of it should be hanging around the ABS module or brake booster/reservoir. The end of the hose will be pointing towards the ground. Find it, clean it off, and stick a tiny little funnel in it like so. I know its hard to see the funnel at first because its white and my Note 2 will sometimes over expose photos.

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While you still have the drain plug open on the bottom, go ahead and flush about half of a quart of fluid through it to make sure youve got the right hose and if there was any debris in the hose it will flush it out.

Once clean fluid is pouring out of the drain plug, go ahead and put it back in and snug it all up down there. (sorry I dont have any torque specs for you by the book yellow bellies, I simply tightened it about the same amount I would the oil drain bolt. Be careful because it is an aluminum housing that can strip easily. Especially the little tiny one inside the big one.)

Anyways. Once its all tightened up, prepare to fill the transmission with clean new fluid. I did so by jamming the hose and funnel between the coolant reservoir and the brake fluid reservoir and stuffing a rag all around it in case I spilled any.

Go ahead and start slowly pouring fluid down the hose and prepare for the most boring thing you will ever do to your car. Throughout this process you will be staring at the tiny little funnel and start to question what you are doing with your life as the fluid takes its sweet time dripping in to the trans.

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Be careful when doing this, because as you are filling the trans with a liquid, there is still alot of air inside of it that has no where to escape but out of the vent tube you are forcing fluid down. So, quite regularly as the fluid is draining, the transmission will burp and air will come bubbling up through tube. This will make quite a mess as you can see from the pictures so be sure to have some spare rags handy to wipe any up.

If you are impatient (like I am) then there is one thing you can do to speed it up. Remember that little tiny bolt inside the big drain bolt.

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Yeah that one. If you take it out while filling up the trans, it will give the air thats trapped inside somewhere to go and it will fill up much quicker.

Now when I drained my trans I had about 2.75 quarts come out. So as I began to add it back with the little drain plug opened on the bottom I got about 2 quarts in the transmission before fluid began to pour out of the bottom. So obviously when that happens, you have no choice but to put the plug back in and just sit there and wait for it to slowly pour in.

All in all, the hardest part was jacking the car up in the rear and adding the fluid back was time consuming and boring as hell. I started draining the fluid at about 11AM and was all finished at about 12:45. So almost about an hour and a half if I knew what I was doing and hadent fought the dam stripped fill bolt.

So hopefully someone found this post helpful, and maybe it could even get stickied. Because it took me about a month to figure out exactly where that fill bolt was on the top of the trans and to find the dam fluid.

GM recommends doing a simple fluid change every 30K miles. And believe me, do it every 30K miles if you want your transmission to last. THESE ARE NOT "SEALED TRANSMISSIONS" FOR LIFE like some will say. The fluid in my car was changed at the dealer about 3 years ago at 64K miles by the previous owner. I changed mine at 93K miles and the fluid that came out was BLACK. Literally was black. Didnt smell burnt or anything it was just dirty as hell.

Ive drove about 300 miles on the new fluid so far and I can say that the downshifting has become ALOT smoother. These transmissions have sticking valve body issues and mine was starting to stick and clunk on downshifts. After I changed the fluid, I noticed an immediate improvement in shifting.
 
#6 ·
Nice right up dude, matter of fact I did the fluid change today and your right the fill plug is a PIA. I went through the trouble to remove the battery box to access the plug then used the torx socket with a swivel and long extension. It took alot longer but for the first time not too bad. The torque specs are still fresh if anyone wants them, the fill plug is 22ft lb, drain plug (allen) 33ft lb and the center tube bolt is 7ft lb or I used inch torque wrench 84 in lbs.
I read in another thread someone used a hand fluid pump to pump the fluid through the tube, I did buy one but there's no way your gonna get 3 liters in the trans using this method. The idea sounds good but you'll be too short on fluid this way.
Only 50K and my fluid was dark brown, first time change, 2 more to go....
BTW I change my coolant also, that was more of a PIA....
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the torque specs. I'll edit them in to the original post shortly.

Could you share a little on how you changed your coolant? How did you drain it all and how did you refill it? Just through the over flow tank? How did you bleed the air out? And how much did it take to rldrain and refil?
 
#9 ·
As long as its the 2.8L V6 then it does. If it is the 4Cyl then it may have a different trans, im not too sure... The only difference is there is if it was the V6 then there would be a transfer case slapped on the back of yours. but the drain and fill ports are in the exact same location.

Good luck with that Fill Port! ;ol;
 
#10 ·
As long as its the 2.8L V6 then it does. If it is the 4Cyl then it may have a different trans, im not too sure... The only difference is there is if it was the V6 then there would be a transfer case slapped on the back of yours. but the drain and fill ports are in the exact same location.

Good luck with that Fill Port! ;ol;
thanks mate. yeah, she has the v6. cool. not looking forward to this!
 
#91 ·
AFT for SAAB V6 Engine



GOOD NEWS..I have done a lot of research on this subject and found that TOYOTA ATF WS is the same than Ford Premium ATF mentioned in this post...the best of it Toyota's pricing cheaper!! around 8USD per quart...and I would assume easier to find at any toyota Dealer.

For the 4 Cilinder Engines in 2.0T and 2.0t - also the Toyota Type iV is the same as Mobil 3309, actually is made by Mobil...so we can go to Toyota all SAAB owners to get our ATF.

Hope this helps..
Regards
CarlosIrving
 
#12 ·
There are a few "universal" Fluids that claim to meet the AW1 spec... But I would not trust these just to save $2 a quart.

Take a look at this thread, lists some universals that claim to meet the AW1 spec:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206312

But when the Ford Fluid is only $8 a quart and you shouldn't need any more than 4 quarts its a safe bet. Alot better than paying $25 a quart for the GM stuff :nono;
 
#13 ·
There are a few "universal" Fluids that claim to meet the AW1 spec... But I would not trust these just to save $2 a quart.

Take a look at this thread, lists some universals that claim to meet the AW1 spec:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206312

But when the Ford Fluid is only $8 a quart and you shouldn't need any more than 4 quarts its a safe bet. Alot better than paying $25 a quart for the GM stuff :nono;
agreed! apparently the non-synthetic mobil 3309 works well too and it's even cheaper.
 
#15 ·
No no no no! That fluid WILL NOT WORK! People get confused about the automatics in these cars. The 2.0 automatics came with a 5 speed auto that takes that kind of fluid. That fluid will not work in the AW 6 Speed. People have tried before and nearly ruined their transmissions.

The AW 6 speed needs a special mineral oil based fluid, that is why it is hard to find and generally more expensive. Normal dino and synthetics will not work. Trust me on this one, DO NOT USE MOBIL 3309! I literally did a months worth of research over many many different car forums all that use the same transmission to find out all of this stuff.
 
#26 ·
Great original post, thank you! I think there are some details to work though though...

First, I don't understand how to reconcile the fluid level differences in the two fill approaches. I used the "pump it in from the bottom" approach... which took some fussing, with the right pump and tubing bits it really wasn't that bad.

When you do it that way, you get (from memory) about 1.5 quarts out when you pull the drain tube, and you pump about that much back in.

Here, you are still pulling the drain tube to drain, but you are pumping a lot more fluid than that back in (if I was reading your description correctly). So either the pump from the bottom approach is leaving the tranny too low, or the fill from the top is putting too much fluid back in.

Then the fluid question is next. I got the GM juice, but if there is an $8 per quart Ford alternative, that's great. Even if it is a less "durable" fluid, I'd be OK with that as well, as I am changing the fluid to get junk out as much as I am to get fresh fluid in. More changing = more flushing. I'm thinking about doing a 1.5 quart swap each time I change the oil.

So great and clear post to ask the right questions to move this topic forward... thank you!
 
#27 · (Edited)
Great original post, thank you! I think there are some details to work though though...

First, I don't understand how to reconcile the fluid level differences in the two fill approaches. I used the "pump it in from the bottom" approach... which took some fussing, with the right pump and tubing bits it really wasn't that bad.

When you do it that way, you get (from memory) about 1.5 quarts out when you pull the drain tube, and you pump about that much back in.

Here, you are still pulling the drain tube to drain, but you are pumping a lot more fluid than that back in (if I was reading your description correctly). So either the pump from the bottom approach is leaving the trans too low, or the fill from the top is putting too much fluid back in. Or maybe you didn't have the car level when you drained it all out thus not getting all of it out.

Then the fluid question is next. I got the GM juice, but if there is an $8 per quart Ford alternative, that's great. Even if it is a less "durable" fluid, I'd be OK with that as well, as I am changing the fluid to get junk out as much as I am to get fresh fluid in. More changing = more flushing. I'm thinking about doing a 1.5 quart swap each time I change the oil.

So great and clear post to ask the right questions to move this topic forward... thank you!
Certainly! Good questions. When I drained my trans from the drain plug on the bottom (i.e, taking out the big plug on the bottom) I got a hare over 2.5 quarts out. And I put in a hare over 2.5 quarts back in.

When you pump the fluid back in, you cant pump any more in than about a quart because the fluid will eventually spill over the drain plug/tube thing in the bottom of the trans. Unless all you did was take out the small drain plug inside of the bigger one and only got a quart and a half, that sounds like your transmission may have been over filled, because I maybe only got a quart out. I know that my transmission fluid was at the right level because it was changed at the dealer and I have a receipt showing that it only took 3 quarts. for a drain and refill.

And I can say the Ford equivalent fluid is works just as well as the GM stuff. After one flush, my transmission has been shifting great. It use to clunk a little on the downshifts because of the sticking valve body but the new fluid really helped get rid of that. ;ol;

Im going to do one more drain and refill this weekend for good measure.

And for further reading, if you anyone has the patience to read all of this:

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?21696-TF-80SC-transmission-fluid-change

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/enesd/2011-01-01_185206_xc90_v8_transmission_fluid_change.pdf

It appears Volvo People use T-IV. I don't know what to think about the fluid any more :confused:

Also, it looks like Volvo has changed their specs in 2012 to say only use AW1 fluid and that the T-IV fluid is no longer approved. From that same thread:
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...rums/showthread.php?21696-TF-80SC-transmission-fluid-change&p=161780#post161780
 
#28 ·
Great thread, here is another nice little tidbit...

From this page:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/90/original/PRE-ATRA09-RCW.pdf

Complaint:
• Fluid discoloration
• TCC clutch failure
Cause:
• Improper fluid will not control TCC clutch slip rate and dissipate heat.
Correction: Suggested fluids
• T-IV or 1161540 for Volvo
• XT-8QAW-Ford
• JW53309-Mazda
• 9986195-GM
• Mobile 1, ESSO or Castrol full synthetic are aftermarket alternatives

Which backs up your Ford fluid recommendation! :)
 
#30 ·
So what is the correct fluid level then?

I assumed it was the top of the inner (taller) drain tube. That when you were at the top of that, the tranny was full.

Your documented process indicates about 1 quart more than that. Which matches what you observed from the last dealer fill. And it also matches what I observed when I first cracked mine open (bought used at 46k miles and immediately changed fluid because I suspect it was original).

So "1 quart above the top of that tube" seems to be how full it is from the dealer and factory, but then why on earth do they have that tube in there made too short in the first place?
 
#32 ·
Well that's just it, if the tube is there to check the level, it doesn't work. Unless you are trying to check and see if the tranny is 1 quart down. :roll: Then it works great.

It doesn't work to fill the tranny either, because again, it only allows you to fill the tranny to 1 quart low.

Maybe the tranny is "full" at the top of that tube according to the original design specs for the tranny, but the tranny works just as well with an extra quart in there. So when Saab (and others) tried to extend the tranny fluid change interval, they leveraged the fact that you can get an extra quart in there and get a little more fluid and a little more life. So either is fine really, but why not run the extra quart.
 
#33 ·
good point regarding us with the haldex xwd systems (that is what my wife has). that might put an even more complicated spin to what is already confusing and complicated lol!!! I haven't read about it or even looked yet, but am I right in assuming that the transmission and xwd system are sharing fluid, or are they separate sealed units that both require different fluids?
 
#34 · (Edited)
So, just to tidy up the thread....

1) Drain transmission as much as possible by removing the entire two part drain plug assembly from the bottom of the transmission (torx bolt in a hex head tube that threads into the tranny).

2) Replace drain plug and put a total of about 2.75 quarts (2.6 Liters) back into the tranny (using either fill plug or vent).

3) Repeat 3 or 4 times, driving for a while between each, to effectively "replace" all the captive fluid and flush the tranny.

Nice and easy...
 
#37 ·
That PDF I linked also talked quite a bit about a lot of "software patching" to get the tranny to work right.

So the difference between Volvo / Ford / Saab may be how smart they made the ECM to "work around" wonky situations. Maybe Volvo made the software smart, and Saab just picked a more expensive but less fussy fluid.

How does the power of the Ford V6 motor compare to the Aero motor? That could be a factor as well. Perhaps the Ford fluid doesn't transfer heat as well, but it doesn't matter, because the transmission has a ton of margin. The Saab V6, with a turbo, is on the edge of the transmission spec and they put in better fluid to gain a little more margin.

All pure speculation of course....
 
#38 ·
The AW 6 speeds were used in alot of cars. The Ford 500, which had a 3L V6 with 230Ft LBS of torqe or so I think, they also had an AWD version which (surprise surprise) is based on the same Haldex AWD system used in the Saabs... Same deal with the Cross over type cars, like the Mazda CX9, used the same trans, same fluid, and same AWD system.
 
#46 ·
Yep. In theory it shouldnt hurt the trans at all if ts over filled, because of that vent tube. Apparently all of the AWs have them and thats exactly what it is meant to do. If its over filled then it will vent out of the tube and on to the ground before it bubbles or foams up and thus causing the fluid to overheat and causing some serious trans damage.