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Are Saab 93 and 95s reliable?

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3.9K views 25 replies 12 participants last post by  lgbsaab  
#1 ·
Looking for a solid dd and have seen a ton of 93 and 95s in the $3000 price block with only 100k or so. What do you think? Bad idea?
 
#2 ·
1999 9-3 would be the most reliable in my opinion.
It's the only 9-3 to use the older but tougher B204 engine.

No MAF to worry about going bad, no electronic throttle body needing reset and no T7 so it's easier to tune and add to (like a BOV)

Future 9-3's ('00+) years can be reliable as well, as long as the PCV Update was taken care of soon enough. They have the newer B205 engines.

Same with the 9-5's ^
 
#3 ·
Saab's are wonderful cars in many ways and a joy to drive, I am very happy with mine as a daily driver. Saab owners are on the whole engaged and there are several forums like this to offer support and knowledge. Parts are widely available and generally affordable. However, I think it would not be fair to represent them as "reliable" when compared to other cars. Saab's are probably more reliable then Audi's, but perhaps less reliable than most other marks. All engineering is compromise, and all cars represent a balance of compromises--performance vrs. mileage, handling vrs. comfort, features vrs. cost, cost vrs. safety, etc.

Saab's are safer than many other cars. Saab's perform and handle well to the sporty side. Saab's will last a long time when maintained, Saab's have great design and style, Saab's get only ok mileage--toward the poor side, Saab's are fun to own and drive, Saab's are not known for their reliability. If reliability is the most important feature you are looking for in a $3,000.00 car, give the Saab a pass and go Japanese. IMHO.
 
#4 ·
Saab's are wonderful cars in many ways and a joy to drive, I am very happy with mine as a daily driver. Saab owners are on the whole engaged and there are several forums like this to offer support and knowledge. Parts are widely available and generally affordable. However, I think it would not be fair to represent them as "reliable" when compared to other cars. Saab's are probably more reliable then Audi's, but perhaps less reliable than most other marks. All engineering is compromise, and all cars represent a balance of compromises--performance vrs. mileage, handling vrs. comfort, features vrs. cost, cost vrs. safety, etc.

Saab's are safer than many other cars. Saab's perform and handle well to the sporty side. Saab's will last a long time when maintained, Saab's have great design and style, Saab's get only ok mileage--toward the poor side mileage ?, what sort of mileage ? , Saab's are fun to own and drive, Saab's are not known for their reliability.... Is this due to the manner in which many are driven ?? If reliability is the most important feature you are looking for in a $3,000.00 car, give the Saab a pass and go Japanese. IMHO.
A very true, honest, and comprehensive response.;ol;
IMO, there is little true difference in reliability between automobiles, but when ones add the "sportiness" of the manual transmission and the turbocharger, then things change...
And the most vital ingredient in reliability is the quality and quantity of preventative maintenance, and this applies to all vehicles.
My 900s has been the equal of the Honda Accord...thus far, with about the same age and mileage...But, and this is hard to admit, many Honda components and design are better quality.
the power steering rack
the upholstery
the body's rust resistance
the accessory drives
the HVAC controls
The SAAB is superior in ergonomics and style; its electronics more advanced.
 
#5 ·
I have a 2000 9-3 and I get a little under 20 MPG around town, and 25 or so on the highway. Admittedly, I drive in a "spirited" manner and not to maximize fuel economy, but this is not as good mileage as I get in my other daily driver of similar vintage (98 V70, 22 MPG around town, 28 highway), and about the same mileage as my 98 BMW M Roadster, which has significantly more horsepower and which I drive much more aggressively.

I agree that the regularity of preventative maintenance is a key factor in reliability, and I am religious about my routine maintenance, but even so, I have had more than my fair share of non-maintenance related issues with my Saab, and after joining this forum, I realize that my issues are quite common Saab issues.

I bought the Saab 3 years ago with 60K on the clock, I now have 90K. In that time I have had to replace the brake power booster (no brakes); neutral safety switch/gear selector indicator (starter would intermittently not engage); thermostat--twice; water pump O-rings (went ahead and replaced the pump while I was at it, but it was the O-rings that were the problem--a much bigger job than it should have been as the O-rings are really buried); fuel pump (car wouldn't start--also a bigger job than it should have been); entire crankcase ventilation system (terrible oil leaks and was quite an extensive job as it turns out--also was a design issue as Saab had a superseded replacement part with larger apertures); Boost Pressure Valve (no boost from turbo); cat back exhaust (normal stuff); front and rear brakes (also normal stuff). I probably have done more, but that is the major stuff I can recall off the top of my head. No complaints, and I do all my own work, but that is a lot of work to have to do in 30K miles, and at such low mileage--I haven't even crossed 100K yet!

Still it is a very fun car and I love it--if you do your own maintenance and are good with the search function of this and other forums, you should be able to handle it. If you pay someone else to work on your car, stay away.
 
#7 ·
Still it is a very fun car and I love it--if you do your own maintenance and are good with the search function of this and other forums, you should be able to handle it. If you pay someone else to work on your car, stay away.
I think your last line is the general consensus among most of the forum members that have been around a while. It also explains why this and other saab forums are generally very mechanically knowledgeable when it comes to fixing things: The options are oftentimes fix it yourself, or sell the car.

For the price, IMO, you really cannot beat a used Saab. That is, if you're willing to order parts online, and be prepared to get a bit dirty and learn how to turn some wrenches along the way. You'll acquire a small tool set and start tackling bigger and bigger tasks.

Also, as a prior poster has written: We tend to drive them with some gusto. More so than others, but people who will search out a fix or idea on a car forum are far more likely to be, to an extent, a 'car person' than your typical person who simply doesn't care. So, the demographic you're hearing from here ranges from the car-aware consumer to the car obsessed boost addict.

The boost addict will most always be 'fixing' more things. You pay to play =)

So, that being said, in short, if you're comfortable with the idea of taking to small fixes yourself, instead of running to the garage for every little issue, you'll probably be fine. Preventative maintenance is key on these things; As well as quality oil, reasonable oil change intervals, and quality fuel.
 
#6 ·
I bought my '97 for $1000 and the mileage was at 144,880. I put a $500 5-speed transmission in it and a few hundred in extras (DI Cassette and few used tires and rear brakes). So far, I have driven 27-k miles and from Columbus to Akron I get nearly 40-mpg (more than twice what my '01 Sierra gets). I was looking at a newer Saab under warranty, but because of the probability of no parts in the future, I have decided to stay with what I have and can work on... Ron
 
#9 ·
My 9-3 'vert (added wind resistance with the 'vert roof and also added weight) is averaging 32-33mpg on the highway at about 70 MPH steady. City is about 26. That's on Winter gas, so bump those about 1mpg for Summer. I don't think you'll find many cars with similar power on tap that do as well.

I agree that Saabs should be owned by those who like to do their own maintenance, at least of basic items.
 
#11 ·
our stage 3+ auto '01 9-3SE is pretty much "never work on it Honda reliable" it has some electrical glitches (seat recline stopped working, SID has 95% pixels missing) drivers seat has cracks, radio has a mind of its own sometimes, etc.....but the car never ever fails to start and have NEVER left us stranded, we have owned it since 50k miles and over 5 years later and at 113k miles it is still drove every day. normal maintenance is 3k oil changes.

stuff I have done as preventative
newest PCV update
drive belt
brakes
replaced vacuum lines with silicone
thermostat


repairs-
passenger side axle (need to do that again)
breaks HVAC knobs alot lol
wood laminate delaminates on the dash-replaced once, need to do again soon
 
#12 ·
the car is only as good as the maintenance done by the previous / current owner.

in general they are very reliable but it could be a disaster and money pit if it was not taken cared of which is usually the case with most saabs.
 
#13 ·
I was looking for a winter car on Craigslist. Bought a 99' 9-3 SE 4 door hatch with 5 speed manual and 162k miles for $950. No dents or dings. Only exterior rust is a spot on the lip of the hood. Tires have 95% tread. P/S strut tower rusted through around a seam and needs eventual graft weld. Honestly, they seem like decent cars when/if they are taken care of. But they can be money pits. ANY car with 100k+ miles will need the usual stuff replaced. If you want to get better gas mileage from one of these, run synthetic, open the air filter box up as the tube to atmosphere is extremely small. Run a less restrictive muffler. These cars are, in my opinion more expensive to keep on the road. Turbo failure or replacement is an added worry as cars without turbos have less stuff to replace. The DI cassette is a joke as it's not cheap to replace (brand new) and can go out at any time leaving you stranded. Easy to replace though. Many of the common parts to fail are not cheap to replace unless you source a used part. Common stuff to go bad:
1. Motor mounts (3-4). Left and middle ones are $130-180 each. Right side under battery is around $30-50
2. DI Cassette $50-400
3. Turbo $100-1000+
4. Front Struts $35+ each
5. 2000+ engines prone to oil coking from the factory. $$$$ to replace
6. Exhaust manifold bolts can/will shear off if motor mounts fail
7. SID screens become unreadable.
8. Heater/AC screen becomes unreadable or hard to read
9. Switch for power mirrors will fail
10. Lots of vacuum lines will soften and fail over time; $10 for about 6 feet
With the exceptions of 2, 3, 5, my car has, needs, or I fixed the rest.

That's just a list of common stuff inherent to the car that typically needs fixed. Expect an oil change, new plugs, air filter, fuel filter as preventative maintenance. Fuel pump, battery, alternator, brakes, clutch, will need replaced eventually after 100k if they aren't already. I think I got a good deal on mine, but if you pay $3000, put a little more aside for the stuff that will need fixed. I think I have around $1400 total in mine. That includes buying price, tax, title, plates, 1 motor mount, tune-up, oil change, etc. Still need 2 O2 sensors, possible rear brake calipers, transmission and P/S motor mount, front struts, and something with the evap system (possibly a sensor) needs a going over. I fully understood what the car needed or would need before buying. But for the price and the overall physical condition of the car, I should be OK when time comes to sell as I think I can make a profit as well as a having had a decent 2nd car to drive. Love the heated seats!!!
 
#14 ·
Common stuff to go bad:
1. Motor mounts (3-4). Left and middle ones are $130-180 each. Right side under battery is around $30-50
2. DI Cassette $50-400
3. Turbo $100-1000+
4. Front Struts $35+ each
5. 2000+ engines prone to oil coking from the factory. $$$$ to replace
6. Exhaust manifold bolts can/will shear off if motor mounts fail
7. SID screens become unreadable.
8. Heater/AC screen becomes unreadable or hard to read
9. Switch for power mirrors will fail
10. Lots of vacuum lines will soften and fail over time; $10 for about 6 feet
Comments on the above:

1. Some people, they do wear.
2. Yes, after 75K miles or so. A failure point in all DI cars, not just Saabs
3. Unusual. A well maintained car will not need a turbo for a long time
4. Wear item in any car
5. Not "prone" unless poorly maintained, but a pan drop before purchase or right after is always a good idea. No problem if you upgrade the PCV & do your oil changes on time.
6. Common on some cars. Saab has taken some measures to prevent it, but it still happens.. not nice when it does happen, but not that common as a problem.
7/8. SID & ACC. Major fail on cable quality Saab's point. NG900's did not have this issue. ~ $100 each for repair.
9. Actually, the switch is fine. The contacts are just dirty from lack of use. You can clean them, but pushing the switch left/right or up/down for whatever contacts are dirty will clean them off and it will work again. Using it once a month is enough to keep it working. but you can always do the above.
10. Cheap maint... and a few minutes work
 
#15 ·
You asked about both the 9-3 and the 9-5 so as an owner of both, I think the 9-5 is slightly more reliable than the 9-3 if all required maintenance has been performed. With the 9-5, the same sludge concerns exist between 99 and 2002 model years, so similar precautions must be taken when making a purchase. The downside to the 9-5 it that they were not made in the same numbers as the 900 and 9-3 and can be a little harder to find salvage parts.
 
#16 ·
I love my 9-3 but I have had to fix way too many non-routine things that I honestly would not reccommend the cars to another person unless you are pretty handy. I have had to replace the control arms, the front bearings, front strut towers, the suspension, the alternator three times, the compressor, the radiator fan, the idler and I am now replacing the whole exhaust system. Yes some of these items wear out but not as early as 80,000 miles. Yes some of these things can be done DIY but I franlky don't have the time or resources to do all this work. As said previously, if you need to have someone else work on your car, stay away. If you don't believe me, ask local independent mechanics and they will tell you how much the "love" working on Saabs.
 
#17 ·
I love my 9-3 but I have had to fix way too many non-routine things that I honestly would not reccommend the cars to another person unless you are pretty handy. I have had to replace the control arms, the front bearings, front strut towers, the suspension, the alternator three times, the compressor, the radiator fan, the idler and I am now replacing the whole exhaust system. Yes some of these items wear out but not as early as 80,000 miles. Yes some of these things can be done DIY but I franlky don't have the time or resources to do all this work. As said previously, if you need to have someone else work on your car, stay away. If you don't believe me, ask local independent mechanics and they will tell you how much the "love" working on Saabs.
I also recommend Saabs to people that are handy, but that's true of a lot of cars these days - they are way too expensive to maintain at even indy prices for parts and labor. I'm not sure when auto repair became a skill equavalent to highly educated professionals, but now auto mechanics expect to make $100K/year... along with the other trades like plumbers, electricians, and the cops and firemen. They all have three luxury cars, at least a couple homes, take lots of vacations, and retire early. They gouge, we pay.

That said, it sounds like you need better repair diagnosis. I have difficulty believing that much of your front end was bad by 80K miles. Struts? Sure. Wheel bearings, maybe. But control arms, strut towers, and 'the suspension' ? Also, THREE alternators? Let me know what brand or remenufacturere, I want to stay away. FWIW, the idler, belt, and exhaust are fairly standard maint on any car.
 
#19 ·
I'm not attacking these cars. But the OP asked about reliability which infers that he might be concerned about future expenses/repairs. I posted stuff that not only I have found to be faulty, but others seem to have the exact same failures. When a do it yourself site shows the same head bolts shearing as mine, and another thread running in this same forum mentions it, it's a good case it's a fault with cheap bolts or design flaw. The 2000+ did have sludge issues due to the many switches made to the engine. Sure, a PCV upgrade should "prevent" it, but if people still have clogged screens, it leaves me skeptical. If you can't do the work yourself, expect to pay your mechanic some money.
 
#20 ·
OP, are you still following your thread, and if so what do you think about the answers to your question? Have we scared you off, or are you still willing to join the family? What are your thoughts on working on the car yourself--are you willing to tackle it? Have you perused the search function here and researched all the known issues (oil sludge for example)?

Lets hear back.
 
#24 ·
You know, not to hijack this fellow's thread (I did ask him to follow up earlier), but it seems to me that we should compile a list of the most common Saab problems, diagnostics and solutions, to refer people to when they post the same "car won't start" or "lost boost" threads every week. Also could serve as a primer for potential buyers like this fellow.

For example, the following could be an entry:

Neutral safety switch/gear selector indicator (automatic 9-3) causing intermittent starter engaging fail (turn key nothing happens--dash lights up, headlights come on, but no starter crank at all). Typically after car has warmed up and is left to sit for only a few minutes, like dashing into a store or the post office. If wait 10 or 20 minutes, will start again like nothing happened.

Diagnostic: observe above symptoms; pour a bottle of chilled water over the switch (located on top of transmission just behind battery tray--with a cable running to it from the firewall), and start. If it starts consistently after this a few times (to rule out coincidence), replace the switch.

This is a really annoying Saab problem and will cause you to tear your hair out in diagnostics if you don't know about it in advance.