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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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They should fit, according to the part numbers they list. I'm collecting the parts to do the same upgrade on my 1997 900, and was looking at those same rotors. One thing to keep in mind is that your spare tire won't fit on the front wheels anymore after doing that upgrade, since the stock spare is only 15", and you'll either have to cut the lip off of your rotor dust shields, or take them off completely. So far I have the dust shields and a 16" spare from a 9-5, and a pair of ATE Premium One 308mm rotors. I just need to get the caliper brackets, once I have a few more spare dollars, and I'll get the whole upgrade done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info once again buddy
cheapest place I found for brackets is rockauto
$48-49 for two shipped to my location
Why didn't you get the Meyle rotors?

I usually buy rotors from maxparts because they are drilled slotted and zinc coated and come with pads
I like the zinc coated ones they have
I think plating is more durable than powder coating or painting
 

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The calipers on the Viggen are slightly different, but they use the same pads, and your calipers will fit on the new brackets. Some people have gone to the trouble and replaced their original calipers with the Viggen (or 9-5 Aero) calipers, but most people stick with the stock ones.

The only reason I went with the Premium One rotors over the Meyle ones is because I have Premium One rotors on the back of my car, and I didn't need a reason to change those out too. :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Should I buy these Meyle rotors:?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pieces-Me...b217233:g:B~wAAOSwPhdU9vr-&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

and Weaver MX719 pads?

OR

these:?
http://maxbrakes.com/i-22800815-elite-xds-series-combo-brake-kit.html

I bought the max kit for my pacifica and it stops well
Also the rotors on a Pacifica tend to wrap, so the slotted drilled might be a good idea. I know there's different opinions on this. I've been reading on Honda forum. Even the seemingly smart people I think are forgetting the complexities of brake rotors/pads

OR

should I get some else?
I have Weaver MX709 on the rear I think and the rotors look good, but I don't think the ABS in the front or rear ever comes on, unless it's snowing
Or stopping in this car really sucks, given the size/weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm having a hard time locating aero brake dust shields.
Not sure I want to pay more than $5-10 for them anyway.

Is there a way I can just modify the originals, so they will be half way descent?
Maybe cut and straighten the edge.
Maybe I can even add something that would function as a lip.

Or should I just stay with 288 mm brakes?
I have 205/55R16 tires, which is kind of big for the brake rotors, I think.
I can buy 288mm drilled/slotted "upgrade" with some better pads hopefully.
I paid $1.86 shipped for the front pads I have now. Forget if they were even branded. I can't get the ABS or lock-up to happen even on a wet sandy down hill slope. Only in snow the ABS will come on.

I like the drilled rotors because people claim they react faster in the rain.
 

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You could just cut the lip off of the dust shield, and you could probably bend them enough to clear, too. I was sure I'd be able to get a pair off of a 1999-2001 9-5 at Pick-n-Pull, since all 9-5s came with the larger dust shields, but apparently they take the wheels off of the cars and then drop them all on their brakes, because every single one has the dust shields crushed on the bottom. I ended up getting a pair from a local guy who was parting out a 9-5. That might be your best bet, seeing if there's someone on Craigslist parting out a pre-facelift 9-5. I finally got the upgrade done on mine. The brakes are better, but they're not hugely better. They do look nice, though. :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The brakes are better, but they're not hugely better. They do look nice, though. :cheesy:
Makes sense:
308/288=1.06944444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 ;ol;
 

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Makes sense:
308/288=1.06944444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 ;ol;
Since it's the area of the rotor that matters you'd want to compare the square of the diameter!

94684/82944 = 1.15
 

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The friction area is the same, since they use the same pads applied by the same force (caliper pistons are the same). It's the distance from the point of rotation that changes that is all, so no need to square anything, just like doubling the length of your breaker bar allows you to exert twice the torque at the rotation point, its a linear (not squared) relationship.

Technically you just compare the radius, not the diameter, but since the diameter is just double the radius in both equations the math balances out.

But you also have more rotor material to better dissipate the heat and there is additional venting for the 308mm rotors too.

You will likely see a bigger gain/difference in performance by using different pad compounds (as long as you correctly match the rotor) vs. just rotor size, but since the only requirement for upgrading is rotors (the price comparison of 288mm rotors and 308mm is negligible) and the brackets (about $15 a piece) there isn't any reason not to do it since the total 'upgrade' price is $30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You will likely see a bigger gain/difference in performance by using different pad compounds (as long as you correctly match the rotor) vs. just rotor size, but since the only requirement for upgrading is rotors (the price comparison of 288mm rotors and 308mm is negligible) and the brackets (about $15 a piece) there isn't any reason not to do it since the total 'upgrade' price is $30.
I can pay $48 shipped for two caliper brackets on rockauto.
Where can I get them for $15?
I was hoping 314mm rotors might fit somehow in the brackets
They are $15 shipped on ebay ;ol;:roll::cheesy:

It's weird how cheap I am with some things and other things I won't think twice about. This is how my mind works. :confused:
 

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I paid $1.86 shipped for the front pads I have now. Forget if they were even branded. I can't get the ABS or lock-up to happen even on a wet sandy down hill slope. Only in snow the ABS will come on.
Gee... I wonder if there's any relationship there.

I like the drilled rotors because people claim they react faster in the rain.
I doubt it. Maybe slotted would clear the water faster but the effect will be minimal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Gee... I wonder if there's any relationship there.



I doubt it. Maybe slotted would clear the water faster but the effect will be minimal.
Bummer.
I like to tailgate.
At least I think that's what the yolkals would say.

The back doesn't seem to stop hella good either.
The Wagner MX709(A) pads and rotors are wearing smoothly, but they don't seem to lock up ever either.
I'm thinking of doing front, but I don't want a lot of nose dive either.
Tried to get front and rear kit, but only front is available from maxparts

Maybe the answer is just to drive safer :cry:
 

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pieces-Me...ash=item541b217233:g:B~wAAOSwPhdU9vr-&vxp=mtr

I have 16 inch wheels and 205/55R16 tires and noticed (when I had to stop short) the car doesn't stop that fast anymore

Just checking: are the calipers the same?

On 195/50R15 tire that came with the car stopped real fast
to answer your original post...

if you put a wheel/tire combo on your car that has a larger circumference it will take a longer distance for your car to stop.

a larger circumference means that you will travel further with one rotation of your hub.
 

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The caliper brackets will need to be painted if you want them to look decent a couple of weeks down the road. I didn't realize that, and mine are already a little rusty. They'll have to come off for a paint job eventually. RockAuto's price is by far the best. I couldn't find anyone else that came within $10.00 each for those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
to answer your original post...

if you put a wheel/tire combo on your car that has a larger circumference it will take a longer distance for your car to stop.

a larger circumference means that you will travel further with one rotation of your hub.
My question was: "Just checking: are the calipers the same?"
I know how wheels work ;ol;


Also resonator is in the middle.
I really should search instead of asking/assuming.
I tend to do that way too much.
Even in real life, I can't find my own stuff :cheesy:
 
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