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9-5 flickering light

Hi everyone-

read thru the post about taping the metal end on the square bosh fuse. Question is will this work on a 06 with the same issue? lights flicker when i turn them on off/on. i removed the DRL fuse several months ago when i got the car. the other day the passenger was flicking pretty bad then it went out. next day it was working again. not sure if i need bulbs , ballast or the control module or if this taping will do the tick. seems a few folks tired it with sucess but they were all using after market lights i think -mine are stock

thanks
 

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They look good but having HID's in the high beams is really not a good idea. They take a while to warm up (my low beam HID's take about 10 seconds to reach full brightness)and cycling them on and off in short amounts of time doesn't agree with most ballasts/lamp systems.
I found that annoying too so I had to figure out a way to fix it...

I bought an inline relay harness that connects directly to the battery, passes through a relay, then through a 30amp fuse, then connects to the ballasts, while connecting to one of the stock headlight wires.

That decreased the flicker but it was still there a little and took a bit to warm up. To solve that I soldered a capacitor to the positive and negative pins on the relay to give it an extra surge of electricity (positive is usually pin 86, negative is usually pin 85.) That solved both problems for me. No need for a large capacitor, I used a 32v 1000uF cap bought at Radio Shack. Just to be safe buy two, if you accidentally solder pos to neg the cap will pop when you turn your lights on.

I can post pics if requested.

Yes, I totally understand what you were talking about now, I went under the car yesterday, immediately found a place to mount the ballast. So, that was the first thing i did.(Mistake) After that i proceeded to install the bulb and realized there is NO way of securing the bulb. And just gave up
I found out the hard way as well. If you don't mind doing some custom work and own a drill or better yet a dremel you can retrofit your stock housing to hold the h1 HID bulb. Just have to get the plastic socket that the traditional 2 prong h1 bulb plugs into and modify it. Cut off the angled back part, gut the female prongs from the inside, and drill a hole though the plastic connector/socket. Pull the wires through the hole and secure the HID bulb with high temp silicone, make sure not to get any on the bulb. You are just utilizing the teeth from the stock socket to secure it. I also had to modify the stock wiring; cut, strip, attach shrink wrap wire crimps and you have a custom harness. Generously apply electrical tape on the harness to keep moisture out. Its easier when you use a inline relay harness that I described above because you only need to modify one of the stock foglight harnesses.
 

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For anyone still viewing this thread. I have a question about the wiring as I plan on getting HIDs. I have gauges that come on when I turn on the interior lights/headlights (when the lighting switch is switched to parking lights or for headlights). I was wondering if I could wire the lighting switch so that I could make the parking lights position turn off all exterior lights so the gauges can have power without DRLs? And leave the other position as is.
 

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I wanted to share my experience in the world of HIDs.

My car is a 2006 9-5 Wagon. It came with factory halogens. To qualify, but most know this already, the 06 - 09s have projector style low and high beams.

I have since added a set of 5k 35w kits to both the fogs and the low beams.
Fogs:

H8 5000k HID Kit
(Ballast Series: Signature Series (35w))
1$59.99 USD$59.99 USDUniversal HID Capacitor (Pair)
1$9.99 USD$9.99 USD

Low beams:

H7 5000k HID Kit
(Ballast Series: Signature Series (35w))
1$59.99 USD$59.99 USDUniversal HID Capacitor (Pair)
1$9.99 USD$9.99 USD

I purchased them from hidextra. Their representatives have been courteous and helpful (Jay in particular).

Now I must say I purchased the capacitors for the fogs and they are being used right now but...

I also bought the capacitors for the lows. As I was installing them, I did the drivers side first, but waited to mount the the ballast, powered up the key and they did not work. I had blown a 15 amp mini fuse (fuse panel under the hood).
From what Jay told me, this is common. So I went and bought a pack of 15s and went at it again. I then powered up the lights and nothing. Now I had the ballast and the attached wiring resting on the front of the car...I had the garage door down to see if the lights came on or flickered or whatever...what I did notice was some smoke.
Well the capacitor was spewing fluid and had gotten very hot. So I called Jay back and he said try it without the capacitors. The lights still were not working so he said check the factory wiring as maybe the polarity is backwards. Sure enough that was the case.
The factory harness connector which plugs into the H7 bulbs has a black and green wire - with the presumption that the green is power and black is ground...NOPE!
So I used the red wire from the HID kit plugged into the black on the factory wire harness and the black from the HID kit to the green on the factory wire connector. The rest of the connections are straight forward with conectors only connecting to certain other connectors...you'll figure it out simple enough.
So I am NOT using capacitors for the low beams. No warnings on the dash and all is good. Until...I decided to use the light switch on the dash to turn them off while the car was on...this caused the lights to strobe and one of the bulbs appear to have blown on me (great!) Well I turned the car off and then back on again and found both bulbs were on and working fine.
So...I did some research hear on SC and found the quick fix to this problem is to find your number 15 relay in the fuse box under the hood, remove it by pulling straight up on the black retaining clip (I used a pair of small needle nose pliers) this allows the relay to be pulled out...then take some electrical tape and wrap the center pin (heard you could also use masking tape as this is a thinner tape and makes inserting the relay back in easier. VOILA no more strobing and full use of the switch.

Now I do have the capacitors in with the fogs but it makes me wonder if that is necessary either. For now I am too lazy to take them off and see if all is good without.

As for what to remove/undo when doing the install:
ON the drivers side I took out the battery and the battery tray. This allowed the cables and maxi fuses to fold over and completely out of my way giving simple access to the back of the headlight.

The passenger side is harder. I removed the tubing for the MAF (post MAF) which leaves the pre-MAF tubing still in place. I took off the silver ring which has the tab on it to hook to a rubber mounting "thingy". This allowed me to smoosh it down so I could see the back of the headlight "a little" more easily. The most important tool for you have when doing this passenger side is patience!!, then creativity...then the actual tools. It is not easy to keep the HID bulb in it's socket while trying to get the retaining clip hooked up. Your head will be looking for a place low enough in the engine compartment to see the retaining clip protruding notches and your fingers should be on high senstivity to get the clips in place. It is fun I must say. A matter of mind over matter ;)

My light output is easily 100% greater than before and I am very happy considering the money I paid for 2 kits. Now as to how long the bulbs and ballast last...here's hoping they are long and prosperous!!

Just make sure you aim the light properly. Both the fogs and lows have height adjusters. Ok just to keep you in the know...the fogs are not true projectors...if you look at them at night up against a building, they do appear to cast a flat beam (they do) but there is some scatter. I have been driving with them for over a month and not one motorists has flashed me...NICE ;)
A perk from this is it does light up every street sign and large highway sign as those signs have some reflective quality to be viewable more easily to motorists. The low beams don't appear to have any scatter. The cutoff is not razor sharp but good enough.
I have gotten out of my car a few times at night on a dark road and gone out in front of my car to check the aim and how it might look to others cars coming the other way...it looks nice and bright and acceptable levels of scatter.
I do still suffer from light envy on all the highline cars out there...most notably the new Acuras and Audis on the road. When they are driving right behind me...their lights still over power mine (amazing!)
All in all though...very happy!!
Oh and the color...candidly there is some slight blue to the 5k. Really the 5k could pass for 6k based on what I have read the colors are supposed to look like. I am still happy even though I wanted straight white...it is really very slight. In time once they break in the color will go complete white...I hope

Hopefull I have covered it here. Ask away if you have any questions!

Oh and thanks to likestosaab for the relay trick!!!!! ;ol;
 

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AAAH!! We are back in business!! HELLS YEAH! Thank you SOOOO much likestosaab! I put a piece of electrical tape over the contact on the dippbed beam relay and they turn on and off perfectly! I really just put the electrical tape on to make sure it would work before I tried cutting the wire or mutilating the end of it in the relay box. Works for now, so I may as well keep it there. Worst case scenario it rubs through. Meh. Thank you again I really appreciate it! Now I have to aim them down a bit so I don't offend oncoming traffic too too badly. I am blinded by every other car on the road with Xenons and the proper projector beam setup so I may as well get 'em back, haha.


Alright, I used the same method as outlined in this post, but my lights are still always on. At all three positions of the switch they come on. I took off the electrical tape in the meantime. Can anyone explain what I might be missing? My Aero came equipped with xenon lights.
 

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I did a HID kit to my 04 9-3. (DRL still enabled, no DRL fuse, not sure where relay is for low beams, though two separate fuses for left/right)

What's interesting is when I shut off the car (with key removed) the lights will flicker alternately left to right. Then after I lock the car they do it for about ten times then shut off.
Then when I unlock the car with the key FOB they start to flicker again :cheesy:
 

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I wanted to share my experience in the world of HIDs.

My car is a 2006 9-5 Wagon. It came with factory halogens. To qualify, but most know this already, the 06 - 09s have projector style low and high beams.

I have since added a set of 5k 35w kits to both the fogs and the low beams.
Fogs:

H8 5000k HID Kit
(Ballast Series: Signature Series (35w))
1$59.99 USD$59.99 USDUniversal HID Capacitor (Pair)
1$9.99 USD$9.99 USD

Low beams:

H7 5000k HID Kit
(Ballast Series: Signature Series (35w))
1$59.99 USD$59.99 USDUniversal HID Capacitor (Pair)
1$9.99 USD$9.99 USD

I purchased them from hidextra. Their representatives have been courteous and helpful (Jay in particular).

Now I must say I purchased the capacitors for the fogs and they are being used right now but...

I also bought the capacitors for the lows. As I was installing them, I did the drivers side first, but waited to mount the the ballast, powered up the key and they did not work. I had blown a 15 amp mini fuse (fuse panel under the hood).
From what Jay told me, this is common. So I went and bought a pack of 15s and went at it again. I then powered up the lights and nothing. Now I had the ballast and the attached wiring resting on the front of the car...I had the garage door down to see if the lights came on or flickered or whatever...what I did notice was some smoke.
Well the capacitor was spewing fluid and had gotten very hot. So I called Jay back and he said try it without the capacitors. The lights still were not working so he said check the factory wiring as maybe the polarity is backwards. Sure enough that was the case.
The factory harness connector which plugs into the H7 bulbs has a black and green wire - with the presumption that the green is power and black is ground...NOPE!
So I used the red wire from the HID kit plugged into the black on the factory wire harness and the black from the HID kit to the green on the factory wire connector. The rest of the connections are straight forward with conectors only connecting to certain other connectors...you'll figure it out simple enough.
So I am NOT using capacitors for the low beams. No warnings on the dash and all is good. Until...I decided to use the light switch on the dash to turn them off while the car was on...this caused the lights to strobe and one of the bulbs appear to have blown on me (great!) Well I turned the car off and then back on again and found both bulbs were on and working fine.
So...I did some research hear on SC and found the quick fix to this problem is to find your number 15 relay in the fuse box under the hood, remove it by pulling straight up on the black retaining clip (I used a pair of small needle nose pliers) this allows the relay to be pulled out...then take some electrical tape and wrap the center pin (heard you could also use masking tape as this is a thinner tape and makes inserting the relay back in easier. VOILA no more strobing and full use of the switch.

Now I do have the capacitors in with the fogs but it makes me wonder if that is necessary either. For now I am too lazy to take them off and see if all is good without.

As for what to remove/undo when doing the install:
ON the drivers side I took out the battery and the battery tray. This allowed the cables and maxi fuses to fold over and completely out of my way giving simple access to the back of the headlight.

The passenger side is harder. I removed the tubing for the MAF (post MAF) which leaves the pre-MAF tubing still in place. I took off the silver ring which has the tab on it to hook to a rubber mounting "thingy". This allowed me to smoosh it down so I could see the back of the headlight "a little" more easily. The most important tool for you have when doing this passenger side is patience!!, then creativity...then the actual tools. It is not easy to keep the HID bulb in it's socket while trying to get the retaining clip hooked up. Your head will be looking for a place low enough in the engine compartment to see the retaining clip protruding notches and your fingers should be on high senstivity to get the clips in place. It is fun I must say. A matter of mind over matter ;)

My light output is easily 100% greater than before and I am very happy considering the money I paid for 2 kits. Now as to how long the bulbs and ballast last...here's hoping they are long and prosperous!!

Just make sure you aim the light properly. Both the fogs and lows have height adjusters. Ok just to keep you in the know...the fogs are not true projectors...if you look at them at night up against a building, they do appear to cast a flat beam (they do) but there is some scatter. I have been driving with them for over a month and not one motorists has flashed me...NICE ;)
A perk from this is it does light up every street sign and large highway sign as those signs have some reflective quality to be viewable more easily to motorists. The low beams don't appear to have any scatter. The cutoff is not razor sharp but good enough.
I have gotten out of my car a few times at night on a dark road and gone out in front of my car to check the aim and how it might look to others cars coming the other way...it looks nice and bright and acceptable levels of scatter.
I do still suffer from light envy on all the highline cars out there...most notably the new Acuras and Audis on the road. When they are driving right behind me...their lights still over power mine (amazing!)
All in all though...very happy!!
Oh and the color...candidly there is some slight blue to the 5k. Really the 5k could pass for 6k based on what I have read the colors are supposed to look like. I am still happy even though I wanted straight white...it is really very slight. In time once they break in the color will go complete white...I hope

Hopefull I have covered it here. Ask away if you have any questions!

Oh and thanks to likestosaab for the relay trick!!!!! ;ol;

I have an 08' 9-5 that Is in close relation.... Doing the relay trick has NOT done anything for me! I'm wondering If I can't block the connection the way others are doing so here with electrical tape..... tomorrow I plan on heading to the local junker to pick up a few relays and try it out by cutting the center. I don't have any Bosch branded relays in my box though, I think I have Tyco.

I'm running Morimoto(The Retrofit Source) 3Five ballasts with the Canbus harness and the newer 5.5K bulbs.

My DRL's are disabled via Tech2, fuse is present. Any other ideas if the relay does not do the trick?
 

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The relay trick to remedy the flicker from the light switch...

All the photos are gone. I have an '06 that I did an Elite kit from RetroFit Source(Miromoto).

I am guessing the big orange relay is the one in question?



Which of the metal pins/tabs should I try taping over?

 

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The relay trick to remedy the flicker from the light switch...

All the photos are gone. I have an '06 that I did an Elite kit from RetroFit Source(Miromoto).

I am guessing the big orange relay is the one in question?



Which of the metal pins/tabs should I try taping over?

I tried tape and bending pin 32 on the relay and still got the flicker. Anyone resolve this in an '06+ car?
 

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Flickering is caused bad ballast or bad bulb, not orange lamp check relay.
I don't have flickering indicating a bulb issue. I get flickering when turning the lights off from the switch due to the DRLs.

I tried the 87a relay trick as well and tried pulling the DRL fuse.

The last thing to try is a tech2
 

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I don't have flickering indicating a bulb issue. I get flickering when turning the lights off from the switch due to the DRLs.

I tried the 87a relay trick as well and tried pulling the DRL fuse.

The last thing to try is a tech2
Tape and bending the 87a tab of the relay on my '06 did not work. Per a suggestion, I broke the 87a tab off completely and that did the trick! Keep this in mind '06-09 owners.
 

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I have a saab 99 9-5 and I'm looking to upgrade my head lights to some HID unit's what
can I do to upgrade my lights. I know I can change the bulbs.
 
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