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I plan on changing the coolant on my '06 9-3 2.0T this weekend. Does anybody know if the 2.0L Ecotec has a coolant drain plug on the engine block? I've been a DIY auto maintenance guy for years, and seem to recall that both my Mustang's 302 and my RX-7's rotary both had drain plugs on the actual engine bock. Made getting most of the coolant out much easier that the process discussed here.

Thanks!
 
Mold in tank

I didn't know what to unplug until I saw your photo. Someone else in this forum had said something about a 13mm bolt. Very good pictures of the work.
I have a question though. My tank has mold or some other dark slime above the Cold line on the reservoir. How can I remove this stuff? Thanks Jack
 
I just did this today. Thanks OP for the great write up! The job is very easy. I'll reiterate that a hose or piece of tubing makes it much much cleaner. The first time I drained it I didn't use a tube and had coolant going all over the place (the drain empties sideways instead of straight down...car engineers never cease to amaze me. Why not straight down?!?! Sheesh). Once I attached a hose to the drain it was much easier and cleaner.
 
so how often should you do this?

My car is going on three years, 30K miles. A variety of climates from subfreezing (as low as 15 degrees F) and 100+

How often should you do the t-stat as well?
 
has anyone every used liquid gasket sealer, like if there is a crack and the engine leaks oil... to seal it? from the instructions on the bottle it goes through the cooling system... i was wondering if it would work and if our cars are not recommended because it might damage something, because of the turbo or other things...?
 
has anyone every used liquid gasket sealer, like if there is a crack and the engine leaks oil... to seal it? from the instructions on the bottle it goes through the cooling system... i was wondering if it would work and if our cars are not recommended because it might damage something, because of the turbo or other things...?
I had to use one on my ng900, it was OK. Yes, it's not an ideal thing to do, but if you have a cracked block it's not like you need to be fussy anymore.

I don't remember the brand, but the one I used required that I replace the coolant with pure water and sealant, then you let the thing idle for a while.

I used it b/c I had a slow but steady loss of coolant and was suspecting a head gasket. It seemed to do the trick for me.

Can you tell us more about your leak? Do you see oil in the antifreeze? Are you losing coolant? This kind of thing helps if you have a broken head gasket or a crack in the block that lets oil and antifreeze mix. But if oil is just dripping down to the ground, don't mess with this stuff! If you can tell us more, we might be able to guide you towards a solution.
 
Okay, today was the day to do a coolant flush and change the thermostat. Unfortunately, it did not go as swiftly as I was hoping. On the thermostat, I first tried to save some time and not take the hoses off of the cover. Apparently this was a bad idea, because every time I put the cover back on the thermostat shifted and fluid would leak out the back. So, I finally surrendered and took the hoses off. Will try to have a non-leaky tstat housing tomorrow.

The second issue was the petcock. Apparently I backed it out too far, because it would not close back up. It was noticeably sticking out from the surrounding plastic on the radiator. I finally figured out I could push it back in, then tighten to turn. But of course, after I had it good and closed, I gave it one last turn and broke it. ;oops: I broke off half the flat part and about a quarter of the disk portion. Good news (if there is some) is that it appears to be closed and not leaking.


So on to my questions...

1) On the thermostat, is there a correct orientation? If so, what is it? The "thermostat" that was in it, was just the top bracket portion... I guess the previous owner decided to cut the tstat in half rather than replace it! :eek:

2) On the thermostat seal, I'm assuming it goes below the tstat... correct? If not, that might have cause my leak problem.

3) Finally, I still need to do a final flush on the coolant system with H2O. I'd rather not touch the petcock again as it seems to be closed and not leaking, so I'm going to use the lower radiator hose to drain. Rather than replace the petcock (can you even replace it?), would it be alright just to smear some silicone sealant all over it and call it good?

Thanks!
 
2) On the thermostat seal, I'm assuming it goes below the tstat... correct? If not, that might have cause my leak problem.
Okay, I'm dumb. Figured this one out, the seal goes around the tstat. Was just back out there and noticed the groove around the inside of the seal. IDIOT!

edit: Answering more of my own questions here that i found in an older thread, but might be good to have all the answers here in one place.

Apparently the petcock is fairly generic, seems Dorman part#61134 is an exact match. Guess I'll see if I can find one in the AM before refilling t.he coolant
 
I had to use one on my ng900, it was OK. Yes, it's not an ideal thing to do, but if you have a cracked block it's not like you need to be fussy anymore.

I don't remember the brand, but the one I used required that I replace the coolant with pure water and sealant, then you let the thing idle for a while.

I used it b/c I had a slow but steady loss of coolant and was suspecting a head gasket. It seemed to do the trick for me.

Can you tell us more about your leak? Do you see oil in the antifreeze? Are you losing coolant? This kind of thing helps if you have a broken head gasket or a crack in the block that lets oil and antifreeze mix. But if oil is just dripping down to the ground, don't mess with this stuff! If you can tell us more, we might be able to guide you towards a solution.
The crack is on one of the threads used to tighten the head. If looking at the engine it's at the top left bolt/thread... My apologies for taking so long to reply I just saw that there where replies to this thread a couple of days ago... I am not losing coolant as far as I can tell but there is a leak in oil that is suttle... About a year ago I took it to a mechanic to get it fixed... He said it was the head gasket so he replaced that, he re-did the head, changed the radiator because it went bad some hoses the thermostat... And it still leaked oil... I had such a huge headache with that guy that I never went back... He had my car for a long time... He did although take care of all the things he said but the issues weren't the gaskets but the crack...
 
And it still leaked oil... I had such a huge headache with that guy that I never went back... He had my car for a long time... He did although take care of all the things he said but the issues weren't the gaskets but the crack...
I'd say if it's an oil leak, then nothing you put into the coolant will help. You might try a patch job. If you can clean the crack very well, some high temp RTV silicone from a car parts store MIGHT slow things down. It won't be pretty though :cheesy:
 
A few tips

Don't mean to resurrect this, but since it's a sticky, I thought I'd add what I learned from just changing a water pump on my 04 ARC (don't ask how tough that was).
1. For those who want to drain a little more (probably not worth it), there is a drain petcock on the water pump. Some 1/4" ID hose helps keep car clean (smaller than the rad petcock which may be 5/16). Hard to reach. I got about 4 qts from the rad, and maybe another 1.5 qts from the pump (out of 7.5 in the system).
2. For the purist who wants to maintain exactly 50/50, buy extra 50/50 instead of distilled water. Use it instead of distilled water for the flush, then refill with 50/50. Doesn't cost much for extra peace of mind.
3. No need to break rad petcock. It takes a little force to loosen 1st time, but pull as you turn ccw, it helps. When closing, PUSH IN before and while turning. It just takes finger-tip force that way.
 
Hey Rob,

I am new here and yesterday did my first flushing ever. Thank you for posting those wonderful pics and simple to follow instructions when you did. Otherwise I would have not been able to find the radiator knob. Greatly appreciated.

Best regards
 
Typically i try avoid any flushing. Just drain and refill... if you want do it 2 times over a short period... same rule when doing my wifes nissan, coolant and even Auto Tranny fluid.

Flushing doesn't always, but can cause issues in fluid changes...
 
Yeah I find it easier to just drain the radiator & refill with 50:50 Dexcool 1x a year when I drain and refill my AT. :cheesy:
 
Typically i try avoid any flushing. Just drain and refill... if you want do it 2 times over a short period... same rule when doing my wifes nissan, coolant and even Auto Tranny fluid.

Flushing doesn't always, but can cause issues in fluid changes...
Hi there, I actually drained the radiator twice: First filled it with a hose (thorough the coolant reservoir) and the second time I just added distilled water after I drained for the second time (in both occasions I let the engine cool off after running it to temperature and the thermostat kicked in). Only then I added a gallon of DexCool but it did not take the whole amount of coolant. As a side note I did notice that some (unknown amounts) of older coolant mix were still inside the cooling system/engine/radiator/ even after I drained the radiator twice.

I was a bit hesitant to do an all out flushing not wanting to cause a pocket of air or something bad, nevertheless I am very curious and interested about your comment above. Can you please further explain? Thank you!

Greetings!
 
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