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you could try to clean the throttle body but I never think that really works. I did have to replace a throttle body on a car that would have a slight hiccup at cruising speed. believe there is a vacuum hose that attaches to the firewall side of the throttle body that gets brittle. Check that. Check the hose and check valve right behind the valve cover. Be sure all vac hoses are good and connected.
 

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2006 9-5 Sportcombi
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Just stopped at Autozone and they said their cheap scan tool can’t read CELs that turn off so that’s great. In other news, actually listening for the fuel pump at start up and it is audible from what I’m hearing. I did my first start of the day with a temperature of 80F and it started slightly slower than it would if it had just ran, so it’s not fuel related.

Time to buy a cassette! That’s definitely the problem, it feels like driving a golf cart if that makes sense, my current cassette is definitely on its way out.
 

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Did Autozone actually use their reader, or made an excuse for not using it?

Even my 10 year old consumer-grade Innova will read pending codes, as well as actual codes.

Find someone willing to put the reader on and check. At worst, you will get "No codes present".
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Of course it was an excuse. I would love to run back out but the only other store is far away and I’m not in the mood to argue with them about it. I should just invest in my own so I don’t play their games..
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
What do you mean by "started slightly slower than it would if it had just ran?" Are you sure you just don't have a cooked battery?
Sorry I was out and about typing that. The battery is brand new. Basically it starts much easier depending on the temperature outside. If it’s in the 60s or below it will struggle to start like in the videos, but if it’s 70+ it will start normally, just slower than if it had just run.
 

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"Slower" is the key word here... Do you mean it cranks longer before starting, or it cranks slower? Slow cranking is the sign of a discharged battery, which will be worse when cold or hot, and better in middle temps.
 

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2006 9-5 Sportcombi
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just a longer start up when cold. The battery is maybe a month old, brand new. The starter never slows down, even when cranking for my long cold starts. The starter will eventually need to be replaced, it’s definitely not the healthiest but it’s works and isn’t causing any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Orio arrived in the mail today. Replaced my old one (date code 2007, yikes) and installed it. Took it for a short drive and the car felt amazing! No little stuttering feeling, then the bad. I did a hard acceleration to see how the car would react, and heard a couple loud knocks, followed by a flashing check engine light. I immediately pulled over, shut the car off and turned it back on. This time the CEL stayed on, unlike last time. I then went back to the same AutoZone and they said the code was "P1300: Ignition Coil 1 Primary Feedback Circuit" but all I see online is generic information from fuel pump, to DIC, to injectors iirc. Any ideas? Sounds like the new DIC is not the issue, and instead there is an underlying issue.

Back to the drawing board. I assume it's the fuel pump after all considering it does this on slow driving into hard acceleration. The fuel gauge doesn't work and the previous owner admitted he specially only used regular. Not sure if that makes any difference but I assume the car had many many years of regular fuel through it.

Regardless I'll bring it to one of my local Saab shops and I'm sure they'll figure it out. I needed the fuel pump replaced anyways. I also wanted all new vacuum likes somewhere down the road, maybe sooner than later haha.
 

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2006 9-5 Sportcombi
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Brought to a new shop. Plugs were loose somehow, vacuum hose from intake to fuel pressure regulator split, had that replaced.

Brake booster pipe intake bushing needs to be replaced
Crankshaft position sensor looks like a Chinese cheapo, colors don't match with the plugs I guess
Starter needs to be replaced
and acc bypass valve leaking/installed poorly

Top priority is probably the crankshaft position sensor, probably the reason it's acting up, the DIC is fine and genuine and not a found issue. Also going to get the starter replaced, he said it struggled to start this morning again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
All in all that would help get everything small fixed, and if the problem occurs again after all this is fixed, then it’s appropriate to chase different problems, but as for right now I’ll run out of money really fast if I ignore these issues and tackle anything else.

So next Friday I’ll get these things done. The car hasn’t acted up since that night which is good I guess.
 

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Not directly relevant to the thread, but would adaption runs be appropriate when fitting a used DIC?

I found a 99,000 mile T5 at the scrapyard, no visible damage in the resin/electronic components, and it runs fine from idle to firewalled. The car is stage one and the boost needle goes into the yellow/red segment. I have a feeling it went slightly higher into the red with the DIC I took off.

Summary - does the ECU need to get accustomed to the the "new" DIC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Who knows, maybe the original DICs are special? I doubt it. I mean my car had no issues with it's original DIC with 214k on it. Maybe it's all just placebo?
 
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