Help! Took car to shop because of lost power. Shop said cylinder #4 was misfiring, wire,coil & spark plugs good & no vacuum leaks.
Put used fuel injector & new water pump on.
Returned car because 1 huge white smoke coming out of tailpipe even after I put injector cleaner in as they asked me to do 2 still having issues with starting car- turn key 3-4 times b4 it starts 3 puddle antifreeze at front of car.
NEVER had above problems until car was returned to me.
They said pressure regulator vacuum hose was torn & antifreeze leak was coming from cylinder head coolant hose & that they would replace the head gasket & hose.
I asked them to explain why all this happened after they worked on car. Reply was work they did gave it more power causing my old hose (2008) to split-don't remember reason behind new head gasket-I was in shock! Picked car up without them working on it.
Car in my garage until I figure out what to do.
You're very well thought of on this board, and you're from New England. I live in Western Massachusetts, (Springfield), and found a transmission for my car in Warham. It's coming out out a '92 convertible that was in an accident, and I'm paying $250 for it. I have a very good transmission guy that is going to do the work for me very inexpensively.
My question is whether to rebuilt the transmission before I put it in. Not knowing much about the inside of an engine, can any transmission guy find the parts to rebuild if necessary?? Is there someone here in this part of the world you would recommend who can rebuild a Saab Tranny??
I love my car. The body was just reconditioned to showroom conditioned, so I'm very motivated about the car.
And of course what do you think it will cost to rebuild the transmission I found in Warham??
Hi, I appreciate your help with my 1987 Saab 900 project in the workshop forum. You mentioned you may have a working main fuel pump from an '86 900; would you have interesting in selling the fuel pump if it works?
thanks again, JasonNifong
Thanks, Jim. I've been working with a knowledgeable pro in the area. He probably does most of the Saabs around here and has been doing so for many years. Best I can tell he seems to know his stuff but when he got stumped I thought I would check to see if another knowledgeable pro might have a different insight into the problem. The most recent DI casette I put on seems to have eliminated the stalling out issue, but still too early to tell. Next possibility is switching out the ECU?!? What do you think? Thanks, M
I prefer to answer questions in the Forum rather than maintain a private advice board. Please post you concerns there.
Extreme rich conditions are caused by:
A massive vacuum leak
Fuel Pressure Regulator leaking fuel through the vacuum hose
A bad Air Mass Meter
A bad ECU
A bad NTC Resistor
Or a bad connection at any of those plugs.
Jim, You posted on my question the other day suggesting the issue could be the fuel pressure regulator. what I discovered:
Pulled the car out and ran it for about 5 min. Shut it off and checked the vacuum lines. Replaced a couple of them that looked bad. When I pulled off the fuel pressure regulator I noticed fuel in the nipple, but didn't see any in the vacuum line. Replaced the line, started the car a couple of times, pulled the vacuum again, but no fuel in the vacuum, and didn't see any in the nipple. Put a vacuum line on the car running and tried sucking on it to see if it would change the performance of the motor, but no affect. Is my regulator bad???
I also noticed the oil had fuel in it. Going to change it right away. If I replace the fuel reg. would this fix the fuel dumping issue? If not, what else could be the prob. idle is still going up an down almost stalling. Some have suggested that it could be the AIC needs cleaning could this be the case?
Hi, need a bit of help lol.
you answered my thread about prob with engine and suggested 5-30 oil, (low compression).
I have put an add on ebay want it now for an engine/autobox car. danmaged or?? and a gentleman has been in touch who has a 60k 'H' reg 1990? car but it's only an injection not an lpt, I have no prob with that as could change the head, but being as it's going on an LPT and the wife does'nt push the car at all, would it be ok to keep the higher compression head on the LPT. I know it's suggested to change for FPT but wondered if necccessary for an 900i engine, and are the primaries all the same on auto's
thank you in anticipation & appreciation
Hello Jim I am sorry to bother you again. I posted a message and no one has replied yet. i am trying to get the ball rolling. I am stumped. I put in a brand new rear engine seal behind the flywheel. When i put eveything back together, i drove it, but the car drips oil like crazy. Any options? i sealed the 3 bolts on the slave, and also the bolts on the fly wheel as well. I appreciate any help, michael
i appreciate your help. one more question. Can i use any 10W-30 motor oil in my manual tranny? my car is a 1991 saab 900 16V non-turbo. My bentley manual mention differant grades of 10W-30 that I can'not find around my local auto shops. SL/ SF/ etc.
hi jim, i have one question. on my passenger side inner driver cup, i can'not seem to get this cup out. it wiggles slightly, but will not slip out at all. any suggestions? Also, any other advice on replacing this cup? i got a really good used one. thank you , mike