[dfera]

How do you reinstall the hub with the new bearing in it?

 

[elnino]

Where would be the best place to purchase the front hub assembly for a reasonable price? also these come with new speed sensors correct?

 

[HuNtS]

rockauto, 139 shipped for a timken hub, and yes.

 

[elnino]

thanks. im going to have to give this a try once the weather starts getting decent.

 

[erty67]

You my friend are my hero!!! This write is excellent and saved me a ton of money! ;ol; I will also add that my 05 aero had e20 bolts. I know one member said they had e22....maybe different years.

 

[elnino]

can anyone please inform me on the torquing of the 32mm bolt that connects the wheel hub with the axle?

 

[HuNtS]

Usually it's somewhere between 150 and 250 ft-lbs... But really I just go as tight as I can get it

 

[Munki]

170 lb-ft

 

[saabz]

E20 socket for the front brake carrier bolts (150 ft-lbs + 30 degrees) and E18 for the front hub bolts (66 ft-lbs). I believe E22 was/is used on some Euro models front brake carriers.

I just did both my front hubs. I went the really cheap route at first and bought some no name hubs (...KMM). Lots of wheel play! - worse than the bad oem hub I was trying to replace. Replaced with Timkens, going for $120 at RockAuto - perfect! In fact, the Timkens are actually the oem F-A-G brand (hope I don't get censored) hubs packaged in a Timken box. I therefore recommend anyone to get the Timkens since the actual F brand goes for over $200 - pretty expensive box you'd be paying for.

 

[SebastianG]

You are supposed to drink beer during...

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Good write up. I will be replacing the rotors/pads in the near future...

 

[robhurlburt]

This write is excellent and saved me a ton of money! ;ol;

awesome! thats what i was trying to do ;ol;

 

[Supergilson]

what's the torque on the center nut?

 

[HuNtS]

About 4 posts above yours...

 

[uwcableguy]

great write up, much more difficult than it looks

first off, great write up and great pics!

i ran into some very significant problems doing mine (which required a lot of cursing and pb blaster). specifically, my rotor was rusted tight to my hub and i could not get it break free. i may have been able to remove it if i had purchased a larger flywheel puller. so, i decided to remove the 3 e torx bolts that hold the hub to the lower control arm and try to pull both the hub and rotor off at the same time. much to my surprise, the hub was rusted tight to the control arm. d'oh! fortunately, my neighbor came up with a great idea. we installed the donut spare loosely to the hub and rocked it until the hub broke free. then i was able to separate the bearing from the rotor after the fact. installation was much easier. and i 'paid it forward' by putting a little anti-seaze on all the surfaces.

my only other recommendations would be to get 3/8 inch drive e torx sockets. 1/2 inch drive is a bit too big to wedge in for the 12:00 bearing mounting bolt. we actually had to jack up on the control arm to gain enough clearance to get the socket back on the bolt to tighten it.

i can't wait to do the drivers side. (that was sarcasm if you missed it)

 

[burnzio]

My Front O/S ABS Sensor had gone so I've just replaced it and the replaced the hub. (very good guide by the way).

However I'm not sure how to get rid of the ABS/TCS warning lights? I live a long way from the nearest Saab dealership and my local garage's diagnostics machine couldn't reset it for me.

Tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery in hope that might work. Any tips?

 

[Kooby]

Welcome to SC.

If you are still getting the warning then you have not fixed the problem. When the ABS unit senses the appropriate resistance from the sensors it will automatically stop sending warning messages. - no reset required.

Possible problems:
1) You have another hub/abs sensor that needs to be replaced,
2) You may have a wire harness problem - these are common on the rear wire harnesses.
2) Your ABS unit ECM may need to be replaced (Hopefully this is not the case),

One way to figure out which ABS sensor is faulty is to have a Tech II diagnostic performed.
or
Measure the resistance at each sensor with the new sensor as the base line.

If all sensors return similar resistance levels - jack up the rear of the car and follow the rear wire harness around to a junction box in front of the driver side - UK (Passenger US) wheel, disconnect the connector for the ABS sensors and check continuity to the sensor connectors. - search the forums as there are several threads on this.

Good luck.

 

[burnzio]

Thanks for the advice pal.

Rang around and there's no tech II in the area but the vauxhall dealership think they'll at least be able to see what's uP with it, will see how that goes and take it from there

 

[datonyb]

My Front O/S ABS Sensor had gone so I've just replaced it and the replaced the hub. (very good guide by the way).

However I'm not sure how to get rid of the ABS/TCS warning lights? I live a long way from the nearest Saab dealership and my local garage's diagnostics machine couldn't reset it for me.

Tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery in hope that might work. Any tips?

try unplugging all four wheel sensors repeatidly

to clean up the connectors then try ecu reset by dissing battery
its usually the connector corroded on all brands of car due toroad salt water etc

 

[guinea13]

I tried everything to get the the wheel bearing at 12 o'clock out. I found it way easier to take the the bottom 3 bolts holding the balljoint in and then just hammering the wheel bearing out. Very good info though. ;ol;

 

[kozy]

Many thanks to the OP for this DIY, saved me bunches of cash. I replaced my front left hub this weekend and it was DEFINITELY easier to unhook the control arm, remove the shaft, and then torque on those hub bolts in a vise to get them loose.

One thing that would have definitely made this easier would have been air tools though!

I have to say.....it's nice to be able to hear the turbo whistle again! Lol