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"HOW TO" replace EVAP Purge Valve on 2.8T V6

150K views 100 replies 52 participants last post by  Mimmi  
#1 ·
Mods can this be stickied Please!!!!!! In the "How To" section ofcourse!

I went ahead and took pictures while I replaced the EVAP purge Valve solenoid last night. I figured since I haven't been the only one to do this repair I might as well make a "How To."

First off, the reason I replaced the EVAP Purge valve is because my car threw a P0496 Code. There was some talk about this in this recent thread: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123758&highlight=evap+purge . I posted some WIS instructions and a fellow SaabCentral Member did the repair and I finally ordered my part and followed suit.

The Purge Valve is listed as Part # 12593761 and the part that arrived at my house was a Bosch unit with #12611802 printed on it. YERASIMOS also had that experience in the aforementioned thread.

Tools needed:
-Fingers
-10mm Socket

Once I finished my Check engine light immediately disapeared. Others had the same experience.

Good Luck, and Remember: (*lame disclaimer*) This is a demonstration of my experiences and I cannot be held responsible for any problems or issues that arise if you attempt the repair.

Anyway, Now on to the How To part. I will post the WIS instructions and the Pictures that I took.

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Now some pictures from my experience.

Part:

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Step1. Remove the Upper Engine Cover

-Take the Oil fill cap off and the pull up on the Black plastic cover.

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#39 ·
i have been trying to get the actual saab purge valve but it has not been easy. i also tried to get gm part #12591334 but have had no luck. pretty sure i can get gm part #12611801 (which is for a 2.8, v6 Cadillac), does anyone know if this piece will work? any advice is appreciated, i wouldnt mind paying for the genuine saab part but i cannot find one online. my 9-3 threw the purge flow code about three weeks ago and i am starting to notice that the acceleration is not as quick as it should be. just want to get the problem fixed asap. thanks
 
#40 ·
I ran my mine for more than 1.5 years and it was fine. Unless you're having constant issues I wouldn't be too concerned.
I don't know how acceleration would be effected by this part???
 
#41 ·
got the replacement valve from eBay. part arrived on monday, and i had it installed soon after. like the original instructions say, some of the hoses and connectors are a little bit tricky to remove. overall its a very easy process to remove or replace this part. the WIS instructions help, but without the write-up and the pictures I would have been clueless.

also, if anyone is hesitant to disconnect the ECM: just pull the metal lever across after you push in the black tab on the left side. i dont see why anyone would be worried about this, as i had absolutely no problems and it was just as easy to plug back in.

thanks a lot! as a guy with limited amounts of money, it is always nice to avoid a trip to the saab dealer. took me 25 minutes, and i've never even changed my own oil. the only other repair i've had to do was replace an entire headlight assembly on a volvo 940 (and that was much more difficult/frustrating).
 
#43 ·
got the replacement valve from eBay. part arrived on monday...
Reminder please, about which Part # we're ultimately talking about? And is that Bosch/GM/Other? So many numbers and suppliers my old noggin can't keep things straight :).
 
#42 · (Edited)
Thanks!

Just wanted to share my experience as this was the first major maintenance I had to perform on my 2006 9-3 Aero purchased in January. I downloaded the WIS from "some" source :lol:, which gave me basic information to do the job, the OP's pics helped greatly. Things i noticed while doing the job that weren't mentioned.

1) On my car, there was an additional cable coming off of the ECM(Large Connector) which screwed down to the engine with a bolt, maybe an additional ground connection?

2) The left hose nearest to the connector on the purge valve is extremely tight, be careful!

3) Had a hard time fitting the new purge valve, there is part that is inserted into the upper part of the engine which has a 90 degree hose on it, which is extremely close to the "bracket" the purge valve slides into on the rubber mount.

4)make sure to disconnect your battery! this will prevent possible damage to the cars electrical system.

overall I'm pretty mechanically aware, computer tech by trade so this guide made things go pretty smooth(besides tired legs and scraped up arms from stretching over the hood).:p

Also 1 question, If i didnt get the purge valve "exactly" square on the metal bracket, should I worry? or just let it go. I have no idea how much "twisting motion" would be on the purge valve when its working.

Thanks for the help!
Tom

BTW This is the part I used.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270914827014?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 
#46 ·
Part numbers

I've had the same fault code, however the guy doing the repairs has told me that it's some weird part number:-
PA66-GF25
B7080-275196
(Neither of these part numbers seem to exist)

I personally think he's given the wrong numbers, can anybody verify how many different variations of the purge valve there were for a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero?

Should the same part numbers given in this thread work with my car ie 12593761 or 12611802 ? if so where can I get them?

Thanks
 
#48 ·
I wonder if this is in the same location as my 9-4x

I keep on getting the P0496 Code and I am wondering if this is a fix for it.

Right Now I am working on the following Code Issues
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P0496
P0513

Basically when I got the car, it had these 2 codes, I cleared them and they went away for a little bit.

Then the P0496 would always return (when this happened the Turbo Guage would stop working meaning the needle would not move). It would not be a new code though it would always be the Old Mature Code after I clear it the gauge would work again and then go away.

After 1 week of driving the CEL came back up again (earlier it would just be the code with NO Cel) along with the immobilizer code as well as a New code which I forgot to read by mistake but it was talking about system bank 1 running too rich.
 
#52 ·
ACDELCO Part # 2142137
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{#12610560}
VALVE,Evaporative Emission Canister PURGE SOL IF ORIGINAL PART IS MARKED 12611802, REMOVE ADAPTER BETWEEN VALVE AND INTAKE MANIFOLD
This is the EXACT part I used and removed mentioned bracket. Fit fine, code went away and havent had another issue in the 6 months since I replaced it. Part cost me less than 20 bucks.
 
#56 ·
Okay, are you suggesting the pics of the part you listed may not be correct either? Or does that not matter, as long as the specs are identical?

The part I threw up lists as being compatible with GM 12591334; which, if I'm reading correctly, has been confirmed to work by cosmicflash:
ACDELCO Part # 2141685 {#12591334, 12611801}
Category: Vapor Canister Purge Valve

As for the part#, I just figured that bracket they installed would have granted enough difference for Bosch to issue a different P#

BTW: dont read into my post as agression towards you, I'm just extremely confuzed :cheesy:
 
#63 · (Edited)
Agh! Purge Valve # right?

Help!
reading the great thread on this but ordered and got the AC Delco-boxed version of the purge valve...last three on the Bosch part # are 801...not 802...will this work? number ordered was the 121-593-761...came in the AC Delco box re-stickered with:
12-593-761/71
214-1685
Purge Valve
11012B23

original box sticker says:
214-1685
GM # 12611801 Germany

like i said...i received a boxch 12611801...getting ready to swap this in an hour and now not sure if it's the right one.
2.8 V6 Aero SC 2007
Brian
 
#64 ·
Help!
reading the great thread on this but ordered and got the AC Delco-boxed version of the purge valve...last three on the Bosch part # are 801...not 802...will this work? number ordered was the 121-593-761...came in the AC Delco box re-stickered with:
12-593-761/71
214-1685
Purge Valve
11012B23

original box sticker says:
214-1685
GM # 12611801 Germany

like i said...i received a boxch 12611801...getting ready to swap this in an hour and now not sure if it's the right one.
2.8 V6 Aero SC 2007
Brian
If you're talking about the one that came with that metal bracket, its fine. Just remove the bracket and you have yourself a proper working purge valve.
 
#66 ·
serious problems taking off the right (when looking at engine from front) purge valve line...no blue button like the other side to depress...is it a twisty of is there something i need to pry out?...anyone??? Making me feel like an idiot. I'm being a little ginger with everything anyway because it's llike 40 degrees and everything's brittle. I don't want to break anything.
 
#70 ·
Thanks all. While changing the rear spark plugs and removing the Evap canister valve and associated tubing the nipple on the part in question broke off. I need to replace this part but don't know what it is called.

View attachment 34095
I just broke the same thing, the piece that attaches to the engine and has one nipple and one valve branching off, anyone got a part number?
Doesn't seem to do anything other than kill the SID readouts for DTE and Fuel Econ.