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Discussion Starter #1
Mods can this be stickied Please!!!!!! In the "How To" section ofcourse!

I went ahead and took pictures while I replaced the EVAP purge Valve solenoid last night. I figured since I haven't been the only one to do this repair I might as well make a "How To."

First off, the reason I replaced the EVAP Purge valve is because my car threw a P0496 Code. There was some talk about this in this recent thread: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123758&highlight=evap+purge . I posted some WIS instructions and a fellow SaabCentral Member did the repair and I finally ordered my part and followed suit.

The Purge Valve is listed as Part # 12593761 and the part that arrived at my house was a Bosch unit with #12611802 printed on it. YERASIMOS also had that experience in the aforementioned thread.

Tools needed:
-Fingers
-10mm Socket

Once I finished my Check engine light immediately disapeared. Others had the same experience.

Good Luck, and Remember: (*lame disclaimer*) This is a demonstration of my experiences and I cannot be held responsible for any problems or issues that arise if you attempt the repair.

Anyway, Now on to the How To part. I will post the WIS instructions and the Pictures that I took.




Now some pictures from my experience.

Part:





Step1. Remove the Upper Engine Cover

-Take the Oil fill cap off and the pull up on the Black plastic cover.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Step 2. Unplug the upper connector of the engine control module

-Push in the Black tab and then pull the metal lever across.





Step 3. Unplug the 7-pin connector

-Just pull the black tab over the clip and it will release. I was afraid to break it, but I didn't. I also removed the plug just above it.



Step 4. Remove the Nut and set cable-duct aside

-10mm socket



Step 5. Detach the brake vacuum hose from the intake manifold

-Just push in the little grey button and pull it off.



Step 6. Remove the bracket holding the crankcase ventilation pipes to the intake manifold (I removed the bolts, but never actually removed the bracket as it wasn't actually needed.

Step 7. Unplug the connector from the EVAP canister purge valve

Step 8. Detach the hoses from the valve (the on with the blue button is easy. The Black on is a little more difficult. There is a small tab that you need to rotate as you pull the hose off. You can practice on the vacuum hose that is close the the MAF right by the radiator. It looks exactly the same)

Step 9. Lift up on the bracket with the valve and detach the pipe (Again, didn't remove the bracket)

Step 10. Remove the valve from the bracket (Just simply wiggle it back and forth until it comes off.



To fit: Do everything in reverse. Pretty self explanatory.

BTW, when I reconnected the ECM Connector, the ECM made some crazy noises, But everything started up just fine.

 

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OK so what does this valve do? And what exactly was the code description?

How many miles do you have on the V6?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Code was P0496 and the code reader said "EVAP Emission High Purge Flow Fault". WIS says "Fault Criteria: Although the purge valve is closed, the tank pressure continues to fall. When the pressure has reached -1000 Pa in 4 s, a DTC is set.

I have almost 63K miles on my 93.I guess its not a big deal part, but I hate having the CEL on.

Basically, the EVAP canister collects gas vapors from the gas tank. It is a charcol canister and filters out hydrocarbons and then the purge valve cycles the left over vapors into the engine to burn off.

Or I'll let the WIS do the describing for me.



..
 

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OK. Thanks for explaining.

I guess that is the same valve on the front of the 2.0 that can cause the CEL to come on. I think it was an "evaporative emissions leak" or something like that.
 

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Hi all. New to the forums and just started having this same problem. Might I ask where you ordered the purge valve from?
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Ordered mine from www.saabparts.net click on the "oem parts catalog" at the top.
Alright thanks. I got the same code that you and several others got and this seemed to fix the problem for you. Is this definitely the only thing that can be wrong if you get CEL P0496? Or do you think it would be safer to just get a smoke/emissions test to make sure before buying the part?
 

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EVAP Purge Valve Replacement Issue on 06 9-3 AERO

So I had the code, bought the part and the install was going fine (I would say this was an excellent write up as the actual part install was easy).

However, when I went to pull the brake vacuum hose off. The little gray button gave me no problems, but the check valve nipple on the gray button side decided to break. By the way it happened, it was possible it was cracked already from previous work done or something. I just bought this car for my fiancee last year. I am wondering what the best thing to do is. I know I need the check valve in there, but it has a broken nipple. The break occurred right at the base. I live 2 hours from one SAAB dealer and 2 1/2 hours from another. So, it isn't feasable to take it in there. People in my area dont even know how to spell SAAB if you asked them. I was thinking about cutting the broke nipple and gray button loose from the hose. I hate to do it, but I am thinking about gluing the nipple back on the check valve. Use a new hose to connect the check valve to the gray button. Plug it in and see if it holds. This would only be a temporary fix, but I want to get feedback if anyone thinks this would actually hold up.

Also, does anyone know the part number for the brake vacuum hose or at least the check valve? I found a general use check valve at the parts store, but it has a very small opening on one side. I would prefer using the factory part.
 

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i found this broken on my car when i did spark plugs.

it never gave me a check engine light while it was broken.

do yourself a favor and go get some jb weld and glue it back together. it worked for me and has been about a year now and the thing is better than new.

problem is that the thing comes to an elbow and due to stress on it, its going to crack or snap eventually. plus the heat on that engine is no help.

you can replace it, but the jb weld did the trick for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My check valve is also cracked in the same place as you guys. I just placed it backed together and put a little electrical tape around it to hold it in place. I asked on here for a part number but never really got an answer. I just need to go to the dealership and look at their diagrams for a number.

FYI that check valve is for the brake booster. If it is not connected it will cause a loss of brake feel, only on startup, as far as I know. You have probably read about people loosing brake feel in reverse after start up and I believe this check valve is one of the contributing factors to that.

I was having that brake problem and ever since I taped the hose back on to the check valve, I have NOT had the loss of brake feel.

If any of you figure out the part number, please post.
 

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With the engine running, purge valves can typically be felt "clicking" as they do their thing. The ones in earlier cars could almost always be coaxed back to life with a shot of WD40 in the tube and a couple of light wacks. Worth a try before investing a $100 for a new one?
 

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the engine's heat is going to melt that electrical tape off.

i would suggest finding something more durable like the jb weld or another plastic adhesive.
 

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Hey Ferms, thanks a lot for the instructions. I successfully installed the purge valve myself with them and the light went off.
 

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According to the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) it is the same part number 12593761 for the 2006-2010 B284 engines - dealer list price $100... Ron
 
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