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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is this a Garrett T25, T17, T15 or different? I may be faced with having to rebuild one. Thanks.
 

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say again

Is this a Garrett T25, T17, T15 or different? I may be faced with having to rebuild one. Thanks.
Are you sure it`s a 2002 SAAB 900SE Convertible?
Because I think from 1999 the 900 became the 9-3 OG, so in 2002 that 900 would be a 9-3OG :)
if it`s a 2002 SE, the turbo is a TD04HL15....
me thinks :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My mistake

Yes, it is a 9-3. I say it's a 2002, but it's actually a 2003. Given that it's a convertible, the chassis etc is still 2002.

8th digit in the VIN is "K".

So, thoughts on which turbo this is? Thanks in advance.

BTW, sweet car. Asking $7,000 for a 2003 9-3 2.0L Turbo Convertible. No leaks, compression is 185-185-185-185, no leaks, solid body, and smooth convertible. Only issue I can find is the turbo is starting to go. He's looking at a rebuild on that (hence the question), dropping the oil pan for a cleanout and a bad exhaust lifter (or two).
 

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If the seller is not familiar with the sludge problem and request them to have the pan dropped. They will undoubtedly deny the request, so use that and the ticking lifters as a reason to offer $1000 less... Ron
 

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If this was a GT17 I'd say replace it and be done with it. They are pieces of crap but the one you have is a TD04 and those are almost bullet-proof up to around 125k or so. How many miles are on this car?

If he won't let you drop the pan then you can at least pull the valve cover (10min max) and look for signs of sludge there.
 

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If this was a GT17 I'd say replace it and be done with it. They are pieces of crap but the one you have is a TD04 and those are almost bullet-proof up to around 125k or so. How many miles are on this car?

If he won't let you drop the pan then you can at least pull the valve cover (10min max) and look for signs of sludge there.
turbos are supposed to last the last the life of the vehicle
i see original turbos on 300k mile cars that have come through my family's shop
and ill tell you first hand that they're not seized or blowing smoke or anything

now if you dont drive like a normal person, well a turbo can last only a day (same way with a clutch)
 

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The gasket is rubber and reusable. Pull the DIC, remove the bolts and lift it off. Takes 10mins max.

turbos are supposed to last the last the life of the vehicle
i see original turbos on 300k mile cars that have come through my family's shop
and ill tell you first hand that they're not seized or blowing smoke or anything

now if you dont drive like a normal person, well a turbo can last only a day (same way with a clutch)
I agree with the exception of the GT17. That turbo is a piece of garbage and many many people, myself included, have experienced premature failure on the little bugger. It seems that the compressor seals are the weak links on these. I went through two in short order then upgraded mine to a T25 with help from Dave at XSboost turbos.
 

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Since it looks like you are about to do one, I'll give you the quick version of my install.

  • Remove PCV line from inlet tube
  • Remove Serpentine belt
  • Remove 2 top bolts on PS pump and loosen bottom bolt 3/4 way (allows access to the furthest manifold nut)
  • Remove BCV and all tubing connected to turbo
  • Remove heat shield
  • Remove rubber hangers on exaust pipe (front side)
  • Remove downpipe nuts and tie it off to the right to get it out of the way. I used a tie wrap to a hole on the tranny.
  • Remove exaust manifold-to-turbo flange nuts
  • Remove coolant lines and oil feed line from turbo. Loosen other end so that the lines can move around as needed
  • Remove exaust manifold nuts
  • Remove exaust manifold
  • Loosen the hose clamp on the turbo outlet (large hose that leads to IC)
  • Loosen the hose clamps on the oil drain (small hose that feeds back to oil sump)
  • Lift turbo out (turbo shaped thing )
That whole process should take 1-1.5 hrs if you have already soaked everything down with PB blaster prior to beginning.

Reverse the process to install. The only caveat being to make sure you pour oil into the oil inlet before putting the oil line back on.

Here are a few tips for reassembly:
  • Leave everything loose (exaust manifold bolts, oil lines, coolant lines, downpipe, etc...) until everything is in place and back together. Then tighten it all down. It will be much easier.
  • Do not over tighten the exaust manifold nuts. The studs will break.
  • Use antisieze on every nut/bolt that you use
  • Use copper gasket maker on the downpipe flange to get a good seal. The rubber will burn off but the copper will make a good seal.
  • Pour oil into oil inlet before putting oil drain hose back on and verify that it slowly flows through.
  • Make sure all water lines and oil lines are "started" before tightening up any bolts. If they arent, you will have a bear of a time getting them lined up perfect.
  • Make sure you don't drop any of the copper washers when putting the lines back on.
Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
with a K you have the TD04-15
I'm a bit lost in the nomenclature. Is this a Garrett T15, a T17, a Mitsubishi something-or-another. If it's on the way out, should he be looking to rebuild or be on the hunt for a Garrett 25? What fits these?

Thanks for humoring my questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If the seller is not familiar with the sludge problem and request them to have the pan dropped. They will undoubtedly deny the request, so use that and the ticking lifters as a reason to offer $1000 less... Ron
I passed along your suggestion. He got $800 off.
 

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I didn't see the need to create another thread to ask basically the same question. I wanted to know which turbo was in my car? I have an 01 9-3 se vert. I dont mean to thread-jack.


Brian
 

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I'm a bit lost in the nomenclature. Is this a Garrett T15, a T17, a Mitsubishi something-or-another. If it's on the way out, should he be looking to rebuild or be on the hunt for a Garrett 25? What fits these?

Thanks for humoring my questions.
The TD04 is a Mitsubishi turbo charger. It is arguably the best turbo compromise for spoolup time & peak boost. Tuners love the TD04 and often use them in twin turbo applications.

The GT-17 is made by Garrett and is often found on motorcycle engines or used in dual turbo setups. Its a small, low pressure turbo that spools up quickly but peters out equally as fast. You get great off-the-line boost with a fast spool up but it offers little help above 3000 rpm. In a dual turbo setup the GT17 is usually used to get quick boost while a TD04 or T25 is still spooling up. The GT17's have a reputatuon for premature compressor seal failure.

The T25 is also a Garrett turbo and is the "largest" of the 3. It has a reputation for being a slow spooler but builds nice power above 2500rpm. I had one on my 93 and it did have noticeable turbo lag but was a beast on the interstate. The T25 is probably the most bullet-proof turbo on the market.
 

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I didn't see the need to create another thread to ask basically the same question. I wanted to know which turbo was in my car? I have an 01 9-3 se vert. I dont mean to thread-jack.


Brian
Most likely a GT17 but could be a TD04. As asked above, what's the 8th digit in your VIN?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks to everyone for the replies and concerns. Thanks to Frank for the How-To writeup (BTW, if that's your "quick" version, I'm curious and a little intimidated by what your full version would look like :cheesy:). Just a quick update.

The turbo is in fine shape. We dropped the pan and oil pressure regulator, and all looked peachy. The shuttering sensation that we were attributing to a turbo on the way out turned out to be the A/C compressor. This is a fix we are going to be moving onto later, but no need to rebuild this turbo. It's just fine.
 
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