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"HOW TO" replace EVAP Purge Valve on 2.8T V6

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#61 ·
:eek: I'm glad I havent placed my order yet; I guess AC Delco pics are on the ball. Thanks for the word of caution.. I'll try the Amazon part in the coming weeks and let you all know how it turns out
 
#63 · (Edited)
Agh! Purge Valve # right?

Help!
reading the great thread on this but ordered and got the AC Delco-boxed version of the purge valve...last three on the Bosch part # are 801...not 802...will this work? number ordered was the 121-593-761...came in the AC Delco box re-stickered with:
12-593-761/71
214-1685
Purge Valve
11012B23

original box sticker says:
214-1685
GM # 12611801 Germany

like i said...i received a boxch 12611801...getting ready to swap this in an hour and now not sure if it's the right one.
2.8 V6 Aero SC 2007
Brian
 
#64 ·
AFCaptBrian said:
Help!
reading the great thread on this but ordered and got the AC Delco-boxed version of the purge valve...last three on the Bosch part # are 801...not 802...will this work? number ordered was the 121-593-761...came in the AC Delco box re-stickered with:
12-593-761/71
214-1685
Purge Valve
11012B23

original box sticker says:
214-1685
GM # 12611801 Germany

like i said...i received a boxch 12611801...getting ready to swap this in an hour and now not sure if it's the right one.
2.8 V6 Aero SC 2007
Brian
Click to expand...
If you're talking about the one that came with that metal bracket, its fine. Just remove the bracket and you have yourself a proper working purge valve.
 
#66 ·
serious problems taking off the right (when looking at engine from front) purge valve line...no blue button like the other side to depress...is it a twisty of is there something i need to pry out?...anyone??? Making me feel like an idiot. I'm being a little ginger with everything anyway because it's llike 40 degrees and everything's brittle. I don't want to break anything.
 
#68 ·
Need to replace this but don't know what it is....

Thanks all. While changing the rear spark plugs and removing the Evap canister valve and associated tubing the nipple on the part in question broke off. I need to replace this part but don't know what it is called.
 
#69 ·
Aleki said:
If you're talking about the one that came with that metal bracket, its fine. Just remove the bracket and you have yourself a proper working purge valve.
Click to expand...
So just to confirm the GM Part number to order is 12611801.

This part was for the Caddy V6 and has the metal bracket but can easily be removed. Once the bracket is removed does it mount the same as the Saab part?

Thanks and great information
 
#70 ·
Kewinpa said:
Thanks all. While changing the rear spark plugs and removing the Evap canister valve and associated tubing the nipple on the part in question broke off. I need to replace this part but don't know what it is called.

View attachment 34095
Click to expand...
I just broke the same thing, the piece that attaches to the engine and has one nipple and one valve branching off, anyone got a part number?
Doesn't seem to do anything other than kill the SID readouts for DTE and Fuel Econ.
 
#72 · (Edited)
Aspen said:
I just broke the same thing, the piece that attaches to the engine and has one nipple and one valve branching off, anyone got a part number?
Doesn't seem to do anything other than kill the SID readouts for DTE and Fuel Econ.
Click to expand...
To answer my own question, the part is 55556698 for the vacuum brake booster valve that is on the driver side of the air plenum. Don't break it because it is $144Cdn and a Saab only part. (note: this is not the EVAP valve discussed above)

edit: I just googled the part # and it IS a GM part for a mere $49. Same part number. My dealer got it wrong on this one and I just wasted $100.
 
#74 ·
SoCalHarley said:
So just to confirm the GM Part number to order is 12611801.

This part was for the Caddy V6 and has the metal bracket but can easily be removed. Once the bracket is removed does it mount the same as the Saab part?

Thanks and great information
Click to expand...
Replaced the valve. Make sure you remove the whole bracket that the valve mounts to. Trying to get the valve on to the bracket while it is on the car was impossible. Once I removed the bracket it took 5 minutes. No more CEL.
 
#78 ·
This is a very common part and is still used on many new GM cars today. You can get them at rockauto for $20 which is what I did and its been fine for over a year. Since this part is so cheap to buy I would suggest you replace it whenever you are changing spark plugs or rear coils on the V6 since its such a pain to get in there and you have to remove it anyway to get to the plugs.
 
#79 · (Edited)
Hello All,

I successfully changed my purge valve thanks to Ferms. I used the part from EEuroParts, but it turns out it was the same part as the GM one, bracket and all. It does come with a year warranty though.

One tip I would give is to actually remove the bracket in step 8. It is not necessary, but makes removing the hose with the black connector and swapping the valves much easier. Here are some picks of the bracket with new valve:

Image


Image


Thanks everyone!
 
#80 ·
Brake boost check valve

Just thought it worthwhile to post this current link to a replacement brake booster vacuum check valve line as there has been discussion about this part as well (Step 5 in removal of EVAP Purge Valve). Appears some people just buy a generic check valve and replacing the OEM one. Others cite the need to replace the entire assembly as the rubber line gets hard and cracks as well;

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/338...com/Parts/33808/Brake-Booster-Vacuum-Hose-w-Check-Valve-12847287/#axzz32CO3qbzB
 
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