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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I changed out my xenon bulb, no problem. I changed out my high's Halogen, no problem. I go to insert the ballasts back on and try to turn it, big problem. After countless tries and getting annoyed, I used a bit more force and, yeap you guessed it, the bulb is now hanging on by a thread, it tore off of the light assembly. I cannot believe that the bulbs are attached to plastic, knowing that you have to screw and unscrew the ballasts. What are my options now: Do I replace the entire light assembly ( Drivers side )? Thank you. Aslo, I still have not been able to turn the ballasts to lock it in place, it is just placed there. What did you guys do?
 

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That can't be right. It's real easy to do. What you are referring to is the ignitor, not the ballast. The bulb sits on the ignitor. Were you able to insert the bulb correctly into the ignitor?

In any case, there is a marking on the ignitor. Assume that the top marking is 12 o'clock position. It needs to be inserted with the top marking at the 3 o'clock position and then turned to the 12 o'clock position. Actually I can't remember if it was 3 or 9 o'clock but I do know that you only need to insert and turn it 90 degrees. You may have inserted it incorrectly to begin with.

Sorry to say that you have destroyed your xenon bulb. You will need a new one. Even if you crack the ceramic shielding on the wire, you still need to have it replaced because the crack will cause the return wire to arc.
 

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My xenons were held in the housing with two spring clips. As ep93 said you have to turn the bulb once it is in, then set the spring clips. The ballast then gets a twist fit onto the back of the ignitor. Then attach the electrical connection to the ballast.

I admit I got a bit confused inserting these bulbs. They seem to go in both ways, with the return wire either at the top or the bottom. I looked for instructions to see if anyone specified if it should be at the top or bottom. I found instructions on the web showing it both ways. The Saab WIS actually shows the wire above the bulb. No place seemed to indicate either top or bottom was better. I would have guessed bottom. I have two Osram bulbs in there now, one wire up, one down. Based on the appearance of my old ones (one was up, one down when I removed them) it looks like the ceramic coating fared pretty well. As I mentioned before, my old Philips bulb had cracks in the plastic base, but not the ceramic.

I eagerly await epsilon93 telling me which way the wire should go. Then I can pull my xenons and cover them with fingerprints (provided I don't break them) just to make sure they are in "perfect position."
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The bulb is in correctly, they actually work. Iam actually riding around with them like they are. iam just a bit worried about it. Basically the bulb is in the ballasts and the ignitor is on the bulb but I could not turnt he ignitor 90 degrees. Don't know why. It just won't turn. Then I tried adding a bit more force and the housing broke. How easy is it to change out the housing. I see that there are several on sale on ebay.
 

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From what I can tell the return wire should probably go on the bottom. The main impact of the wire is it can cast a small shadow over the light field. Some might call this effect subtle or negligible, but these are the same psychos who think it's OK if an 8-slice pizza has pieces cut larger or smaller than the accepted 45 degree standard.

I think the shutter on the bi-xenons comes up from the bottom. So it makes sense to put the return wire on the bottom. In the dipped beam mode, the shutter would block the shadowed portion of the beam. In main beam mode, the shadowed part would be the lower part of the field closer to the car.
 

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The position of the return wire doesn't matter. At least the effect is negligible. Becareful wth getting fingerprints and touching the glass on the bulb. The acid on your fingers can cause the bulb to crack when it heats up. Always make sure not to touch the glass bulb (actually it's quartz).
 

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epsilon93 said:
The acid on your fingers can cause the bulb to crack when it heats up. Always make sure not to touch the glass bulb (actually it's quartz).
I had actually read somewhere that the oily fingerprint residue cooks on the glass (quartz) and can leave a black residue reducing light output. I've seen that black film on halogen bulbs I've changed. I've seen the bit about acid residue as well.

I started wiping these bulbs with alcohol pads before I install them, even if they look clean. I don't know if that's the best solvent, but at least it's readily available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wtfwill said:
if you mean the metal piece that connects back on once the bulb is secure.. i had the same problem. i just got it as tight as i could and replaced the rubber cover.. can't figure it out
Exactly, this is exactly what this post is about. What in the hell do we do when we cannot turn the damm ignito in order to lock in place. For now, I just got it in there as much as i could and used electrical tape to make its being held in there. I cannot turn the ignitor the 90 degrees that it needs to be turned in order to lock it in place and hold the bulb nicely
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That is exactly the only thing that I could think of. The bulb be out a bit more than the original.
 

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Here is a step by step procedure on the correct way to replace your D2S xenon bulb.

1) First, remove the ignitor by turning counter-clockwise or anti-clockwise. Photo below shows the ignitor locked.


Photo below shows the ignitor unlocked and slightly pulled out of the latches.


2) Once the ignitor is unlocked, you can pull the ignitor out. DO NOT RELEASE THE SPRING CLIP HOLDING THE BULB.

Photo below shows the bulb still in the projector holder secured by the spring clips. Note the 2 detent/tab at the 12 o'clock position and 2 o'clock position on the bulb. When you remove the bulb you will see the notches matching the detents on the holder.


3) Unclip the springs and remove the bulb.
Photo below shows the holder with the bulb removed.


Photo below shows the ignitor removed.


Note the 4 notches at the ignitor connector to the bulb. They correspond to the ones at the base of the bulb.

Just reverse the process for installation. I was able to take these photos because I have a projector assembly taken out from a broken headlamp assembly when I was doing research for bi-xenon conversion from halogens.

As I mentioned in my previous post, it is really easy. Hope this will help people from destroying their bulbs.
 

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Nice photos, ep93!
There is also a power cord attached to the ignitor which needs to be removed and reinstalled.
 

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I still have not taken a look at this, but does anyone know what needs to be taken out in order to access the ignitors on both sides (battery?, airbox?) My lights just came in today and I will install them in a couple of hours. Thanks.
 

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I had the same problem with one of my ignitors. It wouldn't turn to the "locked" position. I finally figured out why.

Remove the power cable, then take the ignitor out. Around the hole where the bulb fits in, there are 4 small notches that match nubs on the base of the bulb.
Inside that is an off-white or yellowish plastic ring, which also has 4 small notches in it. Mine got spun a bit so the notches weren't lined up. Use a small pointed tool (I grabbed an awl) and carefully spin that plastic ring until the notches in it line up with the notches in the metal of the ignitor. Mine went right on after that. I also found that if the rubber gasket cover that seals the whole thing up is on too tight, it can mess up the auto leveling system. I gave mine a little room and all works correctly. Hope it helps.
 

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I have the same question as Vector-SS - how do you get access to the ignitor? I was all set to follow the instructions here only to realize that I could barely see the assembly and certainly could not reach it. Does one have to remove the headlight assembly to do this? If so, what is the procedure?
 

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sbl said:
I have the same question as Vector-SS - how do you get access to the ignitor? I was all set to follow the instructions here only to realize that I could barely see the assembly and certainly could not reach it. Does one have to remove the headlight assembly to do this? If so, what is the procedure?
Passenger side is pretty straight forward and "easy" to get at. There should be a rubber plug covering where the bulb goes right in front of your airfilter box.

As for the drivers remove the washer fluid nozzle and battery vent and battery cover on the drivers side tight but doable. Unless you have abnormaly large hands.
 

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How does the washer bottle filler remove? Does it just twist out of the rubber grommet? I don't want to break it.

I managed to get the passenger-side bulb replaced but the driver's side is giving me fits for access, even with the battery cover and vent removed.
 

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todd77 said:
I had the same problem with one of my ignitors. It wouldn't turn to the "locked" position. I finally figured out why.

Remove the power cable, then take the ignitor out. Around the hole where the bulb fits in, there are 4 small notches that match nubs on the base of the bulb.
Inside that is an off-white or yellowish plastic ring, which also has 4 small notches in it. Mine got spun a bit so the notches weren't lined up. Use a small pointed tool (I grabbed an awl) and carefully spin that plastic ring until the notches in it line up with the notches in the metal of the ignitor. Mine went right on after that. I also found that if the rubber gasket cover that seals the whole thing up is on too tight, it can mess up the auto leveling system. I gave mine a little room and all works correctly. Hope it helps.
This info in the quote is right on. The key is removing the power cable at the right time. You cannot turn the ignitor with the wire plugged in. After it is all in place, then you plug the wire in. Also, in messing with it you probably have the plastic ring in the wrong place.
 
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