[Diggs]

So I did some digging around in my copies of the EPC and WIS about the rubber hose VS the zinc shim. It took me a bit as the EPC shows the zinc shim in the diagram but no part number is shown. In the WIS they show the rubber hose as well under the "normal" instructions for the springs and struts with no mention of the zinc shim.

But

If you dig around there is a button in the window of some WIS pages (second from the right) that looks like a piece of paper with an exclamation point on it.
When you click that when in the front suspension section of the WIS you will find bulletin # 731-2726 which I will post a link to below. In that bulletin it is very clear that the zinc shim is indeed the correct part to use (in the affected states at least) and the rubber hose should not be used at all.

I for one am astounded and humbled at the same time that this is not widely known. I have said for some time that the rubber hose is the newer part and I have been wrong all this time. My apologies to anyone who listened to me on this in previous posts. I was basically repeating what I had read in other posts without doing research beyond on the web. Anyway I find it strange that the EPC does not really call this out properly as well. I think that this is important enough that it should get put into the DIY section about struts and springs so the correct information is readily seen here.

Anyway here is the link to the bulletin with instructions.

https://app.box.com/s/h25a33wgia67rbnhvtvx

I always wondered why the consensus was that the hose took the place of the zinc spacer if the thought was that moisture was causing the corrosion. You'd think the hose would be trapping it. Either way, I think the actual problem is the spring and regardless of the type of spacer it will corrode.

 

[Diggs]

crunching is probably your sway bar endlinks. start there first. how to sticky.

 

[Diggs]

Hey guys,

Quick question, I am replacing the struts and springs on my wife's 2006 93 and noticed that it said not to use an impact because you will turn the shaft. I am using hand tools, but noticed that the shaft of the new OEM strut turned while i was still hand tightening the top nut. I have a tool to hold it in place while torquing it down, but did not expect the shaft to turn so easily.

Is turning the shaft a problem? Or was that just noted because you wouldn't be tightening/loosing the nut, just spinning the shaft?

Thanks!

It's only a problem in that you can't torque the bolt to spec if the shaft is spinning. The shaft can spin all it wants without issue.

 

[Diggs]

Hand tight should be fine. I didn't use a torque wrench on mine.

No loctite, but your road salt probably has rusted them. Need penetrating oil.

 

[Diggs]

Hey there, is this the same concept as the NG 900? I need to do the struts on my 1996 with 93k on it. If so, could you re post the photos? they're no longer showing and I'm very much a visual learner. I'm just tired of my front end rattling like a jackhammer every time I hit a bump, and where I live they don't give two craps about the roads.

thanks!

Evan (first time saab owner)

Unlikely. Go ask in the NG900 forum for help.

 

[Diggs]

All the photo links are dead in this otherwise excellent thread. If you still have access to them, could you upload them somewhere that won't delete them, like imgur?

Last Activity: 12th November 2017