[robhurlburt]

now this code pops up every single time I drive the car. insanely irritating. not sure if its related to my high idle either (900rpm)

 

[Nachosaab93.2.0.t]

Hello Johan. Please could you tell me the part number for the diaphragm?

I first got the P0033 fault code about 6 months ago. I replaced the two solenoids and the problem was gone. Then a few weeks ago the code popped up again. So I decided to change the diaphragm and also do an instruction to give something back to this site because of all the help I’ve got from here. The old diaphragm looked worn with small cracks and holes in the first layers of it. So far the code hasn’t come back and the car seems much smoother now when releasing the throttle abruptly. I’m almost certain this fixed the problem.

So here’s an instruction with some pictures explaining how to change only the diaphragm for the bypass valve on the Garrett GT2052 turbo (the “little t turbo”). I think it’s similar for the Mitsubishi TD04. It took me less than 1.5 hours to do this but that was with great carefulness not to do anything stupid (I do not have much experience with cars). It’s a little bit tricky because of the narrow space. A professional mechanic should have no problem doing this in approximately 45 minutes.

You may want to start by disconnecting the battery to reset the fault code. Then do the following steps:

1. Loosen the hose clamp for the large hose that goes to the air filter and disconnect the connector to the mass air flow sensor right next to it (pull it up and out).

2. Unscrew the 5 torx screws and unhinge the two plastic hinges to remove the whole top of the air filter box.

3. Disconnect the 3 small vacuum hoses (red) to the solenoid (boost pressure control valve). Then disconnect the connector to it by pressing it down and pulling it out (blue). Remove the solenoid by pressing the small plastic piece down (yellow) and slide it out . (I’m not sure if you have to remove all 3 hoses and put the solenoid aside, but I did that to get some more space. At least one of the vacuum hoses needs to be removed).

4. Remove the large hose (that goes from the turbo to the air filter) by now also loosen the second hose clamp located where it connects to the turbo.

5. Carefully remove the bypass valve by unscrewing the 3 bolts. There’s a spring inside it that has some force in it. I would definitely recommend you to put something below the BPV in case you would drop something down the engine bay. I put a big plastic bag below it as you can see in the picture.

6. Replace the diaphragm and assemble it back again. It’s a bit tricky to install it back on the turbo because of the narrow space. I found it easier to install the BPV assembly back by having 2 of the 3 bolts in it at first to not dislocate the gasket and then put back the last one.

7. Put everything else back in the opposite order.

I hope this can help someone.

 

[SAAB_JOEY]

Helpppp

Were any of you able to fix this issue? if so how?

Please help!

-worried saab owner

 

[SAAB_JOEY]

same issue

I first got the P0033 fault code about 6 months ago. I replaced the two solenoids and the problem was gone. Then a few weeks ago the code popped up again. So I decided to change the diaphragm and also do an instruction to give something back to this site because of all the help I’ve got from here. The old diaphragm looked worn with small cracks and holes in the first layers of it. So far the code hasn’t come back and the car seems much smoother now when releasing the throttle abruptly. I’m almost certain this fixed the problem.

So here’s an instruction with some pictures explaining how to change only the diaphragm for the bypass valve on the Garrett GT2052 turbo (the “little t turbo”). I think it’s similar for the Mitsubishi TD04. It took me less than 1.5 hours to do this but that was with great carefulness not to do anything stupid (I do not have much experience with cars). It’s a little bit tricky because of the narrow space. A professional mechanic should have no problem doing this in approximately 45 minutes.

You may want to start by disconnecting the battery to reset the fault code. Then do the following steps:

1. Loosen the hose clamp for the large hose that goes to the air filter and disconnect the connector to the mass air flow sensor right next to it (pull it up and out).

2. Unscrew the 5 torx screws and unhinge the two plastic hinges to remove the whole top of the air filter box.

3. Disconnect the 3 small vacuum hoses (red) to the solenoid (boost pressure control valve). Then disconnect the connector to it by pressing it down and pulling it out (blue). Remove the solenoid by pressing the small plastic piece down (yellow) and slide it out . (I’m not sure if you have to remove all 3 hoses and put the solenoid aside, but I did that to get some more space. At least one of the vacuum hoses needs to be removed).

4. Remove the large hose (that goes from the turbo to the air filter) by now also loosen the second hose clamp located where it connects to the turbo.

5. Carefully remove the bypass valve by unscrewing the 3 bolts. There’s a spring inside it that has some force in it. I would definitely recommend you to put something below the BPV in case you would drop something down the engine bay. I put a big plastic bag below it as you can see in the picture.

6. Replace the diaphragm and assemble it back again. It’s a bit tricky to install it back on the turbo because of the narrow space. I found it easier to install the BPV assembly back by having 2 of the 3 bolts in it at first to not dislocate the gasket and then put back the last one.

7. Put everything else back in the opposite order.

I hope this can help someone.

I'm have the same damn issue with my saab, its a 2004 9-3 linear. do you think i'd be able to get away with just cleaning the assembly?

 

[mantas]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saab-93-03-...-05-Sport-Sedan-Turbo-Bypass-Valve-Repair-Diaphragm-repl-55558271-/281806467928

 

[ihave2seats]

Be sure to double check ALL the vacuum lines on the turbo. That was my issue.

 

[SAAB_JOEY]

Hey mantas,
did you have the same problem and this solved it?

 

[mantas]

I have the 2.0T so its a different part but I did think my diaphragm was bad but confirmed it was without holes with my mity vac pressure/vacuum pump. You can rent one of these at Oreily's or Autozone (forgot which one) to check it yourself.

http://mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp

As for checking vac lines.....definitely a first step and the easiest way to check the vacuum lines is to just replace them. 10feet of 4mm silicone vacuum line can be had for shipped for less than $10

 

[Artfulkatana]

So I've been having the same issue, bought the replacement solenoids and ordered spark plugs (NGK double platinum, I really wanted to go premium). I decided for s***'s and giggles that I'd go into the bypass valve itself, and behold a pale horse....the diaphragm has a small hole. So I called around, and a temp fix is a little bit of high temp rtv for a small patch. Not unreasonable really. going to order that Forge one as soon as I can, get rid of all this rubber.

 

[dzlsabe]

Replacement diaphragms are $52 on Ebay, also I include two 6mm studs that make this job 15 minutes tops.

Again, testing ANY bypass valve is easily accomplished with a length of vacuum hose and even a human vacuum source. The equivalent of sucking on a soda straw. If it holds vacuum its good.

 

[Artfulkatana]

I did some thinking, and a rubber diaphram can be...modified. I couldn't wait for the part, and I'm just upgrading to the Forge model, but for now I put some RTV (extreme temp, the copper permatex) and let that cure. Reinstalled (after fighting to figure out the alignment of the holes, put an index mark once I figured that out) and ran it. No more flutter that I can hear, just the straight discharge of pressure. So for a temp fix that's holds up, high temp RTV to patch a hole works well. I don't know for how long though. And pro tip for anyone that decides to look into that valve assembly, use a sharpie and mark how it came off. Saves abut 20 minutes of struggling. Don't use a pencil though, you'll have galvanic corrosion in about a year.

 

[pindynagra]

p0033, p1681, p2135, u2103

i changed turbo by pass valve and it turn the engine light on and again half boost. One day its all running fine without engine light on and the other day with engine light on with full boost or sometimes without boost.
I know this p0033 is well discussed code but there are all different procedures to fix. Idk what to do with it.
And sometimes the car is real slow in first gear the rpm goes up but not the speed and slowly it picks the speed and its all ok.
what you think how should i get my car fixed.
thank you

 

[ihave2seats]

Triple check the vaccuum lines connecting to the turbo. I bought all new sensors only to find out a vaccuum line was loose lol.

 

[FreeSaab]

I followed most of the advice here, plugs, vacuum hoses, plug wires, etc. with no luck. It ended up being the solenoid and I splurged for the Forge. No codes since. I still have some vacuum hoses to replace and maybe that will get rid of an annoying engine surge when it's cold and damp. However, the rubber part would probably have worked just as well for half the cost

 

[Artfulkatana]

I followed most of the advice here, plugs, vacuum hoses, plug wires, etc. with no luck. It ended up being the solenoid and I splurged for the Forge. No codes since. I still have some vacuum hoses to replace and maybe that will get rid of an annoying engine surge when it's cold and damp. However, the rubber part would probably have worked just as well for half the cost

What rubber part? The OEM diaphragm is $230 at its cheapest with the Forge at $150

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[FreeSaab]

Sorry, I should be more specific (and more patient when typing on a mobile device). I have an 03 Linear (small t). There is a rebuild kit for the bypass valve on my car with a new diaphram, spring, etc. Apparently the same part was also used on Volvos and the rebuild kit is even cheaper if you get it from a Volvo site. I just like shiny things so I went with the Forge.

 

[Artfulkatana]

Sorry, I should be more specific (and more patient when typing on a mobile device). I have an 03 Linear (small t). There is a rebuild kit for the bypass valve on my car with a new diaphram, spring, etc. Apparently the same part was also used on Volvos and the rebuild kit is even cheaper if you get it from a Volvo site. I just like shiny things so I went with the Forge.

We have the same car then heh.

The Volvo would still rupture over time. The Forge will last almost forever really.

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[FreeSaab]

Very true about the diaphragm. However, mine lasted to 130K miles before an issue. BTW - I was told that the Forge does need to be greased every year or so to retain a smooth action. It wouldn't take much due to the tight tolerances. I have no idea what type of grease - something with high heat tolerance. Also, the center part with the vacuum nipple on the Forge can be rotated without loss of effectiveness so you don't have to worry about other parts interfering with the hose. Some people had posted about this.

 

[Artfulkatana]

Very true about the diaphragm. However, mine lasted to 130K miles before an issue. BTW - I was told that the Forge does need to be greased every year or so to retain a smooth action. It wouldn't take much due to the tight tolerances. I have no idea what type of grease - something with high heat tolerance. Also, the center part with the vacuum nipple on the Forge can be rotated without loss of effectiveness so you don't have to worry about other parts interfering with the hose. Some people had posted about this.

Shouldn't be difficult to find hi temp grease. Maybe even oil since there would be some left over from the PCV.

Huh, I just bought longer hose

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[Diggs]

Actually I think its the other way around. The volvo had a TD04. The garrett kit was expensive.