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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
new here, I've soaked up what I can from this forum and youtube.
My drivers door lock, on a right hand drive Saab 93 2010 seized up in the lock state and I had the fun of taking the door off while closed. I managed to get everything apart, then found a replacement lock at a wreckers. I've installed it but still it's broken.
I can hear the mechanism make a small noise when I press unlock on the remote, but it doesn't make a noise as long as the other locks do when they unlock.

The wreckers part could also be faulty, but is there anything else I need to try before I rip one of these locks apart and "try" to refurbish?
I've checked all fuses and done the unplug the negative terminal for 30mins to reset the comp but doesn't fix.
 

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It should be very straight forward. Since it is the “driver door” and gets the most use I’m guessing the junker lock is bad too
 

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Does it unlock OK by pulling the button and using the key, manually? If so, then the lock unit is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It should be very straight forward. Since it is the “driver door” and gets the most use I’m guessing the junker lock is bad too
Thanks for the reply, could you tell us what the junker lock is, just googled, but nothing came up
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does it unlock OK by pulling the button and using the key, manually? If so, then the lock unit is bad.
Nope, I left it in the unlock position, but pushed it down and now it's locked itself again, pulling up and down on the door pin does nothing. The window console on the door all works and the central lock/unlock buttons under the handle all work (for the other 3 doors)
 

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Re-add the door module with tech2. There's also unplugging the door wiring loom (different than disconnecting the battery) for a few mins. These are both simple to do and take a few minutes total so worth trying before more invasive things. FYI you'll need to relearn antipinch if this works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re-add the door module with tech2. There's also unplugging the door wiring loom (different than disconnecting the battery) for a few mins. These are both simple to do and take a few minutes total so worth trying before more invasive things. FYI you'll need to relearn antipinch if this works.
Oh damn, I thought from older threads I read, changing the lock mechanism doesn't require tech2.
 

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I had a similar issue that my passenger rear door wouldn't function with the remote...giving the door lock error message. I didn't change modules, only did these things & it now works without issue. This may not work for you but it's quick, easy, & most importantly free to try. Unfortunately the electronics in this car all seem to be absolute trash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had a similar issue that my passenger rear door wouldn't function with the remote...giving the door lock error message. I didn't change modules, only did these things & it now works without issue. This may not work for you but it's quick, easy, & most importantly free to try. Unfortunately the electronics in this car all seem to be absolute trash.
Thanks, when you say disconnect the wiring loom, do you mean disconnect the wiring from that door lock or all the door wiring that goes into the trunk?
 

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Just the wiring from that door, they run in the crook of the door & is visible when you open the door. It's one connector per door.
 

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Hi all,
new here, I've soaked up what I can from this forum and youtube.
My drivers door lock, on a right hand drive Saab 93 2010 seized up in the lock state and I had the fun of taking the door off while closed. I managed to get everything apart, then found a replacement lock at a wreckers. I've installed it but still it's broken.
I can hear the mechanism make a small noise when I press unlock on the remote, but it doesn't make a noise as long as the other locks do when they unlock.

The wreckers part could also be faulty, but is there anything else I need to try before I rip one of these locks apart and "try" to refurbish?
I've checked all fuses and done the unplug the negative terminal for 30mins to reset the comp but doesn't fix.
Check a video on YT from THe Flying Mechanic, it shows hot to disassemble and fix the issue, hope this helps you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've opened up my old lock and followed The Flying Mechanics tutorial, now if I plug in the old lock or the replacement one I got, they both make a single clicking sound when pressing the fob unlock. The other doors go click click, and the lock bolts move down then back up. But either of these driver locks go click but nothing moves. Have I just got bad luck and they're both broken or is there somewhere else to look for problems.
 

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The lock actuator is driven by the driver door switch pack (DDM) so it may have failed or needs to be readded as @Bob12312357 said.
 

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G'day Matticus, I've had similar proiblems and like you went to the wreckers first and got a second hand lock. That didn't work and more research showed that there was a change to the lock mechanisms in 2007. My wagon is a 2007 and the lock from the wreckers came from a 2004. So that was never going to work. Then I also dismanted my lock and soldered the motor contacts as per a You Tube video and got it to work - sort of. Now the interior light doesn't work when opening that door, and of course the follow-me-home function doesn't work either. Seems the bus is not identifying that the door is open. Got another lock from a different wrecker, this time from a 2007 model, and will try fitting that next weekend. Thing is, I never thought that the lock might havve to be added with the Tech2, and I have a Tech2 (having 3 Saabs pretty much means it's an essential tool). Will have a play with that first before taking the door apart again and keep you posted. I'm in Queensland, where are you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
G'day Matticus, I've had similar proiblems...
Hi there,
I'm on the opposite side of the island, in Perth. So I bought a brand new lock mechanism from the US, it has 7 pins, my original has 5, but I believe the 2 extra ones are safely ignored and the other 5 are in the same position. Exact same damn problem as with the wrecker lock, central unlock/lock, clicks once, with no movement of the latch.

Does anyone know if there's anything I can do to test the DDM? I've pulled it all out of the door and it seems to work fine, windows work, all the other doors unlock, it's like the lock isn't being supplied the correct voltage info, as like before the door WILL make one click sound, but no movement happens.
 

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You can put a voltmeter on both lock actuator outputs of the DDM and verify that they are switching in both directions. You could also use a Tech 2 to test.
lockfr.png
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
okayyy, we're getting somewhere now. Ripped off the working passenger door and tested the lock on that, works perfectly. Then checked the voltages as the pin numbers change front left/front right, but I couldn't confirm if those schematics from saab wis were in left or right hand drive.

Pin 1 - GND - OK
Pin 3 - 9.7v continuous - OK
Pin 4 - 12v 0.2s when unlock - OK
Pin 6 - NA - OK
Pin 9 - 12v 0.2s when lock - BAD, getting 5-6v reading.

Even though pin 4 is ok, it seems that during either lock or unlock cycle, both movements are required, hence lock and unlock both don't work and only hearing one click, when other locks were doing 2clicks. So press LOCK, the 93 unlocks, then locks. Press UNLOCK the 93 locks, then unlocks.

So pin 9 is connected to pin 23 on J1 which connects to DDM, which goes to one of two ICs an Infineon BTS7740G. Maybe part of this IC is dead, but there's also a bunch of voltage regulators on the board that may be it? Does anyone have a schematic for the driver DDM at all?
 

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I couldn't confirm if those schematics from saab wis were in left or right hand drive
Schematic I posted is for front right door (FR), regardless of steering.
Does anyone have a schematic for the driver DDM at all?
Not I. You're the first one I know of who's looked inside.
 

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Are you sure the three-legged devices in the DDM are all voltage regulators, and not power FETs?
 
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