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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering others opinions on whether it is worth reparing major rust issue i have. I assume the best option would be to cut out and weld in new panel and i have a friend of a friend that can do this task for about 250-300 dollars but then again id have to repaint so thatd be more.

I do plan on keeping this car for sometime as ive put in tons of money into it already(new suspension,brakes,cooling, maintenance, stuff like that). It has 160k but runs like champ minus annoying squeaks and rattles but mechanically is for the most part in great shape.

Any ideas? Ive attached some pics
 

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You're rusting right where I'm rusting.

I haven't been bold enough to grind it down yet, but somewhere on my long list of "to do" is to address the rust.

My thoughts were to grind it, cover it with an epoxy resin, sand and spray.

Since it's not structural, you could get away without welding it but that's up to you.
 

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Hi
If you plan keeping the car for any length of time the answer is simple (imo)
Weld in new metal.
'Bogging' holes that big is temporary to say the least. It will still need paint anyway. The best filler still absorbs moisture and in a year or two you will be doing it again. This time the hole will be bigger.
Rust doesn't stop growing just because it is hidden under filler :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thats what i was planning on doing myself just to get it to look somewhat decent but then again i dont want to have to redo it again after chicago winter and salt lol.
You're rusting right where I'm rusting.

I haven't been bold enough to grind it down yet, but somewhere on my long list of "to do" is to address the rust.

My thoughts were to grind it, cover it with an epoxy resin, sand and spray.

Since it's not structural, you could get away without welding it but that's up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the car was in phenomenal shape other than the rust and i had another car then i would definitely weld in a new panel but then again i dont know what i want to do yet which is why id like to get some input
Hi
If you plan keeping the car for any length of time the answer is simple (imo)
Weld in new metal.
'Bogging' holes that big is temporary to say the least. It will still need paint anyway. The best filler still absorbs moisture and in a year or two you will be doing it again. This time the hole will be bigger.
Rust doesn't stop growing just because it is hidden under filler :)
 

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While my plan is to epoxy it, I have never seen a bondo patch hold for too long, particularly in the wheel well. A couple years, maybe.

Since I don't know the extent of my rust, I'm hoping it's not as bad as yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ive done bondo patch up work before on one of my integras and it came out pretty ****ty because i was rushed so that didnt hold for 2 long, but i wasnt patching up a hole like i currently have wit the saab.
 

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Is there a short trim piece in that location (or was there?)?

I'm getting some bubbling in that location too (pass side) and I'm wondering why.

EDIT: But, any repair is worth it IMO. Best bet is new metal but a second option is glass fibre and resin. I will avoid Bondo from now on; too difficult to work with.

I don't see repainting as a big issue except on the immediate area and then blending in the respray with successively finer grades of sandpaper and polishing compound.
 

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I'd be much more concerned with rust at important places.
rear shock mounts
gas tank attachments
front struts
brake lines.
Go over the entire car carefully.
All the Saabs and many other makes rust here.
Why?
My 93 rusted at the left rear shock bracket, that all but killed her.
 

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Is there a short trim piece in that location (or was there?)? Yes. Mine is rusting right under the trim piece.

I'm getting some bubbling in that location too (pass side) and I'm wondering why. I originally thought it's because I got nicked there previously and perhaps the repair was bad, but it appears to be a common spot for rust.

EDIT: But, any repair is worth it IMO. Best bet is new metal but a second option is glass fibre and resin. I will avoid Bondo from now on; too difficult to work with. I agree. I've had better results with epoxy resins, but haven't used either in years.

I don't see repainting as a big issue except on the immediate area and then blending in the respray with successively finer grades of sandpaper and polishing compound.
For a hole like this, I might even pop rivet some aluminum underneath the filler so that you have a skeleton to attach to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ya there should be a plastic trim piece there,but it fell off lol. Any i believe my rust started because of a trunk leak on that side from previous owners which was never fixed but thats just my theory.
Is there a short trim piece in that location (or was there?)?

I'm getting some bubbling in that location too (pass side) and I'm wondering why.

EDIT: But, any repair is worth it IMO. Best bet is new metal but a second option is glass fibre and resin. I will avoid Bondo from now on; too difficult to work with.

I don't see repainting as a big issue except on the immediate area and then blending in the respray with successively finer grades of sandpaper and polishing compound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Luckily from the looks of it this is the only major rust im encountering.
I'd be much more concerned with rust at important places.
rear shock mounts
gas tank attachments
front struts
brake lines.
Go over the entire car carefully.
All the Saabs and many other makes rust here.
Why?
My 93 rusted at the left rear shock bracket, that all but killed her.
 

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Is there a short trim piece in that location (or was there?)?

I'm getting some bubbling in that location too (pass side) and I'm wondering why.

EDIT: But, any repair is worth it IMO. Best bet is new metal but a second option is glass fibre and resin. I will avoid Bondo from now on; too difficult to work with.

I don't see repainting as a big issue except on the immediate area and then blending in the respray with successively finer grades of sandpaper and polishing compound.
There is a weld there.
 

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Hmm. I had not noticed that before but any kind of seam, no matter how well-executed seems to rust out with age. That piece of trim there, a "door ding protector", triangular in size is dangling on my 900 by one attachment point and I thought the mounting hole for it was an entry point for water and the sole cause of the rusting. Seems I'm mostly wrong. Good info there.

What needs to be addressed to make the best repair possible, is to file and snip away all the cancerous (rusted) metal in the vicinity so it will not spread once the repair is executed. I'm kind of looking forward to it and am elated that warmer weather is finally here.

Edit: 98se420, how big is the hole there (length/width)? It looks pretty big but hard to tell exactly.

There is a weld there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Its quite big, ill measure later and let u know
Hmm. I had not noticed that before but any kind of seam, no matter how well-executed seems to rust out with age. That piece of trim there, a "door ding protector", triangular in size is dangling on my 900 by one attachment point and I thought the mounting hole for it was an entry point for water and the sole cause of the rusting. Seems I'm mostly wrong. Good info there.

What needs to be addressed to make the best repair possible, is to file and snip away all the cancerous (rusted) metal in the vicinity so it will not spread once the repair is executed. I'm kind of looking forward to it and am elated that warmer weather is finally here.

Edit: 98se420, how big is the hole there (length/width)? It looks pretty big but hard to tell exactly.
 

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After you get as much of the obvious rust removed, use one of the many primer products designed to chemically alter rust. I am not one for melodrama, but if you miss one little tiny pit with rust in it, you'll be doing it again sooner than you'd like.
 

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Do those actually convert the rust? I used one long ago in aerosol form that made all rusted surfaces black so I probably just answered myself there.

I'd also be inclined to break out the Naval Jelly and Muriatic Acid too, in an all-out war on the corrosion but I'm afraid that is old-school.
 

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Nothing wrong with Naval Jelly... as long as you know what you're doing. As I'm restoring my Bullnose, I use Naval Jelly liberally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
naval jelly?
 
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