It's a '92 9000 Turbo with the 2.3L. What just started happening is when I step on the accelerator to pass, the turbo pressure goes up, but when it gets near the end of the yellow zone on the boost gauge, the engine starts to pop and stutter and not want to go. What's wrong?
JoJoDaClown
Sounds like DI Cartridge is failing, see if you can borrow a known good one to see if it eliminates the problem.
make sure your pressure side hosing from turbo to intercooler are ok.... had a similar issue with my 87 9000 few years back, split in the hose turned out to be the culprit. As pressure raised, hole opened out/shut/opened/shut which meant boost spiking and dropping, engine all over the place and a few weird noises to boot....
but drive it gently and it was sweet as ever...
but drive it gently and it was sweet as ever...
Hey all, my first ever post on this, so i hope its worthwhile and helpful.
I believe the shuddering is due to overboosting on the turbo. Turn the actuator down a twist or two.
Not sure of the 92 model, but the 95 aero i have was suffering exactly the same and i knackered my turbo. There's a sensor that doesn't let the turbo overboost, as you will notice on most saab turbo gauages they never go all the way into the red. I know you can cheat the sensor, but not 100% sure. Only going on what i found out from my shuddering, but hope it helps.
I believe the shuddering is due to overboosting on the turbo. Turn the actuator down a twist or two.
Not sure of the 92 model, but the 95 aero i have was suffering exactly the same and i knackered my turbo. There's a sensor that doesn't let the turbo overboost, as you will notice on most saab turbo gauages they never go all the way into the red. I know you can cheat the sensor, but not 100% sure. Only going on what i found out from my shuddering, but hope it helps.
hi Asanti,welcome aboard...
Overboost problem you suggest wouldn't be the case here as he is not even going into the red zone of the guage, which is where the overboost sensor kicks in (15.5psi) and kicks out fuel supply, giving that dead/surge/dead/surge sensation you're probably thinking of.
This one is more of a misfire problem as it is not even approaching the red zone where the 15.5 point lies and he has described a "popping sound", which if it were a simple fuel cut that the sensor activation will cause would not result in any sound, just neck snapping sensations.....
Any updates for us Jojodaclown?
Actually just had a similar issue with my old 87 9000 turbo, seems the governor decided it wasn't gonna play anymore and started trying to intermittently cut out as low as 1500rpm, misfiring like al heck. figured prob out when i managed a clean run and engine pulled to almost 6500rpm with no cut-out.... never did that b4!
Overboost problem you suggest wouldn't be the case here as he is not even going into the red zone of the guage, which is where the overboost sensor kicks in (15.5psi) and kicks out fuel supply, giving that dead/surge/dead/surge sensation you're probably thinking of.
This one is more of a misfire problem as it is not even approaching the red zone where the 15.5 point lies and he has described a "popping sound", which if it were a simple fuel cut that the sensor activation will cause would not result in any sound, just neck snapping sensations.....
Any updates for us Jojodaclown?
Actually just had a similar issue with my old 87 9000 turbo, seems the governor decided it wasn't gonna play anymore and started trying to intermittently cut out as low as 1500rpm, misfiring like al heck. figured prob out when i managed a clean run and engine pulled to almost 6500rpm with no cut-out.... never did that b4!
Hey - sounds as if you havent actually checked out the DI yet. I'll put money on it as the failure...
My DI failed like this:
Perfect under normal driving - nothing wayward at all drive all day etc. But push the boost up a bit and you get a shuddery misfire (not violent) and you need to back off to recover.
I woundnt bother with any of the other checks until the DI is checked (unless it's really new). If the car has done 80 -110k miles on the original, then this is very likely.
FYI -At higher boost, the sparks need more oomph from the DI and if it's not happy, it will not provide a strong enough spark = the misfire shudder you feel.
My DI failed like this:
Perfect under normal driving - nothing wayward at all drive all day etc. But push the boost up a bit and you get a shuddery misfire (not violent) and you need to back off to recover.
I woundnt bother with any of the other checks until the DI is checked (unless it's really new). If the car has done 80 -110k miles on the original, then this is very likely.
FYI -At higher boost, the sparks need more oomph from the DI and if it's not happy, it will not provide a strong enough spark = the misfire shudder you feel.
Asanti, fuel cut-out will cause your car to Kangaroo-hop; that neck snapping sensation I mentioned previously :x Keep your foot buried in the carpet and each time you exceed that 15.5psi your fuel supply will be suddenly shut off and you get a sudden deceleration as if you released the throttle, but as soon as boost drops back down again below that critical level, it's like slamming your foot back onto the throttle only more pronounced!
Keep your foot there and it won't do much for you, your transmission or your hip pocket nerve....
Keep your foot there and it won't do much for you, your transmission or your hip pocket nerve....
Skint / Scabbyone ..... your both pointing problems that occured before my turbo went. Finally got th turbo off, and it looks like the internal fan had been rubbing against the inside of the turbo over time, and finally actually bored a whole inside the turbo.
So hoping to change the turbo today as the new one has arrived.
Correct me if i'm wrong, but the DI is the red casing that sits on top of the engine bay right? - Straight forward to change??
Is there anyway of adjusting the fuel cut on the car?
I mean i don't currently mind spending the money to get the engine more fresh.... the car has done 180k and abviously is going to be suffering some wear and tear etc etc. :roll:
So hoping to change the turbo today as the new one has arrived.
Correct me if i'm wrong, but the DI is the red casing that sits on top of the engine bay right? - Straight forward to change??
Is there anyway of adjusting the fuel cut on the car?
I mean i don't currently mind spending the money to get the engine more fresh.... the car has done 180k and abviously is going to be suffering some wear and tear etc etc. :roll:
only way to change those settings as far as I am aware (and I am no experet, not by a long shot! :lol: ) is by changing your engine management system with either upgrades for your current one or after market total replacements which will allow much greater flexibility.... IF you know how to use them! 
Other than that, no there isn't any other way. Mind you, for ordinary street driving, there is no real need to, 15 psi boost will give you a fair amount of power, eg my 2.0 litre achieved 160bhp as standard. With the addition of a simple, cheap boost controller, a K&N hi-flow air filter, a free flow exhaust plus a decent set of spark plugs and the car in upper end of rev range (above ~3500rpm) ate the bigger, more powerful 2.3HPT rated @ 220bhp alive! From 100kph up they couldn't keep up, proved that on a race track during a Saab driver's day organised by a mate.... haven't heard of a 2.3HPT 9000 getting up to 250kph, but the 2.0 litre did and it already had 270,000 "untouched" kms clocked up- not even timing chain had been done yet!
So what I am trying to say after all that ramble, is that a free-flow exhaust @ $500 from cat back (still @ original 2.5"), a $60 boost controller, $80 "pod" type filter, $70 worth of plugs and there was an extra 70-odd neddies on tap... made for fun driving and for reliable, economical street motoring- personally I don't think you need much more, at least to start with! Even with that basic set up it scared the pants off a few people I can tell ya! :cheesy: (BTW prices all in Aussie dollars..)
Other than that, no there isn't any other way. Mind you, for ordinary street driving, there is no real need to, 15 psi boost will give you a fair amount of power, eg my 2.0 litre achieved 160bhp as standard. With the addition of a simple, cheap boost controller, a K&N hi-flow air filter, a free flow exhaust plus a decent set of spark plugs and the car in upper end of rev range (above ~3500rpm) ate the bigger, more powerful 2.3HPT rated @ 220bhp alive! From 100kph up they couldn't keep up, proved that on a race track during a Saab driver's day organised by a mate.... haven't heard of a 2.3HPT 9000 getting up to 250kph, but the 2.0 litre did and it already had 270,000 "untouched" kms clocked up- not even timing chain had been done yet!
So what I am trying to say after all that ramble, is that a free-flow exhaust @ $500 from cat back (still @ original 2.5"), a $60 boost controller, $80 "pod" type filter, $70 worth of plugs and there was an extra 70-odd neddies on tap... made for fun driving and for reliable, economical street motoring- personally I don't think you need much more, at least to start with! Even with that basic set up it scared the pants off a few people I can tell ya! :cheesy: (BTW prices all in Aussie dollars..)
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