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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey i'm trying to moddify a pressure bleeder to hook up to a brake reservoir, but noboday has a cap that i can find, does andyboday know where i can find one or know of a cap that could fit well enough for the job? thanks
 

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The standard one in the Gunsons ezibleed fits. Otherwise could you not modify a standard cap from a breakers? Some sort of flanged tube, rubber washer and lots of chemical metal or epoxy putty.
 

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I found my std radiator tester pump will just fit inside the master, alowing for a very low pressure to be applied to the res. No adaptor needed. This is for the std flange type radiator cap adaptor on the pressure pump. The drawback is it doesn't replace the fluid while your bleeding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the reply's the ezibleed looks pretty useful, but would'nt i have to buy the pressure bleeder as well? what im trying to construct is somthing like this http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm except i was thinking of drilling a hole for a tire tube valve to hook up to a bicycle pump, although i do have a water sprayer as well, i just think the cap could be reused if i put the tire valve with the cap on.

but i also just read this bit of info as well : European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM Brake & Clutch System Bleeder Fits all vehicle with 45mm threaded reservoir cap Motive Products European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM features Custom-machined aluminum cap and deluxe swivel fitting. Comes with an extra length of high grade poly urethane tubing that won't cloud or crack with exposure to brake fluid. Works on most European cars, including Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Fiat, Mercedes, Peugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps....... does this mean that a cap from a volvo or bmw or VW would fit on my saab?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the reply's the ezibleed looks pretty useful, but would'nt i have to buy the pressure bleeder as well? what im trying to construct is somthing like this http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm except i was thinking of drilling a hole for a tire tube valve to hook up to a bicycle pump, although i do have a water sprayer as well, i just think the cap could be reused if i put the tire valve with the cap on.

but i also just read this bit of info as well : European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM Brake & Clutch System Bleeder Fits all vehicle with 45mm threaded reservoir cap Motive Products European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM features Custom-machined aluminum cap and deluxe swivel fitting. Comes with an extra length of high grade poly urethane tubing that won't cloud or crack with exposure to brake fluid. Works on most European cars, including Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Fiat, Mercedes, Peugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps....... does this mean that a cap from a volvo or bmw or VW would fit on my saab?

also where could i find a std pressure pump, i did a search and nothing showed up
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the reply's the ezibleed looks pretty useful, but would'nt i have to buy the pressure bleeder as well? what im trying to construct is somthing like this htp://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm except i was thinking of drilling a hole for a tire tube valve to hook up to a bicycle pump, although i do have a water sprayer as well, i just think the cap could be reused if i put the tire valve with the cap on.

but i also just read this bit of info as well : European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM Brake & Clutch System Bleeder Fits all vehicle with 45mm threaded reservoir cap Motive Products European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM features Custom-machined aluminum cap and deluxe swivel fitting. Comes with an extra length of high grade poly urethane tubing that won't cloud or crack with exposure to brake fluid. Works on most European cars, including Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Fiat, Mercedes, Peugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps....... does this mean that a cap from a volvo or bmw or VW would fit on my saab?
 

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I have an old mc from an 80's e30 BMW out back. I can check and see if it fits...pretty sure it will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks id appreciate it, think i might go to my local pull a part and jack one from the euro section, also i couldnt find a "std radiator tester pump" any more info on where i could find one?
 

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Well must'a used the cap from the e30 reservoir when I changed the mc on it but I can tell you with 100% certainty that the cap from my 84 fit nicely on the reservoir for the e30 mc. I'm sure any euro car you find in the boneyard will fit it.
 

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thanks for the reply's the ezibleed looks pretty useful, but would'nt i have to buy the pressure bleeder as well? what im trying to construct is somthing like this htp://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm except i was thinking of drilling a hole for a tire tube valve to hook up to a bicycle pump, although i do have a water sprayer as well, i just think the cap could be reused if i put the tire valve with the cap on.

but i also just read this bit of info as well : European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM Brake & Clutch System Bleeder Fits all vehicle with 45mm threaded reservoir cap Motive Products European Black Lable POWER BLEEDERTM features Custom-machined aluminum cap and deluxe swivel fitting. Comes with an extra length of high grade poly urethane tubing that won't cloud or crack with exposure to brake fluid. Works on most European cars, including Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Fiat, Mercedes, Peugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps....... does this mean that a cap from a volvo or bmw or VW would fit on my saab?

No, the eezibleed uses the spare tyre for air pressure, Tell the truth it's probably the best option for non-proffessional mechanics. I've had one for years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well i found 4 fitting caps from various volvo's from the junk yard and fitted them , one with a tire valve and the other with a 1/4inch hose piece, we'll see how it holds up
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
back again, hopefully someone can tell me where the bloody bleed nipple is, i found this pic here htp://jope.fi/saab/www.quasimotors.com/clutch_bleed.htm, but cant seem to find it on mine still, the only idea of where i think it is, is at the front of the car, below the air box tube, below that there is a plastic shield, can anyone tell me if thats the correct location? thank
 

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Uh, that appears to be a traverse mounted engine installation. Bleed fitting for the slave cylinder is a 13mm fitting just above the point where the line enters the slave cylinder. It will be easily visible on a classic 900, and under the black plastic clutch cover. Your illustration referenced shows a window and IIRC the tubing run is the reverse of a classic 900, along with the slave in the pic being inside of a casting, not under a plastic cover.
 

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Looks like a 9k from the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·


ok so i got the circlip off of the master cylinder, but it seems that the pushrod isnt coming out, i tried the push and release method with no luck so now im trying to take out the entire cylinder, i got everything disconnected but this final nut that attaches at the end of the cylinder (shown in the pic above) i can get a good grip on it but it doesn't budge,,, does this nut come off with the left loosen method or am i doing somthing wrong here,,, if anyone could tell me a better method of getting the push rod out you will inherit my praise
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
also right click where the image is supposed to be and select open image in new tab so you can view it, thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·


also also pretty much as soon as i got the circlip off this part came off as well, isn't it supposed to stay attached to the push rod or did i just break somthing
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·



update:
ok i got the push rod out and the spring broke, to my knowledge the seals look fine, how would i know if its the slave cylinder instead, i heard it is alot harder to rebuild that ,
 

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Can't view your pix by any method...

The seals don't have to show an obvious split--they can simply be worn out and not holding pressure. To make rebuilding they MC worth doing you need a cylinder hone and a micrometer to measure the diameter of the bore.

If you don't hone the cylinder your new seals will wear out quickly. If the bore is too big the seals won't seal at all...
 
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