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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started and stopped my rear brake job today. Gotta wait for a whole new semi loaded caliper from Rock Auto.

WHY you ask?

well, after taking everything apart, whizz-wheeling every mounting surface clean and installing a new rotor and set screw, I put the caliper mounting bracket back on, installed the pads and then...

cross-threaded BOTH caliper slider screws that hold the caliper to the bracket.



YAY.

No local parts store carries one, which is good, because i was getting prices of $150 before core.

here's what a few New England winters will do to JUST the drivers rear brakes (the passenger side and both fronts are fine)

 

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here's what a few New England winters will do to JUST the drivers rear brakes (the passenger side and both fronts are fine)
Well, no wonder it's cross threaded, you were holding it together with a spark plug :cheesy: !

I think that's an interesting observation about the lh side being worse than the right. FWIW, I just did my rear shocks, the rh side was in good shape, but the bolts and mounting bracket on the left were much more rusty and harder to liberate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
more crap hits the drivers side of the car in the winter. other cars throwing debris, etc. On the flip side, the pass side usually receives the wheel-bearing and shock damage from the outside of the road being potholed / damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't own a Tap and Die set, or else I would have...

I got and installed/bled a A1-Cardone 19B2927 and it looked to my eyes totally the same, BUT I think the pads sit a tiny bit off the outside of the rotor. Rock auto lists this caliper (semi-loaded) as for the AERO. In my previous experience, the pads usually sit just to the inside of the outer lip of the rotor...

Did I get and install the wrong caliper? I will measure everything tonight...
 

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On rockauto Aero means calipers for vented rotors. and the other options are for solid rotors. Do you have a gap between two parts of your rotor on the side, or is it completely solid? You can take a pic and upload it if you aren't sure. I know my linear for some reason came with aero(vented) breaks and a family member's aero came with solid breaks. Maybe the same thing happened to you.
 

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that rotor looks like the car is not being driven. :/ rust on the contact surface is not permanant if you daily drive the car. You should look into picking up some premium rotors, the kind that have the electro coating on the hats and cooling vanes
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That was jsut on the drivers rear.. all the other 3 were perfect.the coating on the hats is good, but on the vanes is kinda tough, as they are solid rotors ;)
 

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I replaced a stuck caliper on my rear passenger side with the A1 Cardone from Rock Auto and noticed that the caliper sat slightly different, and seemed to be a little smaller (I have 278 mm solid rotors). Put it on anyways and it works fine.
 

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That was jsut on the drivers rear.. all the other 3 were perfect.the coating on the hats is good, but on the vanes is kinda tough, as they are solid rotors ;)
ah those are the 278mm ones, than coating on the top solid section :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Because i like blaming others for my foibles. Well, that and its a crappy design in my opinion.
 

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You inadvertently answered my question about your rotors. You have solid, so therefore you ordered the wrong type of caliper. The Aero on rock auto means vented. You need to pick up the linear/arc caliper.

Oh also, I know the picture you posted is of the rear driver side, but if the one that you miss-threaded happens to be the rear passenger side, I have an extra caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sooooo I can go out and get the bigger rotor? What size is that? ill just trade in some parts for credit and get the proper rotor... and do the other side next. great excuse to upgrade!
 

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sooooo I can go out and get the bigger rotor? What size is that? ill just trade in some parts for credit and get the proper rotor... and do the other side next. great excuse to upgrade!
You could, but I'm not sure how the imbalance of solid rotors and calipers in front paired with vented in back would work. It would also be a lot more expensive than just a single caliper(obviously).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
one single caliper. Im not a performance driver (anymore) but I dont tink going from a 278 to a larger rotor will make much difference. The master is probally the same part number...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm not proud of that...

I got the vented rotor, bent the dust sheild back a little and installed the bracket, and twisted the piston back in.

HMMM it don't fit.

LIGHTBULB! Ill grind the pads down 4mm (the difference, as now, i get nerdy about it, shoulda been measuring before.) and reinstall.

Turns out my grinding wheel has a bit of a wobble. AND YES KIDS I KNOW THAT ITS DUMB TO GRIND PADS, but i was desperate, its Saturday, and I had no money to go get the proper pads.

Got em to fit.

However my rotor now looks like a rainbow from the high and low spots on the pads.

Lesson learned.

For the other side when I get the other semi-loaded caliper from Rock auto, I will get a new set of pads, and the proper rotor to start...

grrrr

Learn from my mistakes kids.
 
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