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GM900/9-3 Recall. Firewall crack.

100K views 269 replies 68 participants last post by  ZAZ  
#1 ·
Saab admits that all RHD GM900/9-3's are prone to firewall or bulkhead cracks. This is an important saftey issue.

Saab Australia is repairing all vehicles at Saab's cost irrespective of where the vehicle has been serviced or the vehicle warranty.

Procedure

1. Determine if there is a crack. This will be located around the brake booster and where the rack attaches to the firewall. Check with a mechanic, you can see the crack without the need for hoisting the vehicle.

2. Contact your local Saab dealer for an inspection. My dealer couldnt even see the crack and gave me a hard time. If they do contact your Saab/GM consumer hotline.

3. They will put your vehicle into the system for repairs. There is a 3 month wait for Saab parts in Australia.

4. A panel shop will remove the brake booster, Steering box and steering rack. A Saab repair kit will be welded to the firewall. Repaint. Replace brake booster, steering rack and replace with fresh Saab oil.

I am getting further info from Saab HQ and will post info as it becomes available.

I hope this helps.

Regards Mark.
 
#249 ·
ok, I have never uploaded a video before, give me some time to work out how to do it, and will post links here (I took three videos)

I am sure the crack is relatively new, probably started when my front dampers went, and I am sure because there is no rust anywhere around the crack, would suggest to me that it's very new.

Annoyingly, I am not going to pay for the repair, I can't afford the crazy labour rate where I live, and the suspension damage together render the car "finished". And it won't pass the yearly test like this so the car is currently worth less than a can of baked beans

I wrote a letter to SAAB SE, might as well give it a try to see if they are willing to support me, otherwise, the car is going straight to the scrap yard.
 
#251 ·
I tried to get the bolt on strengthening part from PFS for a 1996 NG 900s 2.3 Non turbo manual. But they have no listing. What have others done to strengthen the firewall here if there is not kit for an as yet sound firewall.
 
#253 ·
It's pretty hard to see. Even with someone turning the wheel, a torch, and looking in the right place, you can barely see the flex.

The best diagnosis is just to sit in the car, parked, and turn the wheel with your foot on the brake. If you can hear creaking, that's a sure sign, and (apparently) if you feel movement in the brake pedal, that's another one.

Hopefully it's not cracked. ****ty problem to have to sort out.
 
#257 ·
Hi
Figured that i had a firewall crack but couldn't see one. I was working on the front brakes yesterday and, there it was. Rhd car, the end of the rack had been working against the rh inner wing. A ding behind the end of the rack and a visible crack where the inner wing meets the firewall. Has anyone else had this? .
 
#258 ·
The crack is where the steering rack bracket mounts, near the brake booster.

Do the test:

With your foot on the brake, turn your steering lock to lock(full left & full right). If your brake pedal has excessive movement, it's gone.

If not get a rack brace on there ASAP.
 
#259 ·
Hi
I've got all the wierd noises if i steer at low speed and i've got the pedal movement too. I put the pfs rack brace on and it only worked for half an hour - it couln't stop the rack sliding. I've since put polybushes on both mounts and you can see everything getting set up for a metal fatigue crack. But the crack that i have got is on the seam where the inner wing meets the firewall, apparently caused by the end of the rack working away against the lip of the inner wing. I was asking if anyone else had had a similar crack as, because i can access it through the wheel arch i was thinking of stripping back carpet etc in the cockpit and having a go with a mig welder to close the crack, put a plate on to strenghten it and another on the lip of the wing to block the rack. Also maybe fix a bit of quarry conveyor belt rubber between the rack and the wing. Great stuff that. Got a 31 year-old landrover which i "carpeted out" with it and lost half the noise and vibration!. cheers
 
#261 ·
Minority interest -rhd. Don't recommend that anyone tries powerflex bushes as a solution. I checked-out the passenger side thoroughly and it was fine but, with the new bushes on,the mounting plate came away from the bulkhead like the top of a sardine tin!. It's not what i'd call welded but i now have more influence over where we're going!:lol:
 
#267 ·
Bulkhead issue on your 93



Hi Ollie,

I just saw your post and wanted to ask if you could post more details about your 93 (eg, year of manufacture, sedan\hatch\convertible, engine, transmission, etc).

Also and in response to your question, $1600 is more than a reasonable price as I was quoted $3500 back in late 2009\early 2010 to have the same issue fixed by a Saab independent mechanic in Sydney. In the case of my 1997 900S v6 manual hatch, I had paid $4000 for it and didn't want to spend $3500 to have it fixed. I ended up having it fixed for free by a NSydney-based Saab dealership in Mar 2010 but it took a few phone calls to Saab UK and Saab HQ in Sweden with some strong words before Saab Sweden finally authorised for the repairs to be done at their expense.

Since Saab no longer exists and GM has pretty much washed their hands of this issue after selling Saab to Spyker, I am not sure whether it would be possible for you to have this issue fixed for free in 2016.

Notwithstanding this and after spending a lot of money on my 900S over the 6.5 years I have owned it, it was recently written off after being involved in a multi-car pile up (van rear-ended my car which hit the one in front, got deflected onto incoming traffic before being hit by another van).

With the benefit of hindsight, I realised that no matter how much money I had invested in keeping my car on the road, there was always a real risk that it would be written off and that I would only get back the car's insured value but NEVER the cost of the repairs\improvements I put into the car. So, on paper, I would have probably been better off if I have salary sacrificed a new car over the same period I had owned my 900S. But in my case, I justified the cost of the repairs based on the following 2 reasons: the pleasure I had driving my car AND the knowledge that I did everything to keep my car from being a threat to myself and to others.

So, here's a tiny piece of advice which you might choose to take on board ... or you might choose to tell me to go jump. :)

Before spending the money, you have to take all emotional aspects out of the equation and ask yourself the same questions you would ask if you were considering repairing an asset like your home, machinery, furniture, appliance, etc:
1. Do the benefits of driving my 93 outweigh the $1600 repair costs?
2. Using any tax deductions applicable to me, can the $1600 costs be spread\amortised\recouped across the year(s) I intend on keeping my 93?
3. Is $1600 worth paying to feel safe on the road AND not be a threat to other drivers\pedestrians in case the steering fails without warning?

If and only if you have honestly answered 'yes' to all 3 questions, should you go ahead with the $1600 repairs. And if you decide to go ahead with the $1600 repairs, please make sure that it gets done by a mechanic who has done this specific type of repair before properly.

Just my 2 cents ...
 
#268 ·
Hi,
Many thanks for your detailed message and advice it is most appreciated. I hope you were OK, after your accident. In answer to your questions, it is Saab 93 S, Automatic, Convertible 1998 4 cyl, 2.0 L.
I know that if it is written off, I would not reclaim the money I have invested in it , however it has sentimental value, so as a result I would like to keep it and keep it in reasonable condition. I think I should get it fix sooner rather than later as I think it may get worse.

Would you know anyone in Melbourne , who are good to fix it.
Best wishes,