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Sorry I know this has been beat to death over and over again. I feel it's time for better brake pads or large Calibers and Rotors but first I want to try better pads. I want the opinion of those that have used EBC Red Stuff, Yellow & Green. My car has been modified with larger down pipe, Larger Turbo, Boost Controller, Cross flow intercooler, BOF, Lowered with Eibach Springs and Bilstein Sport Shock, Rack Brace, 22mm Rear Sway Bar, slotted & Vented Rotors. The speed is awesome but braking is a bit touchy. Reading the red stuff it seems that would be the better choice but i'm not sure. I do not race on the track just street but I get over 120mph at times. Thanks For Your Input.
 

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i heard good this bout hawk hps but i had them with autozone rotors and was very unhappy with them IMO. Now I have porterfeild rs4 pads with brembo gs slotted rotors and am very happy with them. I was looking at ebc red stuff and was really close to getting them but kept reading reviews saying they need to warm up on cold starts. IMO
 

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I tried the Green Stuff over a few years. I hated them as my rotors warped twice. Put back standard issues & plenty of dust but no rotor issues.

Cheers M.
 

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My recommendation is the Akebono Ceramics they need to warm up a little but its not a big issue (for me at least) and combined with my Zimmerman rotors they scrub speed better than my friends 4 piston brembo system.
 

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Akebonos are great, however I prefer Centric Posi-Quiet "105." Series ceramic pads.
I've sold both for over 10 years and I now always use the centrics.
 

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Akebono Ceramics with Autozone rotors, and Hawk HPS with Brembo rotors have had great results with multiple hard 130mph+ stops over the years

I've hear the ebc yellows and reds are pretty good just never used them
 

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I hated the Hawk HPS, and my *****ing about them is notorious:lol: If you see speeds above 90mph and foresee situations where you need to stop NOW, then I'd say go with the yellow stuffs. I glazed the Hawks no sweat. The yellow stuff's dust like a mofo, which for me is inconsequential...
Green stuffs aren't so good IMHO. The Yellow's brake about stock when cold and when hot, they stop the hell outta the car.
YMMV
-Cm
 

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I hated the Hawk HPS, and my *****ing about them is notorious:lol: If you see speeds above 90mph and foresee situations where you need to stop NOW, then I'd say go with the yellow stuffs. I glazed the Hawks no sweat. The yellow stuff's dust like a mofo, which for me is inconsequential...
Green stuffs aren't so good IMHO. The Yellow's brake about stock when cold and when hot, they stop the hell outta the car.
YMMV
-Cm
i have a feeling that you had a bad batch on the HPS because they are amazing at fade resistance with 100mph+ to 55mph hard
 

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Lets not forget that fade is also caused by fluid and a little from the rotors.
Are you sure about that? Is there evidence to back that up?

The reason I ask (and I'll note that I have no idea) is that the last time I did an install I had some issues... so I decided to do a full race bedding. I went out on a quiet road with a high speed limit and did ten 60 to 0 stops in a row with maybe a mile or so between stops.

Somewhere around stop # 9, I experienced fade. It sure felt like the system was still working "properly", there was just no grip and no slowing for a few moments. (Uncomfortable feeling!). My rotors were hot enough after this procedure that they actually turned blue from the heat.

[My new logo is "when breaking in brakes, if they ain't blue, you ain't through!". ]
 

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Are you sure about that? Is there evidence to back that up?
there is plenty of evidence all over the place to back that up. every pad and material has max temperature, every fluid has a boiling point, and every rotor carries heat differently.

hi pad temp and low fluid temp = boiling the fluid before maxxing the pad = **** your pants moment (step on the pedal and it goes to the floor)

exceeding the pad temp limit will also lead to stepping on the pedal and going to the floor. but it will recover much faster if you go easy for a minute than boiled fluid will.

this is boiled fluid at 120mph (watch him pump the pedal)

 

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But here's my question: If the pedal feels firm but you have serious fade... then it's not the fluid, correct? It's the pads or rotors?
 

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But here's my question: If the pedal feels firm but you have serious fade... then it's not the fluid, correct? It's the pads or rotors?
if the pedal is decently firm you exceeded the pads temp. a rotor doesnt fade, its just contributes to the heat issue buy not dealing with heat efficiently ie a factory straight veined rotor. i have curved vane 1 pieces waiting to go on the evo. once you approach 100mph the vanes act as a centrifugal pump and move out from the hat out through the edges helping to cool them.
 
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