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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m trying to keep my 900 rust free. Here’s my list of places to watch out for rust appearing. Are there any more?
Sides of bonnet around where badges are attached, rusts from inside.
Front edge of bonnet, probably from untreated stone chips.
Bottom of doors inside car, where lower run of door seal is attached.
The petrol flap, inside, where it’s double thickness.
Battery tray in turbo.
The part of the fore and aft Z beams where the steering rack is secured, visible from under bonnet.
Front edge of front crossmember, just behind the bumper.
Front lower of rear wheel arch, where the protective patch is riveted.
Wheel arches, behind the edge trim. probably due to stone chips or poor accident repair.
Rear side door where the quarter light divider meets the main part of the door.
Tailgate hinges on 3/5 door cars.
Front part of rear side window on 1993 2&3 door cars.
Fred
 

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Mine had rusted thru' Front Centre Plate,Front Inner wings,Front Outer Wings,Scuttle Panel,Front Doors,Rear Doors,
"B" Pillar Bottoms,Rear Wheel Arches,Rear Inner Arches,Rear Inner(Inner)Arches(The bit where the waxoyl plugs are),Spare Wheel Well,
Tailgate,Sills,Sunroof Hatch.
The Bonnet,Roof,Floor etc. were all o.k.!!!
Steve H
1979 900 Turbo
251820 miles
Now nearly finished after 6 year restoration,rebuild,revamp.
 

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The only rot I've found is localised, but bad, on the inner rear wheel arch, down in the spare wheel well. Only an inch or so square, but if I get a screwdriver near it, it'll go through, I'm sure. I was too lazy when I bought the car and took it's overall appearance as indicative of condition. Doh! Still, no disappointments with the rest of it.
Also little surface corrosion on the doors, easily sortable, but not serious, structural rust. (I've had many Fiats, so know all about it..)
 

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My '84 900 has rusted on the seam which runs down the outside of the front wheel arches (i.e. you can see it when you lift the bonnet). It's only gone on the offside (R/H drive car) though. Only really surface rust though so I've rubbed it down, used some Jenolite rust treatment and slapped some Hammerite Anti-rust primer on.
 

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My saab has been in hot beverly hills weather all it's life an for some reason has rust on the chrome strips underneath the plastic which goes around the various windows. I'm just gonna fix that chrome and paint it black though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To SteveH,
I am awed by the amount of welding, I thought only 2 stroke 96's ever got that bad. Do you have any photo's?, Simon should post them as a dire warning to all those that neglect their rustproofing.
My pride and joy is only 10 years old, so the aim is to stop it turning into a welding case in the next 10 years. What I'm chasing is the odd little corners where the serious problems start. Of the ones you listed I didn't understand the sills and B pillar, these look rock solid on 900s i've seen. There's a lap joint where the pillar joins the sill on the 4 door, Is that it?
On the same topic. I have a few pages from the 99 Saab service manual on where to reapply rustproofing oil. Has any got a copy of the same info for the 900? It's should be in section 1 of the official manual.
Fred
 

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1979 was a particularly bad year for 900's, poor underseal and dodgy water based paints usually meant an early demise!

Most '82 and later cars are much better
 

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I've got the complete factory service manual, it's in my mother's 9000t right now. I'll run out and get it after I wake up and I might even do some rustproofing today!

bazil burns
 

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Can someone please explain why UK Saabs rust so badly?? In my observation/experience North American Saabs rust far less.. even in places like Eastern Canada where the local road authorities dump 20 million (yes it's true)tons of salt on the roads every winter, Saabs seem to resist for much longer than other cars.
Perhaps the UK market was sold substandard models??
 

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Perhaps it's the weather in the island. High humidity has a way of making everything soggy in a car...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't think they do rust more than anything else here. They certainly rot a lot less than any contemporaries from the 80's from ford or BL. Maybe it's just people keep them for longer.
The others have caught up since though, haven't seen any 5 year old fiats with holes in the wings recently.
Fred
 

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Fred,
Sills were very thin at front waxoyl plugs,& "B" Pillars were rotted out so bad there was nothing from waxoyl plug downwards!!,(about two inches).
My car is 5 door BTW.
Steve H
 

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On the subject of rust, I saw an F-reg 9000 at Membury services yesterday that was in a terrible state, all doors rusting, front and rear wings, wheel arches, even the roof!!
 

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Watch out for rust on the lower front suspension `A arms` which can collect muck and keep it there. If it fails it`s a lot more serious than a bit of welding!
 

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My t16 ('84) has minor surface rust on almost every panel, a job and a half.
Perversely, my '80 GLe has absolutely no rust anywhere. I recently stripped the interior to sell on, and couldnt find one tiny spot of the dreaded brown stuff.

John.

p.s. the GLe is for sale (minus interior of course.)
 

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I had an 87 9000se I scraped it because of the rust
all the doors had rusted top and bottom all the wheel arches had gone the roof around the sunroof panel was through
car still ran like a dream though
my 87 900 has hardly any rust
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Resurrected this thread as I found a few more rusty spots while changing bushes on the rear suspension, All worth some attention when the waxoyl is to hand.

1/ The rubber bracket which secures the back end of the aero side skirt inside the front of the rear wheel arch. This is held by two T30 screws into the wheel arch at the top and some self tappers into rusty spire nuts on the plastic skirt. If the rubber part bulges out between the two screws then it might be worth a closer look. I found a small lacy rust hole under the rubber one side, and a big wet blister in the underseal on the other. Looks like the trapped dirt keeps the moisture there.
I’m thinking about sticking the rubber back to stop the dirt getting behind it?

2/ The top of the rear coil spring and the bump stop are both supported by a plate behind the centre of the inner rear wheel arch. From the axle tunnel side there’s a 30mm space above this plate. The seams at the back of this space, which is behind the beam member that carries the shocker, are corroding nicely. The original paint seems very thin. This is structural, so it’s worth cleaning up. You can probably only see into this space if you happen have the axle out, but spraying it blind won’t do any harm.

3/ The welds that secure the panhard rod mounting bracket to the body are also corroded, just at the paint blistering stage.
 

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I have an 86 900S and the only rot i have is inside the bonnet, and one wheel arch under the lip-molding.
 

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The only place my 86 900 (400K when I sold it in July) ever rusted was in spare tire compartment left side wheel well (small area in corner) and it never went through.
Living in Vermont (rust capital of the world) a sprayed undercoating with used motor oil does the trick. It is applied everywhere: inside doors, wheel wells, bonnet, quarter panels, and complete underside, engine compartment For me an ounce of prevention was worth a pound of cure
and for $50 and a little mess it was well worth it!
 
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