I shall soon replace the cranshaft pulley on my '92 2.1 NA 900. I shall replace the pulley oil seal and "O" ring. Is it easier to remove the crank sensor from the oil pump casting before removal or to disconnect the crank sensor lead and leave the crank sensor on the oil pump when removing it from the engine. Leaving the crank sensor on the oil pump and threading the sensor lead out of the engine bay is my preferred approach, but has anyone done this? Is it easy, difficult, or not possible? Thanks for sharing your experience on this question.
bobsverts
+1 on the above.
Just did the exact same task myself last month on the vert. Car is 18/19 years old with only 80,000k on the dial..........I changed the crank sensor with a new one while it was all out (along with alternator bushes etc.....)
...............see, the thing is.......I don't want to have to return the area again for a few more years - so I change what I know will fail in the future, "now" to improve the future proofing so to speak.
That or as the regressive school of thought is.......get a new distributor from a turbo...........
Just did the exact same task myself last month on the vert. Car is 18/19 years old with only 80,000k on the dial..........I changed the crank sensor with a new one while it was all out (along with alternator bushes etc.....)
...............see, the thing is.......I don't want to have to return the area again for a few more years - so I change what I know will fail in the future, "now" to improve the future proofing so to speak.
That or as the regressive school of thought is.......get a new distributor from a turbo...........
exuse my ignorance.. maybe this should go in the stupid questions post.
The pully lyou are replacing looks like this right -> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Saab-900-Crankshaft-Pulley-89-93-Non-Turbo-16V-/150609274270
Looks pretty solid, how often do these need replacing and what makes you beleive yours is worn?
The pully lyou are replacing looks like this right -> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Saab-900-Crankshaft-Pulley-89-93-Non-Turbo-16V-/150609274270
Looks pretty solid, how often do these need replacing and what makes you beleive yours is worn?
Thats the pulley ...
As well a pulley they function as a *harmonic balancer* on the crank ...
As such the Pulley is 2 pieces joined by a moulded (rubber or silmilar ) strip in the centre . This ages , detiorates from oil etc .. and begins to delaminate . they can start to run out of true and physically seperate ...
Early Indications .. Belts being visible out of tru on rotation , Screeching sound from pulley area ......
Later Indications... Metallic grinding sounding
Final indications ... Oil on the ground because the outer flange has ground a hole in your Oil pump ...
As well a pulley they function as a *harmonic balancer* on the crank ...
As such the Pulley is 2 pieces joined by a moulded (rubber or silmilar ) strip in the centre . This ages , detiorates from oil etc .. and begins to delaminate . they can start to run out of true and physically seperate ...
Early Indications .. Belts being visible out of tru on rotation , Screeching sound from pulley area ......
Later Indications... Metallic grinding sounding
Final indications ... Oil on the ground because the outer flange has ground a hole in your Oil pump ...
Help!
Like an idiot, I read this about 3 weeks before the job (crank pully replacement) and then didn't read it immediately before the job. I didn't realize there were two screws holding in the crank sensor ('92 2.1 NA) and i only removed the visible one (WTF WERE THEY THINKING... WTF was I thinking...) so when I popped the sensor off (I assumed it was a bit stuck, just like everything else...) it broke off the mount for the other side of the sensor. When I reassembled it, everything felt nice and snug so I went ahead and put everything else back together.
Car won't start now. NO attempt at starting whatsoever.
I'm thinking it's probably the sensor. Car ran fine before the job.
Could my little flub up really cause this problem? I mean, the single bolt seemed to hold it in place really well. Maybe I really messed up ;oops: :nono;
I understand there is a way to convert this newer ridiculous crank mounted hall sensor setup to the much easier to repair distributor mounted hall sensor setup.
Which method would you recommend? Can I do that with this car? Should I just hunt out a new crank sensor and do the whole damn job all over again?
Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated....
Like an idiot, I read this about 3 weeks before the job (crank pully replacement) and then didn't read it immediately before the job. I didn't realize there were two screws holding in the crank sensor ('92 2.1 NA) and i only removed the visible one (WTF WERE THEY THINKING... WTF was I thinking...) so when I popped the sensor off (I assumed it was a bit stuck, just like everything else...) it broke off the mount for the other side of the sensor. When I reassembled it, everything felt nice and snug so I went ahead and put everything else back together.
Car won't start now. NO attempt at starting whatsoever.
I'm thinking it's probably the sensor. Car ran fine before the job.
Could my little flub up really cause this problem? I mean, the single bolt seemed to hold it in place really well. Maybe I really messed up ;oops: :nono;
I understand there is a way to convert this newer ridiculous crank mounted hall sensor setup to the much easier to repair distributor mounted hall sensor setup.
Which method would you recommend? Can I do that with this car? Should I just hunt out a new crank sensor and do the whole damn job all over again?
Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated....
Yes, the Hall Effect Transmitter must be perfectly placed. It helps the EZK ignition system work at its best, and it's mostly trouble-free.
I'd just fix the mistake, after verifying that that's the problem (spark?). It takes only half the time to do it after you're familiar with the job.
I'd just fix the mistake, after verifying that that's the problem (spark?). It takes only half the time to do it after you're familiar with the job.
How to: Distributor mounted hall sensor conversion.
For academic purposes, I should post my result.
I need to post a HUGE THANKS to skucera: because of him, I was able to get my '92 900s back on the road.
I had read about doing the dizzy-mounted hall sensor conversion, and decided I only had a bit of time to lose but potentially lots of time to gain by trying it out.
Went to a local junkyard and picked up a dizzy off an '88 9000 Turbo, took the hall sensor wiring with it. I marked the dizzy so I could clock it the same way on my car. I also made marks on the cap so I would know how to plug the spark plug wires back in.
I installed the dizzy in my car and clocked it the same way as it was in the 9000, then switched the plug wires over, installing them in the same order as they were on the 9000.
![Image]()
I then found where the factory crank position sensor plugs into the harness -- it's the gray plug just below the throttle connection under the intake manifold. I unplugged it and just stuck the dizzy hall sensor wires in it, going off of skucera's wiring diagram. My wires in the stock plug were different than his, however:
1992 Hall Effect Sensor wire colors:
+ Red
0 Red with green stripe
- Dark Gray
Which I matched up with the colors as outlined in skucera's post, but I never found the colors he referenced. I'm sure we were looking in different places. The colors on the 1988 Hall effect sensor (dizzy mounted) are as follows:
+ Green
0 Brown
- Black
Upon attempting to start the car (i made no other modifications) it was trying to fire but wouldn't catch. I rotated the distributor about 25% clockwise and she fired right up. Using an old style timing light we set timing to about 15 BTDC and she runs awesome. As a more permanent solution, I just plugged the stock hall sensor back in and spliced into those wires, then wrapped the whole thing in black tape:
![Image]()
My dad suggested I go ahead and hook up a vacuum line to the vacuum advance. He says that it will give me better fuel economy through more advance at part throttle, and it won't hurt under full throttle cuz there's no vacuum. Sounds reasonable to me so I'm going to give it a try.
Hope this helps! This was crazy easy, cost me $15 for the dizzy at a local junkyard, and most importantly... Didn't require my doing the entire damn job of renewing the crank pulley all over again :nono;
For academic purposes, I should post my result.
I need to post a HUGE THANKS to skucera: because of him, I was able to get my '92 900s back on the road.
I had read about doing the dizzy-mounted hall sensor conversion, and decided I only had a bit of time to lose but potentially lots of time to gain by trying it out.
Went to a local junkyard and picked up a dizzy off an '88 9000 Turbo, took the hall sensor wiring with it. I marked the dizzy so I could clock it the same way on my car. I also made marks on the cap so I would know how to plug the spark plug wires back in.
I installed the dizzy in my car and clocked it the same way as it was in the 9000, then switched the plug wires over, installing them in the same order as they were on the 9000.
I then found where the factory crank position sensor plugs into the harness -- it's the gray plug just below the throttle connection under the intake manifold. I unplugged it and just stuck the dizzy hall sensor wires in it, going off of skucera's wiring diagram. My wires in the stock plug were different than his, however:
1992 Hall Effect Sensor wire colors:
+ Red
0 Red with green stripe
- Dark Gray
Which I matched up with the colors as outlined in skucera's post, but I never found the colors he referenced. I'm sure we were looking in different places. The colors on the 1988 Hall effect sensor (dizzy mounted) are as follows:
+ Green
0 Brown
- Black
Upon attempting to start the car (i made no other modifications) it was trying to fire but wouldn't catch. I rotated the distributor about 25% clockwise and she fired right up. Using an old style timing light we set timing to about 15 BTDC and she runs awesome. As a more permanent solution, I just plugged the stock hall sensor back in and spliced into those wires, then wrapped the whole thing in black tape:
My dad suggested I go ahead and hook up a vacuum line to the vacuum advance. He says that it will give me better fuel economy through more advance at part throttle, and it won't hurt under full throttle cuz there's no vacuum. Sounds reasonable to me so I'm going to give it a try.
Hope this helps! This was crazy easy, cost me $15 for the dizzy at a local junkyard, and most importantly... Didn't require my doing the entire damn job of renewing the crank pulley all over again :nono;
Using the vacuum advance will further degrade the EZK function.
You've already degraded the system by using a cam-mounted sensor instead of a crankshaft mounted sensor. That introduces about 2-3% error on a system that operates at 1/4 degree advance (per individual cylinder) at a time, using the Knock Sensor. Add a vacuum advance and you can degrade the system to 1970s era performance.
Read about how the EZK system works.
You've already degraded the system by using a cam-mounted sensor instead of a crankshaft mounted sensor. That introduces about 2-3% error on a system that operates at 1/4 degree advance (per individual cylinder) at a time, using the Knock Sensor. Add a vacuum advance and you can degrade the system to 1970s era performance.
Read about how the EZK system works.
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