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Which DIC should I get for my 06 9-5? / Cold start issues

1544 Views 58 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  yashi
Trying to find the closest longest lasting cassette to stock, and came up with two options. eSaabParts has one for sale but it's not SEM. Link here.

Second option is Rock Auto's NGK. From what I've been seeing, some have said NGK made the original cassettes. Link here.

I want the closest option to OEM/SEM obviously. My car has been struggling to start below 65F as of recently, occuring on multiple cold starts, it will either stumble and not start, or if I hold the key it will eventually stumble into a very rough slow start. This is the same car that threw a flashing check engine light when I floored it one rainy day. The spark plugs are however brand new and the type the car prefers.

My friends have said it's either starter related (starter is very tired sounding compared to two other 9-5's), fuel pump related (gas gauge doesn't work, unrelated but worth mentioning), or what I think is the DIC due to the CEL coincidence. My MPG has also fallen from 27+ to 26.0 which I find interesting.

Here's a link to three different cold starts.

Thanks!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So basically pick from the two I posted. I'm just afraid to spend the money if it turns out it was something else. I'm sure the car does need it- surely it's not fuel related because the car starts up quick when it's warm, it's only cold starts that are the issue. Today took three tries to start it, so it's only getting worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Going back to your cold start issues, do you hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key to the on position before you turn it to the start position? Second thing, You may be losing fuel pressure overnight. You can rent for free a fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone- check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail before, during and after starting. It should be in the 35-40 pound range
Sorry for the late reply, I didn't receive an email for your comment, but I can't say I hear anything particular but I believe a few noises can be heard. I was told to wait longer to start the car and see if that changes anything but always turned the key to the on position, waited for the system check to clear, and turn off the ACC. That should be enough time but maybe I can swing by tomorrow and grab one.

I've noticed when driving, at really any throttle position, and even coasting, the car feels like it's stuttering. Just barely noticeable but no other vehicle I've driven feels like this, basically doesn't drive smooth. Very annoying because this can still be either cassette and or fuel related.

As for the code yeah I should get that looked at first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Funny you say that, I just replaced the throttle cable cover. I assume there’s a plug I can clean in the mean time? It’s that or a vacuum leak which I assume is possible as those cruddy old pipes age.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Just stopped at Autozone and they said their cheap scan tool can’t read CELs that turn off so that’s great. In other news, actually listening for the fuel pump at start up and it is audible from what I’m hearing. I did my first start of the day with a temperature of 80F and it started slightly slower than it would if it had just ran, so it’s not fuel related.

Time to buy a cassette! That’s definitely the problem, it feels like driving a golf cart if that makes sense, my current cassette is definitely on its way out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Of course it was an excuse. I would love to run back out but the only other store is far away and I’m not in the mood to argue with them about it. I should just invest in my own so I don’t play their games..
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
What do you mean by "started slightly slower than it would if it had just ran?" Are you sure you just don't have a cooked battery?
Sorry I was out and about typing that. The battery is brand new. Basically it starts much easier depending on the temperature outside. If it’s in the 60s or below it will struggle to start like in the videos, but if it’s 70+ it will start normally, just slower than if it had just run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just a longer start up when cold. The battery is maybe a month old, brand new. The starter never slows down, even when cranking for my long cold starts. The starter will eventually need to be replaced, it’s definitely not the healthiest but it’s works and isn’t causing any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Orio arrived in the mail today. Replaced my old one (date code 2007, yikes) and installed it. Took it for a short drive and the car felt amazing! No little stuttering feeling, then the bad. I did a hard acceleration to see how the car would react, and heard a couple loud knocks, followed by a flashing check engine light. I immediately pulled over, shut the car off and turned it back on. This time the CEL stayed on, unlike last time. I then went back to the same AutoZone and they said the code was "P1300: Ignition Coil 1 Primary Feedback Circuit" but all I see online is generic information from fuel pump, to DIC, to injectors iirc. Any ideas? Sounds like the new DIC is not the issue, and instead there is an underlying issue.

Back to the drawing board. I assume it's the fuel pump after all considering it does this on slow driving into hard acceleration. The fuel gauge doesn't work and the previous owner admitted he specially only used regular. Not sure if that makes any difference but I assume the car had many many years of regular fuel through it.

Regardless I'll bring it to one of my local Saab shops and I'm sure they'll figure it out. I needed the fuel pump replaced anyways. I also wanted all new vacuum likes somewhere down the road, maybe sooner than later haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Brought to a new shop. Plugs were loose somehow, vacuum hose from intake to fuel pressure regulator split, had that replaced.

Brake booster pipe intake bushing needs to be replaced
Crankshaft position sensor looks like a Chinese cheapo, colors don't match with the plugs I guess
Starter needs to be replaced
and acc bypass valve leaking/installed poorly

Top priority is probably the crankshaft position sensor, probably the reason it's acting up, the DIC is fine and genuine and not a found issue. Also going to get the starter replaced, he said it struggled to start this morning again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
All in all that would help get everything small fixed, and if the problem occurs again after all this is fixed, then it’s appropriate to chase different problems, but as for right now I’ll run out of money really fast if I ignore these issues and tackle anything else.

So next Friday I’ll get these things done. The car hasn’t acted up since that night which is good I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Who knows, maybe the original DICs are special? I doubt it. I mean my car had no issues with it's original DIC with 214k on it. Maybe it's all just placebo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I don’t remember replying to you. I mean the effect of placebo, replacing something that might not necessarily be bad, and the car feels better or different when it’s not.

Very unnecessary reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
New crankshaft position sensor has been installed. Car runs great, pulls great, still got a flashing CEL, this time it turned off before I could pull over (like the first time it happened) unlike when I first installed the new DIC. This is also after confirming the plugs are correct, and torqued down, and the DIC is seated correctly with the plug fully in. I'm thinking fuel related, and I'm told the assemblies are hard to find.

New starter was also put in, I have yet to truly cold morning start it, but it sounds very healthy now and starts without breaking a sweat. Winter should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Update: Car has been running great, no micro stutters when driving anymore. Seems like that new CPS genuinely could have helped out, but now for the bad news. Every time I cold start my car, a big puff of blue tinted smoke comes out, followed by smokey exhaust for 30 seconds. Usually smokey exhaust is understandable but the cloud of blue is worrying. The car never ever did this since I purchased it, I get a starter and CPS and now it's doing this? What the hell did the shop touch?

Chasing issue after issue is getting old really fast. I love every aspect of this car but I can't keep spending every penny I make on it, just for these people to call me and say, "Oh we just found this issue which needs to be fixed."

Ever since it's first visit with this shop (the when I dropped it off because the new DIC gave me a mean misfire), it has been leaving oil spots in my driveway and the bottom subframe? has fresh wet oil on it. This was originally an issue when trying to figure out why I was leaking/burning so much oil, now it's back.

Time to sell the car and get something reliable? I don't think I could find a wagon for the same price with the same power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
The tricky part is being able to sell it for a little more than what I paid for it because I put so much into it and got it at an decent price. I can do basic repairs but everything that has gone wrong are things I would never attempt myself. It needs to be running every day, bringing me to work, and not leaking oil all over the place, burning it. I hope I can get at LEAST the price I paid for it, and take the huge loss.

I just can't wrap my head around the smoke issue when it was fine on Thursday. So I assume something was touched, moved or changed. I might give them a call and tell them I want it fixed for free, but I doubt they would.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I paid $2000 for it, the car runs perfectly fine, feels much better than it originally did. But it wasn’t smoking until I got it back from their possession. I’ve decided I’m going to sell it and try my best to get 2900 OBO. Maybe 2500? I’ve put over 3400 into it and I’m over it. It still needs 1890 in rear suspension work, front suspension work, tires and an alignment, the manifold leak, and the ACC work.

If I sell it, I can get an auto loan and get a reliable car. This has not been a fun experience to say the least
 
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