Im getting an error code as follows-- P0033 Turbo charger bypass valve control circuit. Im trying to find out what the cause and fix for this code is, if anyone has any idea, please let me know.
P0033 Turbo charger bypass valve control circuit
Scooty814
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Three weeks have passed since replacing the solenoid and the spark plugs, and it has not thrown the code once. I have tried beating on it too - full throttle, let up, full throttle, let up at various RPMs and it's been perfect. Prior to that it was throwing the code regularly and in testing applying WOT throttle, backing off, and repeating at low to mid RPMs would throw the code consistently.
Thanks again for the tip - you saved me $300 plus a few hours' work (the screws on the BPV appear corroded and might not be so easy to remove). That $300 will go toward an upgraded turbo late winter or early spring.
Thanks again for the tip - you saved me $300 plus a few hours' work (the screws on the BPV appear corroded and might not be so easy to remove). That $300 will go toward an upgraded turbo late winter or early spring.
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P0033 - Bypass and check vales replaced - still have code
I have a 2004 93t - same P0033 code
I have replaced both bypass valves - THEY ARE NOT $300!!!!!! that is just madness, they are $25 here: http://www.goldwingsaabparts.com/product_p/12787706.htm
http://www.goldwingsaabparts.com/product_p/55354158.htm
anyway....I replaced both of mine and 2 check valves off of the EVAP hose and my car is STILL giving me the p0033 code.. I have scoured for a cracked hose but cannot seem to find one. Could this be fuse related? Has anybody ever found a shorted out wire? if so where?
s
I have a 2004 93t - same P0033 code
I have replaced both bypass valves - THEY ARE NOT $300!!!!!! that is just madness, they are $25 here: http://www.goldwingsaabparts.com/product_p/12787706.htm
http://www.goldwingsaabparts.com/product_p/55354158.htm
anyway....I replaced both of mine and 2 check valves off of the EVAP hose and my car is STILL giving me the p0033 code.. I have scoured for a cracked hose but cannot seem to find one. Could this be fuse related? Has anybody ever found a shorted out wire? if so where?
s
Generally, there are 3 things that tick off the code. If you've replaced the two solenoids (the one before the turbo and the one after, @ $40.00) you'll have to replace the bypass valve itself (@ $300). It's super easy to replace. It's located roght on the side of the turbo. you'll have to disconnect a few hoses and then there's 3 bolts holding it in. You need to be careful when taking the bolts out because the valve has a spring held against the cover that will shoot it off if you're not holding it. After you've got the valve off it's a simple plug and play. The whole repair takes 20-25 minutes. the real blower is the that the simple rubber diaphragm on the bypass valve is what rots and its its $300. If your saab is after 2006 you've got a Mitsu turbo and you can find a cheaper replacement, if you're 03-05 you've gota Garret and you'll need to buy OEM
That part# 12787706 is identical for both the boost control valve solenoid(on top of wastegate) and the bypass valve solenoid that Cntrlz's finger is pointing at. I ordered a boost control valve from EEuroparts and they sent me 12787706 in a bag labeled 55354158. These part numbers are interchangeable and work at both locations in the plumbing loop.
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help please
i have replaced all the lines with silicone ones and my bypass valve is mint and i replaced the bypass valve circuit in front of motor the one above waistgate i believe its called i havent replaced but its has ben fine but im having battery issues also so can it be a battery issue or that last part i would need? or how can i test if thats the issue?
i have replaced all the lines with silicone ones and my bypass valve is mint and i replaced the bypass valve circuit in front of motor the one above waistgate i believe its called i havent replaced but its has ben fine but im having battery issues also so can it be a battery issue or that last part i would need? or how can i test if thats the issue?
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help
if you can just call me please its easier 6304785035
if you can just call me please its easier 6304785035
Testing these bypass valves for leaks is the same as ALL Saab bypass/hooter valves. Take a length of hose to the valves port and a vacuum source (it could be YOU). Does it hold vacuum? Yes? Its good. No? Its bad, probably has a hole in it. For the MY 03-05 little "t" turbos, I have a replacement diaphragm available.
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My saab dealer says to change bypass valve cost 3,5 hours...
I just got price to change the bypass valve 55354158 and they say cost 275 eur..arround 350 dollars to change it, 30 eur the valve plus 3,4 hours to change it.
Additionally they say they say they will change it and later they may need to change something more.
If i do not do it they say I have to pay 1,5 hours cost. That means 90 eur. Apparently they spend that time testing.
Please i need your advice...is it take so long to change that part.
My saab is 93 from 2004 2.0 t 175.
i shoukd decide today...and i do not believe anything they are saying. Someone said that valve is changed in 20 min. Could someone confirm. Dmthey need to spend more time later testing or so?
Sorry for my english if something is wrong.
I just got price to change the bypass valve 55354158 and they say cost 275 eur..arround 350 dollars to change it, 30 eur the valve plus 3,4 hours to change it.
Additionally they say they say they will change it and later they may need to change something more.
If i do not do it they say I have to pay 1,5 hours cost. That means 90 eur. Apparently they spend that time testing.
Please i need your advice...is it take so long to change that part.
My saab is 93 from 2004 2.0 t 175.
i shoukd decide today...and i do not believe anything they are saying. Someone said that valve is changed in 20 min. Could someone confirm. Dmthey need to spend more time later testing or so?
Sorry for my english if something is wrong.
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I have had a bad spark plug throw this code. I replaced the solenoid, still threw the code, replaced the plugs, problem gone. Swap old solenoid back in, code still gone. I ended up putting the new one back in since I had already paid for it, but those three things are not the only things that can cause P0033. If you've serviced the other stuff and the code won't go away, check the plugs and possibly coil packs.
p0033
Hi all, unfortunately I have the same problem with my 2005 SaaB 93 linear. Nobody wants to touch this car in NYC. They just told me that I need to find official dealer anyway, I changed 3 solenoid valves around the turbo which are air pressure valve, bypass control valve and small plastic diaghram in the BOV (under the turbo). In addition to that we cleared rusted area on the mechanic parts of the turbo, I changed spark plugs with the new ones. By the way there is no leak, crack hole in any hoses or turbo housing. It is vacuuming and can hold the air pressure tool. However, check engine light is still on and turbo gauge can increase just half. As you know the problem occurs when I full throttle and release the pedal suddenly, especially at the second gear around 2500 - 3000 rpm. When I reset the code, it looks good but I think turbocharger cannot use its full performance after 15-20 minutes road test engine light come back again. I realized that just before the light was on, turbo could boost with full capacity. I do not know whether the problem is electrical or mechanical or both. May be someone can help me about this problem. Thank you.
Hi all, unfortunately I have the same problem with my 2005 SaaB 93 linear. Nobody wants to touch this car in NYC. They just told me that I need to find official dealer
anyway, I changed 3 solenoid valves around the turbo which are air pressure valve, bypass control valve and small plastic diaghram in the BOV (under the turbo). In addition to that we cleared rusted area on the mechanic parts of the turbo, I changed spark plugs with the new ones. By the way there is no leak, crack hole in any hoses or turbo housing. It is vacuuming and can hold the air pressure tool. However, check engine light is still on and turbo gauge can increase just half. As you know the problem occurs when I full throttle and release the pedal suddenly, especially at the second gear around 2500 - 3000 rpm. When I reset the code, it looks good but I think turbocharger cannot use its full performance after 15-20 minutes road test engine light come back again. I realized that just before the light was on, turbo could boost with full capacity. I do not know whether the problem is electrical or mechanical or both. May be someone can help me about this problem. Thank you.
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whhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaatttttttttt????????????? 3 hours?? to change the solenoid valve??
which one? the one on the turbo wastegate actuator or the one near the T8 ECU, just on the engine, under the engine cover?
I can confirm you with less than 30 minutes you can change both. I extract both of them many times, for cleaning and after some issues with this code, and the Bypass valve.
For the one on the wastegate actuator, you only need a plier to take out the clips that fix the hoses to the valve, a little bit of force and be careful to disingage them and that's it.
The one under the engine cover, you need the torx screwdriver that comes in the toolbox of the car, take out the engine cover and disconect the hoses, they are quite tight, but with a little bit of brute force....
Another thing is the bypass valve,
The bypass valve kit, it costs about 300€, and with a labour of 1 hour it could be done more or less. You need to uninstall the air filter, the air filter hose, that it's quite easy, then you have access to the bypass valve, 3 screws, and that's it.
3 hours, this is an absolutly joke!!
Testing?? my god, the delaers have a tool like an air pump to test the turbo pressure without moving the car and they could test the solenoid is working fine, I saw it several times.
Manda huevos!! En resumen, con unas alicates, en un plis plas las valvulas solenoide se quitan en un momento, lo he hecho miles de veces, ambas, si me dices la valvula bypass que lleva integrada el turbo eso si que es mas caro, mas que nada el kit, y la mano de obra en 1 hora lo tienen hecho
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bumping this up. I am getting the P0033 code and replaced both of these solenoids ($100 total). Car ran great, had full boost back, but still major turbo flutter. ran for a week and the code popped up again. Would you think the next step is to replace the diaphragm (p/n 55558271)? I see kits on ebay going for $160, or single diaphrams for $80. do I need the kit or can I just replace the diaphragm?Last year I experienced turbo flutter followed by P0033 and limp home mode. Pulling the negative would reset the code but the car would intermittently run right or throw the code again. I replaced (unnecessarily) the turbo bypass valve diaphragm from http://www.vivaperformance.com/mitsubishi-cbv-upgrade-kit/ because the problem continued. (Note that I have an Arc and did not want to replace the entire turbo bypass valve. This diaphragm does not work with the Linear turbo.) My old diaphragm was not torn and appeared to be in good condition as did the spring, but I replaced it anyway since I already had the new parts.
I then replaced the boost control valve (part # 12787706) in ctrlz's picture:
![Image]()
This solved the problem. The solenoid inside it was sticking and causing the code.
Do not rule out the solenoid as a culprit, especially if the turbo bypass diaphragm appears to be in good condition.
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only seems to happen after the car is warmed up though. it will also limit my boost by half. can anyone point to me where that diapham is located so I can check it?
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any help?
Wait, flutter after the car is warmed up?
I have the same issue (and P0033) and when it was cold one day I didn't had the flutter.
What causes flutter btw? Seems a mechanical thing.
I first got the P0033 fault code about 6 months ago. I replaced the two solenoids and the problem was gone. Then a few weeks ago the code popped up again. So I decided to change the diaphragm and also do an instruction to give something back to this site because of all the help I’ve got from here. The old diaphragm looked worn with small cracks and holes in the first layers of it. So far the code hasn’t come back and the car seems much smoother now when releasing the throttle abruptly. I’m almost certain this fixed the problem.
So here’s an instruction with some pictures explaining how to change only the diaphragm for the bypass valve on the Garrett GT2052 turbo (the “little t turbo”). I think it’s similar for the Mitsubishi TD04. It took me less than 1.5 hours to do this but that was with great carefulness not to do anything stupid (I do not have much experience with cars). It’s a little bit tricky because of the narrow space. A professional mechanic should have no problem doing this in approximately 45 minutes.
You may want to start by disconnecting the battery to reset the fault code. Then do the following steps:
1. Loosen the hose clamp for the large hose that goes to the air filter and disconnect the connector to the mass air flow sensor right next to it (pull it up and out).
2. Unscrew the 5 torx screws and unhinge the two plastic hinges to remove the whole top of the air filter box.
3. Disconnect the 3 small vacuum hoses (red) to the solenoid (boost pressure control valve). Then disconnect the connector to it by pressing it down and pulling it out (blue). Remove the solenoid by pressing the small plastic piece down (yellow) and slide it out . (I’m not sure if you have to remove all 3 hoses and put the solenoid aside, but I did that to get some more space. At least one of the vacuum hoses needs to be removed).
4. Remove the large hose (that goes from the turbo to the air filter) by now also loosen the second hose clamp located where it connects to the turbo.
5. Carefully remove the bypass valve by unscrewing the 3 bolts. There’s a spring inside it that has some force in it. I would definitely recommend you to put something below the BPV in case you would drop something down the engine bay. I put a big plastic bag below it as you can see in the picture.
6. Replace the diaphragm and assemble it back again. It’s a bit tricky to install it back on the turbo because of the narrow space. I found it easier to install the BPV assembly back by having 2 of the 3 bolts in it at first to not dislocate the gasket and then put back the last one.
7. Put everything else back in the opposite order.
I hope this can help someone.
So here’s an instruction with some pictures explaining how to change only the diaphragm for the bypass valve on the Garrett GT2052 turbo (the “little t turbo”). I think it’s similar for the Mitsubishi TD04. It took me less than 1.5 hours to do this but that was with great carefulness not to do anything stupid (I do not have much experience with cars). It’s a little bit tricky because of the narrow space. A professional mechanic should have no problem doing this in approximately 45 minutes.
You may want to start by disconnecting the battery to reset the fault code. Then do the following steps:
1. Loosen the hose clamp for the large hose that goes to the air filter and disconnect the connector to the mass air flow sensor right next to it (pull it up and out).
2. Unscrew the 5 torx screws and unhinge the two plastic hinges to remove the whole top of the air filter box.
3. Disconnect the 3 small vacuum hoses (red) to the solenoid (boost pressure control valve). Then disconnect the connector to it by pressing it down and pulling it out (blue). Remove the solenoid by pressing the small plastic piece down (yellow) and slide it out . (I’m not sure if you have to remove all 3 hoses and put the solenoid aside, but I did that to get some more space. At least one of the vacuum hoses needs to be removed).
4. Remove the large hose (that goes from the turbo to the air filter) by now also loosen the second hose clamp located where it connects to the turbo.
5. Carefully remove the bypass valve by unscrewing the 3 bolts. There’s a spring inside it that has some force in it. I would definitely recommend you to put something below the BPV in case you would drop something down the engine bay. I put a big plastic bag below it as you can see in the picture.
6. Replace the diaphragm and assemble it back again. It’s a bit tricky to install it back on the turbo because of the narrow space. I found it easier to install the BPV assembly back by having 2 of the 3 bolts in it at first to not dislocate the gasket and then put back the last one.
7. Put everything else back in the opposite order.
I hope this can help someone.
Attachments
If you've tried everything suggested in this thread I really don't know what to do.
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