OK. Given that there are lots of postings about clutches and people seem to have all sorts of hassle with them, here is my way of doing a complete clutch R&R, along with the slave cylinder, without using any special tools other than a crowbar and something to put in the splines once the pressure plate is compressed. This method worked on a 1983 99 and I've just done it on a 1989 16v 900, non turbo all by myself this weekend. If your clutch is so worn that even with someone else pressing down on the pedal you can't get enough clearance to put a spacer ring in, read on...
Once you have got to the exposed clutch mechanism take all 6 clutch plate bolts out of the flywheel/pressure plate. You need to have 3 bolts of the same thread but about twice as long, as well as one 13mm nut for each bolt. Put the crowbar inbetween the pressure plate and the flywheel and pry the plate away from the flywheel. Through one of the clutch bolt holes pass one of the longer bolts and thread a nut on the other side, so the nut is between the plate and flywheel. Thread the bolt into the flywheel. Rotate the flywheel 60 degrees and do the same again and then repeat once more. Once the three long bolts are in their threads put a 13mm spanner on the nuts and gradually wind the nuts up the bolts, towards the heads. You should see the pressure plate splines start to move as they press agaisnt the release bearing. Keep on doing this until you have enough spline gap to get a spacer ring in. By the time you have done this you should also have enough gap to get the friction plate out once you have removed the three long bolts and nuts.
To remove the pressure plate and friction plate you need to unclip the handle clip near the radiator and remove the sealing plate and unscrew the plastic spinner. In the spinner thread put a clutch bolt. Use the crowbar to unstick the spigot shaft and move it forwards, towards but not into
the radiator. Now you can remove the friction plate. 5mm allen key is needed for the slave bolts which is a real pain :evil: but you need to get the slave out of the way to get the pressure plate out. I found the slave and pressure plate came out together.
Once all the bits are out remove the spacer from the old pressure plate, take the old release bearing, a large socket, block of wood and trolley jack. Jack the car up and place new pressure plate under car, release bearing on splines, socket on bearing, block of wood on socket. Now lower the car onto the wooden block. The splines should depress and you should be able to get the spacer in.
To put the new clutch in is the reverse of removal :wink: It is a fiddle, but filling the slave up with clutch fluid before fitting helps bleed it. For the cost of a new slave and the hassle to do all this work again just to replace it in the future, I say do it now, all in one go.
FWIW I used a Luk kit from Euro Car Parts. It came with pressure plate, friction plate, release bearing and spacer ring :cheesy: and works fine. Cost £65 + VAT, Part No.641880010. Slave was £30 + VAT, Part No.137880011. Total:£116, with free delivery.
If anyone has any comments please let me know. This method does work.
Fraser
Once you have got to the exposed clutch mechanism take all 6 clutch plate bolts out of the flywheel/pressure plate. You need to have 3 bolts of the same thread but about twice as long, as well as one 13mm nut for each bolt. Put the crowbar inbetween the pressure plate and the flywheel and pry the plate away from the flywheel. Through one of the clutch bolt holes pass one of the longer bolts and thread a nut on the other side, so the nut is between the plate and flywheel. Thread the bolt into the flywheel. Rotate the flywheel 60 degrees and do the same again and then repeat once more. Once the three long bolts are in their threads put a 13mm spanner on the nuts and gradually wind the nuts up the bolts, towards the heads. You should see the pressure plate splines start to move as they press agaisnt the release bearing. Keep on doing this until you have enough spline gap to get a spacer ring in. By the time you have done this you should also have enough gap to get the friction plate out once you have removed the three long bolts and nuts.
To remove the pressure plate and friction plate you need to unclip the handle clip near the radiator and remove the sealing plate and unscrew the plastic spinner. In the spinner thread put a clutch bolt. Use the crowbar to unstick the spigot shaft and move it forwards, towards but not into
the radiator. Now you can remove the friction plate. 5mm allen key is needed for the slave bolts which is a real pain :evil: but you need to get the slave out of the way to get the pressure plate out. I found the slave and pressure plate came out together.Once all the bits are out remove the spacer from the old pressure plate, take the old release bearing, a large socket, block of wood and trolley jack. Jack the car up and place new pressure plate under car, release bearing on splines, socket on bearing, block of wood on socket. Now lower the car onto the wooden block. The splines should depress and you should be able to get the spacer in.
To put the new clutch in is the reverse of removal :wink: It is a fiddle, but filling the slave up with clutch fluid before fitting helps bleed it. For the cost of a new slave and the hassle to do all this work again just to replace it in the future, I say do it now, all in one go.
FWIW I used a Luk kit from Euro Car Parts. It came with pressure plate, friction plate, release bearing and spacer ring :cheesy: and works fine. Cost £65 + VAT, Part No.641880010. Slave was £30 + VAT, Part No.137880011. Total:£116, with free delivery.
If anyone has any comments please let me know. This method does work.
Fraser
