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Which DIC should I get for my 06 9-5? / Cold start issues

1541 Views 58 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  yashi
Trying to find the closest longest lasting cassette to stock, and came up with two options. eSaabParts has one for sale but it's not SEM. Link here.

Second option is Rock Auto's NGK. From what I've been seeing, some have said NGK made the original cassettes. Link here.

I want the closest option to OEM/SEM obviously. My car has been struggling to start below 65F as of recently, occuring on multiple cold starts, it will either stumble and not start, or if I hold the key it will eventually stumble into a very rough slow start. This is the same car that threw a flashing check engine light when I floored it one rainy day. The spark plugs are however brand new and the type the car prefers.

My friends have said it's either starter related (starter is very tired sounding compared to two other 9-5's), fuel pump related (gas gauge doesn't work, unrelated but worth mentioning), or what I think is the DIC due to the CEL coincidence. My MPG has also fallen from 27+ to 26.0 which I find interesting.

Here's a link to three different cold starts.

Thanks!
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I don’t remember replying to you. I mean the effect of placebo, replacing something that might not necessarily be bad, and the car feels better or different when it’s not.

Very unnecessary reply.
 

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If a DIC fails it is definitive, it just doesn't work.
I'm not sure that's precisely true. The DIC in my Viggen had no codes, no clear indication it was bad. But, power was lower than expected and the only unusual thing I could find was high fuel trim. I put a new Orio DIC in and fuel trim went back to normal along with power output.

The 9-5 had a rough idle but generally ran fine. It wasn't until a single random misfire code - that I could not reproduce - caused me to suspect the DIC. Replaced it and both problems were solved.

There is definitely room in the DIC death spiral for issues without concrete proof, like a CEL or no start.
 

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There is definitely room in the DIC death spiral for issues without concrete proof, like a CEL or no start.
Agreed, DIC's fail in all kinds of different ways, what I was trying to say was a test with a placebo uses one working sample and a non functioning sample...that can't work on car parts....over cooked point at this juncture. :giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
New crankshaft position sensor has been installed. Car runs great, pulls great, still got a flashing CEL, this time it turned off before I could pull over (like the first time it happened) unlike when I first installed the new DIC. This is also after confirming the plugs are correct, and torqued down, and the DIC is seated correctly with the plug fully in. I'm thinking fuel related, and I'm told the assemblies are hard to find.

New starter was also put in, I have yet to truly cold morning start it, but it sounds very healthy now and starts without breaking a sweat. Winter should be good.
 

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Flashing CEL could be DIC or a vacuum leak or a MAF issue... Glad to hear the CPS improved things, but it seems like there's more work to do. A flashing CEL will end in an expensive repair pretty quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Update: Car has been running great, no micro stutters when driving anymore. Seems like that new CPS genuinely could have helped out, but now for the bad news. Every time I cold start my car, a big puff of blue tinted smoke comes out, followed by smokey exhaust for 30 seconds. Usually smokey exhaust is understandable but the cloud of blue is worrying. The car never ever did this since I purchased it, I get a starter and CPS and now it's doing this? What the hell did the shop touch?

Chasing issue after issue is getting old really fast. I love every aspect of this car but I can't keep spending every penny I make on it, just for these people to call me and say, "Oh we just found this issue which needs to be fixed."

Ever since it's first visit with this shop (the when I dropped it off because the new DIC gave me a mean misfire), it has been leaving oil spots in my driveway and the bottom subframe? has fresh wet oil on it. This was originally an issue when trying to figure out why I was leaking/burning so much oil, now it's back.

Time to sell the car and get something reliable? I don't think I could find a wagon for the same price with the same power.
 

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Unfortunately as dependable, fun and a joy to drive as these cars are unless you can do maintenance and basic repairs yourself they are not as cheap as a Honda/Yota/GM etc etc to run anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
The tricky part is being able to sell it for a little more than what I paid for it because I put so much into it and got it at an decent price. I can do basic repairs but everything that has gone wrong are things I would never attempt myself. It needs to be running every day, bringing me to work, and not leaking oil all over the place, burning it. I hope I can get at LEAST the price I paid for it, and take the huge loss.

I just can't wrap my head around the smoke issue when it was fine on Thursday. So I assume something was touched, moved or changed. I might give them a call and tell them I want it fixed for free, but I doubt they would.
 

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I might give them a call and tell them I want it fixed for free, but I doubt they would.
What would you want the shop to fix for free? You would have to be pretty specific.

There isn't anything a shop could or would do over the course of one visit to cause your smoke issue.

You might be able to get what you paid for the car if it's running properly, how much did you pay for it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I paid $2000 for it, the car runs perfectly fine, feels much better than it originally did. But it wasn’t smoking until I got it back from their possession. I’ve decided I’m going to sell it and try my best to get 2900 OBO. Maybe 2500? I’ve put over 3400 into it and I’m over it. It still needs 1890 in rear suspension work, front suspension work, tires and an alignment, the manifold leak, and the ACC work.

If I sell it, I can get an auto loan and get a reliable car. This has not been a fun experience to say the least
 

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Nothing is as good at 20+ years old as it was when new, and more often than not cheap used car turns into an nickel & dime affair. You paid $2k up front for probably a $4k car, so it's definitely gonna need $2k of work.

If you are prepared to take on those tasks, sometimes there's money to saved (of course that costs your time...) but - my experience - owning a car more than a few years old and relying on a shop to keep it up will quickly outstrip the cost of buying a new car and making payments. When labor rates were $50 or $60 an hour, it was manageable, but with labor rates at $125 or $150 an hour you only get 2-3 hours of shop time a month before you've made a car payment. I mean, not on a premium car, but on a Toyota or something. Kinda sucks anyway.

Old cars are about passion or gambling. The former always pays off, the latter only if you control all the variables. Like the labor rate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Yeah that's what I've noticed, and I'm not able to afford a brand new car, maybe I could considering I could afford dumping thousands into this car. Regardless it's listed on Craigslist and FB. It'll run and drive all day and night, that's all that matters, just rough around the edges. Hopefully it sells!
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Just sold the car for 2500. The smoking on cold starts has stopped somehow, but there’s a clear vacuum leak groan under half boost. Good riddance to that thing.. Issue after issue. Loved the car, too bad it was constantly giving me issues.
 
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