Hi, this is what the Haynes book says.

REMOVAL.
1) The thermostat is located on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. First drain the cooling system. If the coolant is relatlively new or in good condition, drain it into a clean container for re-use.

2) Disconnect the coolant level sensor, then pull the coolant expansion tank upwards and move it to one side.

3) Depress the release tab , and disconnect the vacuum servo hose from the pump at the left-hand end of the cylinder head.

4) Undo the 3 retaining bolts and move the thermostat cover to one side.

5) Remove the thermostat. Recover the sealing ring.

REFITTING.

1) Clean the surfaces of the thermostat housing, cover and cylinder head. Smear a little petroleum jelly on the new sealing ring.

2) Locate the sealing ring around the thermostat and refit it into the housing.

3) Refit the thermostat housing and tighten the bolts to the specified torque ( 8 Nm or 6 lbf ft ).

4) The remaining refitting procedure is a reveral of removal, but refill and bleed the cooling system.
;ol;

 

It is pretty easy to get to once you find it. A couple more notes -

If you stand by the drivers side fender and look down, you'll see the housing - in front of the overflow tank, at the end of the cyl. head and underneath a few hoses and wires. I believe it's held in by two 10 mm bolts.

When you take the old one out, pay close attention to which side is up and which side is down .

When you put the new one in, be very careful about not knocking the new seal off. It's easy to do since you need to work your way past the hoses and wires that are in the way.

 

under the housing marked in yellow..;ol;

 

I'm about to do the t-stat on my '04 9-3 linear. I'm assuming that i need to replace the housing gasket in addition to the gasket that comes on the thermostat, correct? Thanks!

 

The thermostat gasket is the housing gasket as well.

 

Right. There is one gasket.

 

I just removed my thermostat from my 2003 Saab 9-3 linear which was pretty simple... I also purchased the coolant temp sensor to replace as well, but I am not seeing where it is on my car. I have searched everywhere online for an image or someone saying where it is... I can not find anything that helps. I see a bolt right below the thermostat housing that looks like it is the same size as the sensor... I hope the last owner didn't just plug this up with a bolt.. Anyone with an image or actual location for this sensor would do me wonders. Thanks

 

under the black cover left hand side..(purple square),if you were getting P0116,that code appears when the stat fails in the open position thus overcooling the engine..

 

In addition to aerojon's post this is from the WIS:

https://app.box.com/s/kg6112zhciovaya7thnzhhloabm7u4iu

 

Wow you guys are fast. This is my first saab and I want to try to fix it up without spending a fortune at the mechanic. I guess I got the wrong part. I ordered this http://www.autozone.com/1/products/482917-coolant-temperature-sensor-bosch-0280130094.html is this a different sensor as well.

 

Sensor looks correct. What I posted shows location and harness plug that attaches to sensor.

 

Thanks, the install went well. This saab community is awesome.

 

guage issue

I am wondering if I am having a thermostat/sensor issue. I noticed yesterday that the coolant temp needle is at the third hash mark (the one above the half way point which is where it usually sits) during normal driving conditions and that when I start the vehicle and the engine is cold, the needle is at the first hash mark (the one just below the mid point), not all the way at the bottom of the guage.

Does this sound like the temp sensor? I have an 06 9-3 ragtop with the 2.0t engine.

 

if you're saying the needle isn't dropping to the bottom of the gauge when the fob is removed,the cluster is going hinky,remove the negative off the battery for 5 mins allowing the systems to reset.If it happens again another cluster will be needed..

 

Omg thank u so much I actually have code p0116 as well and everyone thought I was crazy I been feeling like mine has been stuck open. Could that be the reason for my temp to drop when I'm on the freeway or going faster? Also could it be the reason I got codes p0606 and p0638

 

Avguy thank u I'm fomna be changing that as well

 

I tried replacing my thermostat since I bought a new one and I feel like that’s the cause for me. I didn’t release anything, I just got into unscrewing 2 of the 3 10mm bolts. The 3rd one which was the hardest to get, I could not get out, my 10mm would go just over it and 9mm was too small. Is it pressure built up since I didn’t release any fluid or is it stripped, or do I need a special wrench. Please help, thank u. I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0t

 

Sounds like you may have rounded the bolt head. Are you already using a 6 point socket? If you are approaching the bolt head at a slight angle it might be good to get a wobble head extension or universal swivel so the socket is flush to the bolt.
A trick that might work: tap a 9mm 12 point socket on the stripped bolt head - don't go crazy if the thermostat housing is plastic.
If you have already significantly rounded the bolt head you may need to buy a bolt extractor set. A metric set is ideal, but if you try an english set the 3/8 might work (a bit smaller compared to 10mm).

 

Okay thanks. So I decided to call a local mechanic located at Rocks Automotive where I’m around in upstate New York and he said since I have the part, the total repair cost will be around $250. That’s crazy! He said, it’ll be 2 hours of labor(charging $98/hour), plus new coolant(he said $10-$15), and a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor($20-$30) because I explained the code I got which said Engine Coolant Temperate Sensor Range 1 or something like that. And he said after taxes it’s arouns $250. Is that overpriced?! He’s what started the problem. About a month ago my CEL came on, I scanned for a code and I got a P0 something and it said something like Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Range 1. Then a few days later my check engine light went off so I thought nothing of it. About it week ago, it came back on so my immediate thought was the thermostat. I bought a new thermostat and I was going to attempt to chnage it. Not having the right equipment or knowledge. Anyways, I unscrewed two of the 3 bolts and when I realized I couldn’t get the 3rd bolt out, I put everything back together and started my car and the CEL was off again.

 

A bad thermostat won't usually trigger a CEL, it sounds more like your temp sensor is shot. Replacing it is very easy. It's in the purple box in the image above. Just leave the thermostat alone as long as you tightened everything back up again.

An intermittent CEL for a failing sensor would not be unheard of. As the sensor starts to drift it is giving outputs right on the edge of the "acceptable" range. At some point it will exceed those limits, and you'll have a permanent CEL until it is replaced.

 

Okay thanks! I hope I get this fixed soon

 

Can you explain how I replace the sensor step by step? Can anyone replace it even if they don’t have much prior knowledge of cars?

 

A bad stat(stuck open thus overcooling the engine) will trigger a P0116 code...

 

The P0116 criteria indicates that the temperature sensor sees too high or too low a temperature after the car has been driven for 8-10 minutes. If the temp sensor is good (and cooling system has no leaks or compromises) then the fix is always a new thermostat. If this is your only code then thermostat is definitely the right first step.

I have also seen a P0116 return after replacing a thermostat with non-OEM part. A new OEM thermostat cured the problem.

It could be a bad sensor. The sensor screws into the engine at a place where the end of it is in coolant. To remove it just unplug the connector. Then unscrew it from the engine with a deep socket or an open end wrench (if you have access).

To test the sensor outside the car: The sensor is an NTC thermister. The ECU sends a 5 volt reference, and as the sensor resistance changes with temperature the ECU measures voltage drop. You could just measure resistance directly from the 2 connectors with the sensor in water. Heat the water from room temp to boiling. The expected resistance at various temperatures is in the WIS.

 

Sounds like a lot of work for a $10 part.

Simple job.

 

Hi, I just replaced my thermostat. Do I need to turn the thermostat or just put it there and use the housing to seal it? I was turning the thermostat so long and wonder why it didn't loose, then realized the housing is on the edge of thermostat. I see some people can move the housing on the side, and mine barely move.

My coolant temperature around 176 and little below the half way mark some time. Did I do it wrong?

To remove the third bolt is not hard at all, but I have no way to clean the surface of the housing, unless remove those hose.

 

Did you ever figure out if it was normal for the temperature to be at 176 and drop slightly below when driving? Mine is exactly the same after fitting an OE tstat..

 

I found this write up from FCP Euro parts. It cleared out my question.

How to Replace a Thermostat on a Saab 9-3

It’s generally a good idea to replace your car’s thermostat as preventative maintenance with every major service interval. They are a critical part of your car’s ability to regulate it’s own temperature based on how hard your engine is working at any given time and fluctuating environmental...

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