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Discussion Starter #1
As cars get older and Tech 2 work is not as affordable I have a window fix solution.

Right front window inop on son's 07 9-3. I recently had the driver window fixed by an experienced Saab tech where he replaced the switchpack to regain operability. His check on the right window was there was no communication with the driver door module so we were in for extended work to figure out what was at fault. So I looked into making my own fix.

Since the Saab tech reported that he rarely sees window motors fail, I figured that the motor was not at fault, probably good, so just needed to get power to a replacement switch. To be sure I pulled the door cover (2 minutes) unplugged motor and removed the 3 torx screws for window motor. Now in front of car battery - Used 2 wires with alligator clips attached to the 2 pins on motor to touch the other end of wires on +/- of battery to prove that motor works good forward and reverse.

Bought this replacement window switch:Illuminated 3 Position Rocker Switch with ArrowsUPC: 802269931510SKU: 82334Part Number: AUTSW2. $42 including wire connector & shipping.

Now, how to put this in without getting into a lot of hours and wiring which I'm not particularly practiced in? I knew if there was power in the door I could wire the switch by following a mfgr link to show how to install.

First to find power: Near the window motor there are 2 red & black fat wires (heavier gage) that bring power into the door. The red is power and black is ground. I stripped a 1/2" section of the wires to reveal copper and again used alligator clips to apply power/ground to the window motor 2 leads, reversing wires to watch the motor go forward and back - all good.

The button has 5 leads in a row. The 2 outside pins go to the motor (either one). The 2 middle are ground - wired together and connected to black. The middle is wired to red wire. Note that I bought the wiring connector with the button so it would plug in without having to solder directly to the pins on the button - just plug in. I did need to extend the wires to reach between the button and the red/black striped wire location. I decided to use the existing wire from the window motor going across the door toward latch as it was already heavy gage wire. I crimp connected all wires.

Where to place the button? I removed the switchpack from the surface (hooked existing button) surface trim piece and replugged the elec wires shoving the switchpack loose in the door.
I cut a hole in the below surface black switchpack to fit the new button, installed the button in the plastic piece and cut around the button roughly 1/8 to 1/4" leaving enough plastic to fit into the existing button hole. I used a 4 minute quick setting epoxy (JB Weld) to affix the new button plastic piece into the previous location. A little crude looking but functional. Image attached.

Hope this helps someone get out of an expensive window fix.
 

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DO NOT FOLLOW THIS!
Switch pack is NOT just switch pack, it is one of control modules which contains bus and overcurrent protection for many items.
 

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This looks like a pretty reasonable fix to me for an aging car. 42$ for a switch seems a bit much though!



Mimi, perhaps you could detail out what features one would loose by doing this? I assume express down and up? Those are reasonable features to loose when going to a manual window. Perhaps the cost to fix it right justifies the loss of a few features (to have a working window again)!
 

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Door control module is NOT just switchpack for window, it is one of car bus control modules. Passenger door have tex IMMO control backup.
W/O backup you CAN NOT start car.

If you bypass window control, you can not have any circuit protection for window motor OR door lock.
If you are willing to loose IMMO permanently, go ahead. I will not be able to help with it.

If you want "normal switchpack", buy og 9-5 or og 9-3.
Ng 9-3 is bus control car and any bus control modules can have any control functions to anywhere in car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mimmi is right if you have a normal functioning car and have access to a Saab mechanic with a Tech 2 and can afford the fix. In my instance, the Tech 2 mechanic reported no communication with door module and stated the fix would be expensive to make the window operational. That is the reason I made the repair and made the thread.

Both of the passenger side power door locks were also non functioning so no loss there.

My post did not make any reference to disconnecting the door module in any way. All electrical remains the same except the clipped wires going to the window motor. This is a minimal risk fix that I hope will help others.

How many US cars require hooking up a computer to replace/fix a window button? Saab's door design must have designed with a lot of fear of theft. It's just not an economical design to engage with to fix a 12 year old car.
 
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