Im getting an error code as follows-- P0033 Turbo charger bypass valve control circuit. Im trying to find out what the cause and fix for this code is, if anyone has any idea, please let me know.
Scooty814
My saab dealer says to change bypass valve cost 3,5 hours...
I just got price to change the bypass valve 55354158 and they say cost 275 eur..arround 350 dollars to change it, 30 eur the valve plus 3,4 hours to change it.
Additionally they say they say they will change it and later they may need to change something more.
If i do not do it they say I have to pay 1,5 hours cost. That means 90 eur. Apparently they spend that time testing.
Please i need your advice...is it take so long to change that part.
My saab is 93 from 2004 2.0 t 175.
i shoukd decide today...and i do not believe anything they are saying. Someone said that valve is changed in 20 min. Could someone confirm. Dmthey need to spend more time later testing or so?
Sorry for my english if something is wrong.
I just got price to change the bypass valve 55354158 and they say cost 275 eur..arround 350 dollars to change it, 30 eur the valve plus 3,4 hours to change it.
Additionally they say they say they will change it and later they may need to change something more.
If i do not do it they say I have to pay 1,5 hours cost. That means 90 eur. Apparently they spend that time testing.
Please i need your advice...is it take so long to change that part.
My saab is 93 from 2004 2.0 t 175.
i shoukd decide today...and i do not believe anything they are saying. Someone said that valve is changed in 20 min. Could someone confirm. Dmthey need to spend more time later testing or so?
Sorry for my english if something is wrong.
I have had a bad spark plug throw this code. I replaced the solenoid, still threw the code, replaced the plugs, problem gone. Swap old solenoid back in, code still gone. I ended up putting the new one back in since I had already paid for it, but those three things are not the only things that can cause P0033. If you've serviced the other stuff and the code won't go away, check the plugs and possibly coil packs.
p0033
Hi all, unfortunately I have the same problem with my 2005 SaaB 93 linear. Nobody wants to touch this car in NYC. They just told me that I need to find official dealer
anyway, I changed 3 solenoid valves around the turbo which are air pressure valve, bypass control valve and small plastic diaghram in the BOV (under the turbo). In addition to that we cleared rusted area on the mechanic parts of the turbo, I changed spark plugs with the new ones. By the way there is no leak, crack hole in any hoses or turbo housing. It is vacuuming and can hold the air pressure tool. However, check engine light is still on and turbo gauge can increase just half. As you know the problem occurs when I full throttle and release the pedal suddenly, especially at the second gear around 2500 - 3000 rpm. When I reset the code, it looks good but I think turbocharger cannot use its full performance after 15-20 minutes road test engine light come back again. I realized that just before the light was on, turbo could boost with full capacity. I do not know whether the problem is electrical or mechanical or both. May be someone can help me about this problem. Thank you.
Hi all, unfortunately I have the same problem with my 2005 SaaB 93 linear. Nobody wants to touch this car in NYC. They just told me that I need to find official dealer
anyway, I changed 3 solenoid valves around the turbo which are air pressure valve, bypass control valve and small plastic diaghram in the BOV (under the turbo). In addition to that we cleared rusted area on the mechanic parts of the turbo, I changed spark plugs with the new ones. By the way there is no leak, crack hole in any hoses or turbo housing. It is vacuuming and can hold the air pressure tool. However, check engine light is still on and turbo gauge can increase just half. As you know the problem occurs when I full throttle and release the pedal suddenly, especially at the second gear around 2500 - 3000 rpm. When I reset the code, it looks good but I think turbocharger cannot use its full performance after 15-20 minutes road test engine light come back again. I realized that just before the light was on, turbo could boost with full capacity. I do not know whether the problem is electrical or mechanical or both. May be someone can help me about this problem. Thank you.
only seems to happen after the car is warmed up though. it will also limit my boost by half. can anyone point to me where that diapham is located so I can check it?
I first got the P0033 fault code about 6 months ago. I replaced the two solenoids and the problem was gone. Then a few weeks ago the code popped up again. So I decided to change the diaphragm and also do an instruction to give something back to this site because of all the help I’ve got from here. The old diaphragm looked worn with small cracks and holes in the first layers of it. So far the code hasn’t come back and the car seems much smoother now when releasing the throttle abruptly. I’m almost certain this fixed the problem.
So here’s an instruction with some pictures explaining how to change only the diaphragm for the bypass valve on the Garrett GT2052 turbo (the “little t turbo”). I think it’s similar for the Mitsubishi TD04. It took me less than 1.5 hours to do this but that was with great carefulness not to do anything stupid (I do not have much experience with cars). It’s a little bit tricky because of the narrow space. A professional mechanic should have no problem doing this in approximately 45 minutes.
You may want to start by disconnecting the battery to reset the fault code. Then do the following steps:
1. Loosen the hose clamp for the large hose that goes to the air filter and disconnect the connector to the mass air flow sensor right next to it (pull it up and out).
2. Unscrew the 5 torx screws and unhinge the two plastic hinges to remove the whole top of the air filter box.
3. Disconnect the 3 small vacuum hoses (red) to the solenoid (boost pressure control valve). Then disconnect the connector to it by pressing it down and pulling it out (blue). Remove the solenoid by pressing the small plastic piece down (yellow) and slide it out . (I’m not sure if you have to remove all 3 hoses and put the solenoid aside, but I did that to get some more space. At least one of the vacuum hoses needs to be removed).
4. Remove the large hose (that goes from the turbo to the air filter) by now also loosen the second hose clamp located where it connects to the turbo.
5. Carefully remove the bypass valve by unscrewing the 3 bolts. There’s a spring inside it that has some force in it. I would definitely recommend you to put something below the BPV in case you would drop something down the engine bay. I put a big plastic bag below it as you can see in the picture.
6. Replace the diaphragm and assemble it back again. It’s a bit tricky to install it back on the turbo because of the narrow space. I found it easier to install the BPV assembly back by having 2 of the 3 bolts in it at first to not dislocate the gasket and then put back the last one.
7. Put everything else back in the opposite order.
I hope this can help someone.
So here’s an instruction with some pictures explaining how to change only the diaphragm for the bypass valve on the Garrett GT2052 turbo (the “little t turbo”). I think it’s similar for the Mitsubishi TD04. It took me less than 1.5 hours to do this but that was with great carefulness not to do anything stupid (I do not have much experience with cars). It’s a little bit tricky because of the narrow space. A professional mechanic should have no problem doing this in approximately 45 minutes.
You may want to start by disconnecting the battery to reset the fault code. Then do the following steps:
1. Loosen the hose clamp for the large hose that goes to the air filter and disconnect the connector to the mass air flow sensor right next to it (pull it up and out).
2. Unscrew the 5 torx screws and unhinge the two plastic hinges to remove the whole top of the air filter box.
3. Disconnect the 3 small vacuum hoses (red) to the solenoid (boost pressure control valve). Then disconnect the connector to it by pressing it down and pulling it out (blue). Remove the solenoid by pressing the small plastic piece down (yellow) and slide it out . (I’m not sure if you have to remove all 3 hoses and put the solenoid aside, but I did that to get some more space. At least one of the vacuum hoses needs to be removed).
4. Remove the large hose (that goes from the turbo to the air filter) by now also loosen the second hose clamp located where it connects to the turbo.
5. Carefully remove the bypass valve by unscrewing the 3 bolts. There’s a spring inside it that has some force in it. I would definitely recommend you to put something below the BPV in case you would drop something down the engine bay. I put a big plastic bag below it as you can see in the picture.
6. Replace the diaphragm and assemble it back again. It’s a bit tricky to install it back on the turbo because of the narrow space. I found it easier to install the BPV assembly back by having 2 of the 3 bolts in it at first to not dislocate the gasket and then put back the last one.
7. Put everything else back in the opposite order.
I hope this can help someone.
Attachments
now this code pops up every single time I drive the car. insanely irritating. not sure if its related to my high idle either (900rpm)
I have the 2.0T so its a different part but I did think my diaphragm was bad but confirmed it was without holes with my mity vac pressure/vacuum pump. You can rent one of these at Oreily's or Autozone (forgot which one) to check it yourself.
http://mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp
As for checking vac lines.....definitely a first step and the easiest way to check the vacuum lines is to just replace them. 10feet of 4mm silicone vacuum line can be had for shipped for less than $10
http://mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp
As for checking vac lines.....definitely a first step and the easiest way to check the vacuum lines is to just replace them. 10feet of 4mm silicone vacuum line can be had for shipped for less than $10
So I've been having the same issue, bought the replacement solenoids and ordered spark plugs (NGK double platinum, I really wanted to go premium). I decided for s***'s and giggles that I'd go into the bypass valve itself, and behold a pale horse....the diaphragm has a small hole. So I called around, and a temp fix is a little bit of high temp rtv for a small patch. Not unreasonable really. going to order that Forge one as soon as I can, get rid of all this rubber.
Replacement diaphragms are $52 on Ebay, also I include two 6mm studs that make this job 15 minutes tops.
Again, testing ANY bypass valve is easily accomplished with a length of vacuum hose and even a human vacuum source. The equivalent of sucking on a soda straw. If it holds vacuum its good.
Again, testing ANY bypass valve is easily accomplished with a length of vacuum hose and even a human vacuum source. The equivalent of sucking on a soda straw. If it holds vacuum its good.
I did some thinking, and a rubber diaphram can be...modified. I couldn't wait for the part, and I'm just upgrading to the Forge model, but for now I put some RTV (extreme temp, the copper permatex) and let that cure. Reinstalled (after fighting to figure out the alignment of the holes, put an index mark once I figured that out) and ran it. No more flutter that I can hear, just the straight discharge of pressure. So for a temp fix that's holds up, high temp RTV to patch a hole works well. I don't know for how long though. And pro tip for anyone that decides to look into that valve assembly, use a sharpie and mark how it came off. Saves abut 20 minutes of struggling. Don't use a pencil though, you'll have galvanic corrosion in about a year.
p0033, p1681, p2135, u2103
i changed turbo by pass valve and it turn the engine light on and again half boost. One day its all running fine without engine light on and the other day with engine light on with full boost or sometimes without boost.
I know this p0033 is well discussed code but there are all different procedures to fix. Idk what to do with it.
And sometimes the car is real slow in first gear the rpm goes up but not the speed and slowly it picks the speed and its all ok.
what you think how should i get my car fixed.
thank you
i changed turbo by pass valve and it turn the engine light on and again half boost. One day its all running fine without engine light on and the other day with engine light on with full boost or sometimes without boost.
I know this p0033 is well discussed code but there are all different procedures to fix. Idk what to do with it.
And sometimes the car is real slow in first gear the rpm goes up but not the speed and slowly it picks the speed and its all ok.
what you think how should i get my car fixed.
thank you
I followed most of the advice here, plugs, vacuum hoses, plug wires, etc. with no luck. It ended up being the solenoid and I splurged for the Forge. No codes since. I still have some vacuum hoses to replace and maybe that will get rid of an annoying engine surge when it's cold and damp. However, the rubber part would probably have worked just as well for half the cost
Sorry, I should be more specific (and more patient when typing on a mobile device). I have an 03 Linear (small t). There is a rebuild kit for the bypass valve on my car with a new diaphram, spring, etc. Apparently the same part was also used on Volvos and the rebuild kit is even cheaper if you get it from a Volvo site. I just like shiny things so I went with the Forge.
Very true about the diaphragm. However, mine lasted to 130K miles before an issue. BTW - I was told that the Forge does need to be greased every year or so to retain a smooth action. It wouldn't take much due to the tight tolerances. I have no idea what type of grease - something with high heat tolerance. Also, the center part with the vacuum nipple on the Forge can be rotated without loss of effectiveness so you don't have to worry about other parts interfering with the hose. Some people had posted about this.
Actually I think its the other way around. The volvo had a TD04. The garrett kit was expensive.
You can buy just the diaohragm for td04 but garrett only came as a kit which is why it was so expensive. lots of cars used td04s but not many garrett gts
OK. So you embarrassed me into looking this back up
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-173829.html (for full discussion)
Volvo repair kit 271801 (US) $73.63:
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Repair-kit/1135220/271801.html
Volvo repair kit 271801 (Europe) $73.63:
http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...arts/exhaust/turbocharger/bypass-valve-turbo-system-garret-repair-part/1020392/
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-173829.html (for full discussion)
Volvo repair kit 271801 (US) $73.63:
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Repair-kit/1135220/271801.html
Volvo repair kit 271801 (Europe) $73.63:
http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...arts/exhaust/turbocharger/bypass-valve-turbo-system-garret-repair-part/1020392/
I have the same code. The hose look ok visually. I decided to just look at the bypass valve. Removed the large tube from the turbocharger - several drops of oil dropped from it. Should there be any oil in turbocharger just like that? Thank you.
photo take with my phone:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_HrNpvN-ZbCYklmTEVPSUU5N25XaWVsRDlWUll4NDVYUjc0/view?usp=sharing
![Image]()
photo take with my phone:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_HrNpvN-ZbCYklmTEVPSUU5N25XaWVsRDlWUll4NDVYUjc0/view?usp=sharing
Turbo bypass valve replacement
What is the correct order in which the bpv goes in? Currently I have it in this order: from the turbo it goes spring, black cap, diaphragm and lastly the black plastic cage looking thing then the metal cap that bolts everything together, do I have this order right?
What is the correct order in which the bpv goes in? Currently I have it in this order: from the turbo it goes spring, black cap, diaphragm and lastly the black plastic cage looking thing then the metal cap that bolts everything together, do I have this order right?
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