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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks, sorry about being a fair weather member, I gotta pop in more often, anyway, I think I got the wrong rotors from 'the rack' for the front of my '04 Arc.

This is the first time I've messed with my front rotors and I can't figure out if I've got the wrong rotors or if my hub and rotor are stuck together.

I loosened up everything except the larger E-socket bolts on the back and couldn't get the rotor off. Looks like to me that the factory rotor is one fully integrated part, and the new one is cut out in the center. What am I doing wrong?

Also, I have the E18 socket (the smaller one on the back), but I need the bigger one, what size is that?

TIA!

Pics of near rotor and current rotor:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11648864/2012-03-31_13-35-05_349.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11648864/2012-03-31_13-35-27_77.jpg
 

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Take the bolt with the Alan key socket off, there are also 3 16 mm bolts in the back to take the caliper mount off. If it still feels like its one piece then its rusted and needs to be worked off. That's the way it was for mine
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Take the bolt with the Alan key socket off, there are also 3 16 mm bolts in the back to take the caliper mount off. If it still feels like its one piece then its rusted and needs to be worked off. That's the way it was for mine

Thanks for confirming it's not one single piece.

I'm certain however the bolts on mine are e-torx sockets, looks like the E18 is towards the center of the hub assembly and the two larger ones may hold the caliper bracket - maybe E20?
 

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Thanks for confirming it's not one single piece.

I'm certain however the bolts on mine are e-torx sockets, looks like the E18 is towards the center of the hub assembly and the two larger ones may hold the caliper bracket - maybe E20?
Its an E24, and make sure you have lots of PB Blaster because those suckers are on there
 

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just done mine

round the back are
two 7mm HEX caliper sliders these require removal to acess the pads and remove the caliper (the bit with the piston and fluid in) these are covered with plastic bungs

the caliper will come off now and pads
then there are two e20 torx head bolts
these are tighter than a jew in an arabic market
breaker bar time

when these are out the caliper bracket/support comes off
next theres a tiny little torx or hex headed bolt on disc face(where the wheel bolts go) its like 5mm hex of t25 ish torx
remove this and rotor/disc is free to come off

which is an oxymoron as you will probably find yourself smashing ten bales of crap outta it with a soft faced hammer (wear eye protection in case it shatters)
hit it at 3 oclock then toate 180 degrees and hit again

theres a full write up in the 'how to section'
 

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yeah tough little cookie to find huh :p

never mind mate we all time to help guys that make an effort to fix cars themselves
its quite a good write up but i suggested the edit to say e20 bolts as they were on mine and i wasted a lot of cash getting a set to include the e24 i didnt need

make sure the face of old hub is uber cleaned of rust and debris so the new disc sit true on this or they wont bed in true
and will feel like and old set of crap discs/rotors that warped years ago

time is free friend spend it well!
copperslip lubricate the metal retaining edges of pads as well so they are free to slide in caliper bracket for a year or two
tighten the brackets back upto spec torque (think it was 140lbft please check) then tighten a further 30 degrees
 

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All good advice. It sounds like you're going through what I did with my '03 two years ago. The front rotors felt like they were welded onto the hub. PB didn't help here; there was too much surface to surface contact to penetrate. I then tried the rubber mallet -all it did was give me and the car the shakes. Then the sledge hammer - yes, worked. I was going to replace the rotors, so what did I care about beating the H out of the old rotors?? I even resorted to a brick-set for a few strategic blows.
 

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i have had to stitch drill a disc off before now

literally drill a line of holes from outside edge to inner hole by hub then crack her with a cold chisel

now that was a pain for sure
 

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Sledge hammer was also my solution to the problem. Since I always replace rotors when doing pads no big deal. I also use Anti sieze when fitting new rotors.
 
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