[Rubikssolver4]

In case anyone wants pics of the arms in the subframe assembly, here yah go.
I ended up repainting the subframe and anti roll bar cause I saw a little rust. Plus it looks pretty cool. It's got powerflex stanchion arm inner bushings and Taliaferro arb bushings.

I'll be installing it tonight or tomorrow. Also got the Taliaferro engine mounts (hard) and an ebay copper ceramic clutch so there will be very little flex between the crankshaft and the wheels .

 

[Jeremy R.]

Very interesting! I was under the impression that they also included a replacement for the stanchion arms, but obviously not. With all of the adjustments that can be made, I'm assuming that the car will need an alignment after installation? What kind of bushing does it use to connect the stanchion arm to the control arm, or is it a rigid connection? It seems like there doesn't need to be any flex there, since the Vauxhall that shared the same platform had a one-piece control arm.

 

[Rubikssolver4]

With all of the adjustments that can be made, I'm assuming that the car will need an alignment after installation?

Yep, alignment is recommended. I'm not super familiar with suspension geometry design, but I've watched a few youtube videos. I guess lowering the car changes the roll center and camber angle. So the adjustment is useful. I'm not sure what the control arms are set to when they ship from Taliaferro. Do alignment shops do camber adjustment as well?

What kind of bushing does it use to connect the stanchion arm to the control arm, or is it a rigid connection?

It is rigid. There are two aluminum spacers between the two arms (probably to reduce the size of the aluminum stock they mill). In the pic I haven't tightened the bolts, which are of course larger than stock.

 

[jvanabra]

That looks really fantastic.... I wouldn't have thought painting the subframe useful, but it looks really nice!

You may have to find a "specialist" alignment shop... usually a computer says "set this to X" but you have new adjustment that previously didn't exist. A lot of chain technicians won't touch things that don't match up with the computer. You'll have to figure out where you want camber to be.... and I'm thinking that adjusting camber will have an affect on caster, too, since fixed stanchion arm will move the steering knuckle around a bit as the LCA gets shorter or longer. Maybe not enough to matter though.... Surely Nick has some recommendations for initial settings?

 

[jvanabra]

I cannot get over how great that looks!!!

 

[BobSaabit]

The factory specs have a camber dimension, it's just not adjustable. I'd get a lifetime alignment so you can play with it as needed. Have you shimmed the rear hubs for camber? Makes a big difference. If you are doing all that to the front, shim the rear to -1.1 negative.

 

[ChattySaaby]

Rubik, my 02 9-3 front suspension is only ~60k mi old and now clunking (again). I'm now researching parts that would maximum the front suspension durability.. Would you recommend these Genuiesaab Machined Control Arms What else would you do to maximize durability?

 

[Rubikssolver4]

Is it the front or rear arm that is the source of the clunk? The machined control arm kit is just replacing the front arm. The rear one still uses the stock bushing to mount to the subframe, unless you go the powerflex route like I did.

I can't really advise whether you should go for these or not, I'll just state my experience so far:

I haven't put a ton of miles on the setup so far, probably under 1-2k, since I've been chasing engine issues since summer. But it works well, feels very stiff and responsive, but I have also done a lot of other suspension mods. The main attraction is that you won't have to replace the whole arm just to replace the ball joint. It's basically a drop in replacement of the stock front arm, except you need to run 16"+ wheels and you need to lubricate the ball joint with a grease gun.

I'm happy with the purchase, but again you can't run the 15" wheels which most of the 900s/9-3s came with.

 

[AUSSIE900]

Very nice work Rubik , you have inspired me for next time I have a subframe out , I love the idea of the serviceable ball joints with the GS arms . One day .....

 

[ChattySaaby]

My mechanic confirms that it's the rear arm bushings that are gone, not the front arms which had been replaced. And he said they look original.

Does anyone have recommendations for good quality rear arms, and ones to avoid? The Original Saab arms are like ~$270, which is more than URO and other aftermarket brands that go for ~$100-150?

 

[Rubikssolver4]

Depending on labor costs, it might be cheaper to just replace the bushings, p/n 4482402.

 

[BobSaabit]

My mechanic confirms that it's the rear arm bushings that are gone, not the front arms which had been replaced. And he said they look original.

Does anyone have recommendations for good quality rear arms, and ones to avoid? The Original Saab arms are like ~$270, which is more than URO and other aftermarket brands that go for ~$100-150?

Chatty; You're still talking about the front suspension? So you're referring to the stanchion arms as the "rear arms"?

Like @Rubikssolver4 suggested, bushing replacement is the suggestion. The arms themselves don't wear.

Cheapest route is probably the import arms (vs. bushings) if you're paying for labor unless the mechanic is very reasonable and doesn't charge flat-rate. Best durability is the factory parts.

Either way, you should also replace the sleeves (part # 32021742 , only a couple bucks each) and the rear stanchion arms bolts for good measure (#11100011) when you do the job. You can buy the 11100011 bolts from a GM dealer. They are used on other models.

 

[ChattySaaby]

Thanks, guys, I forwarded your suggestion to replace just the rear arm bushing. Yes, I noticed in the online forums that the rear arm is called the stanchion arm.

 

[Saaberachi]

Wow, just when i considered getting them, doubled in price

 

[BobSaabit]

Holy racecar, batman. They were on my list too for a future purchase. Not at $850 though.

 

[Saaberachi]

Yeah they're not worth that to me

 

[newtosaab1996]

sucks wanted to get those for $375

 

[Jim K in PA]

 

[BobSaabit]

My thoughts are that either the price of the raw materials and parts skyrocketed to incredible levels (seems unlikely); the cost of running the CNC machine skyrocketed (seems unlikely); or not many people were ordering them and most of those that were seemed like "racers" so they figured they could double the price and those people would still pay.

My bet is mostly on the third option.

 

[Mort]

Exchange rates and credit/insurance are other possible variables.
Shipping is still high.
Insurance here has gone through the roof. The US, like Australia, still has some inflation issues.
Nick might be investing in other items for us (SAAB) as well as the other lines he seems to support.
Let's hope strut mounts and engine mounts for non-track use get a look in.