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DIY: Boost Gauge Install - 2.8T 93 AERO

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35K views 30 replies 22 participants last post by  swedespeed7  
#1 ·
Did this today as it seems we have info for the 2.0T install and just pics for the 2.8T. So I documented it on my 2.8T.

DISCLAIMER:
I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR CAR OR WHAT YOU BREAK!

Parts:
Boost Gauge $40 (ebay Glowshift). This gauge lights up 7 different colors and matches the green from the green dash pretty good.

Pillar Pod $25 (ebay Glowshift). This is a universal one that came in black.

Tools:
10mm socket
3/8" drive extension
3/8" Rachet
knife (exactoknife works well)
Zip ties
Vacuum Line
Misc. wire and connectors
Wire crimpers
Wire coat hanger...lol (I will explain this)

Lets Start.....

First pop the hood and pull the engine cover off. Disconnect your battery for safety. If you do not know how to do this, than this install is more than you can handle at this point. Once pulled locate the ECU on the back of the manifold.

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Once located you need to disconnect the ECU plug and this other plug.

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Once those are out of the way, you should be looking at this vacuum line. This vacuum line comes off the back of the manifold.

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Unplug it at the manifold. There is a grey button on the side of the connector. Push it and pull the connector off. Becareful doing this as my vacuum line was made of plastic and it break if forced too much.

I cut the plastic line with a hacksaw. Don't worry if you bought some vacuum hose first!

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After cutting the hose carefully, take the knife and carefully cut away the outer hose of the vacuum line on both ends.

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Now time for the hard part. Running the line through the firewall. Climb under the dash and remove the on torxs screw holding the black under panel up.

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Pull it down to reveal the under parts of the dash. Look to your top left on the firewall from inside the car and see where the wire harness goes through the firewall. There is a grommet there. Poke a hole through it with the knife or use a screwdriver, your call. Just be careful cause you don't want to cut any wires on the engine side. Run the tube through the hole you made.

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Go to the engine side and look for the harness just in front of the ABS computer. I fed the line through and had to use a wire coat hanger to guide it so it would not go down towards the floor. 2 people is great for this part.

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Once you get it through, pull it over the resivoir tank and follow the brake booster line to the vacuum line you cut. Connect everything up and zip tie the connections for a tight connection.

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#2 ·
Now to the inside....

You have the bottom removed, now for the A-pillar. First look for the plastic tab where it says "AIRBAG" and pop it off. There is a 10mm bolt under it. Remove it.

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Once removed pop the pillar off. Make sure you have clean hands as you don't want to leave dirty hand prints on the cloth. Also remove the fuse panel cover on the end of the dash by the door.

Grab your vacuum tube that you ran through the firewall and run it up by the fuse holder. There is plenty of room and you can route it all the way up to the pillar.

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Grab your pillar and make a whole big enough to run the vacuum tube and the wiring for the boost gauge. Install the guage on the pillar. Now I know...your thinking..."I got the tube hokked up, what about power to the gauge?" Here we go!

I grounded the gauge at the bolt at the bottom of the fuse panel.

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For the power and memory wires I ran them to the cig lighter wires under in the center of the dash console. There is a switched + connection. I also had a yellow wire from the old XM reciever option from SAAB that broke and I removed it. So I had constant + connection.

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Run the cables to the gauge and connect there also. Put your pillar back where it goes and tighten the 10mm bolt and put the plastic pice back over the bolt.

When finished it should look something like this....

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#4 ·
So once you cut the tube between the two connectors, than what do you do?
The directions said cut it, and then run the tube through the firewall, what tube is this?

Sorry for being a little naggy, but i have been pondering on a boost gauge.

Can you post a video in action?
 
#5 ·
once the tube is cut, take your nife and cut the plastic outer tube. When u cut it you will see what I am talking about. Remove the outer plastic tube so u can attach the rubber line to it.

I will take a video of the gauge working in the morning.
 
#8 ·
Did you have any brake issues now that your driving it? I thouht I have read one or two people say that they had some odd brake boost interference when they tapped in at this same spot.....like soft brakes in reverse or such?



Sean
 
#9 ·
Did you have any brake issues now that your driving it? I thouht I have read one or two people say that they had some odd brake boost interference when they tapped in at this same spot.....like soft brakes in reverse or such?



Sean
None for me so far. But I just drove it this morning for about 40 miles, but everything seems fine.
 
#16 ·
Would the install be the same for the electronic boost gauge? I have an eletronic prosport gauge.
 
#17 ·
Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram? I do not have a wire tester so I don't know where to get a power source from.
 
#23 ·
if you can just remove the hard plastic line and replace with normal vacuum line, it would actually be better since the hard line won't be an added stress on the check valves (what actually fails on that part) because they are flexible.
 
#25 ·
This was very helpful with installing the mechanical half of the gage, and thanks for that! However, I'm having some electrical problems. When I turn the ignition ON the gage does 1 long loud beep and completes the opening ceremony before blinking between OFF and GREEN repeatedly. When I turn the ignition OFF it successfully completes the closing ceremony. Also, while ON, the needle does not move from 6 o'clock.

I found some people who had this problem due to a faulty sender harness but I've tried 2 with no luck. Could someone tell me exactly how they have theirs wired? Thanks.
 
#26 ·
seems like a fun mod, my check valve is broken and welded just by the joint so might as well do this when replacing.

Seen a few threads on the check valve but none with answer if any valve works or if i need to pickup the entire assembly for $40?

What dimensions on the hoses and what t-connection did u use?

Thanks!