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What's the best way to store a Saab? Need Advice

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4K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  bearclaw 
#1 · (Edited)
The people on this site have been a great help to me in the past, and now I have one more question for ya: How should I properly prepare my 1999 9-3 for long-term storage?

I've done google searches and there are discrepancies on various points, especially on whether to disconnect/remove the battery. Plus alot of the recommendations are for classic vintage cars which don't apply to modern cars, then the modern car guys get on and tell you to do some of the things the vintage guys said don't and overall it's just alot of information to sort through, let alone decide which is best for my Saab.

So if anyone has some good advice, please help me out. I've never stored a car before. I'm shipping off for Army Basic Training and need to store it for roughly 9 weeks while I'm gone. This is my plan so far:
1. Store the car in a rental storage facility
2. Fill the tank and add a fuel stabilizer
3. Jacks are a BAD idea, the car is basically just gonna sit on the concrete, preferably a mat if I can find one
4. Inflate all tires an additional 10psi to prevent flat spots
5. Crack all the windows slighty. I've heard put charcoal on a pan inside to absorb odors (?)
6. Wash/wax/clean/polish the car before storage
7. Give a friend the keys and have em start er up about once a week

The jury's still out on what to do about the battery. Should I remove it or just hook up a trickle-charger? I was gonna drain the oil to prevent crankcase condensation but it seems changing it just before storage and running the car occasionally is the better option. Like I said, any advice would be sincerely appreciated

Happy Saab-ing,
Erik
 
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#3 ·
No it wouldn't actually be driven around once a week, just back out of the storage garage and run til it reaches operating temperature. Personally if theres a way to store it so it can just sit I'd prefer that, but I've been to told if you're gonna do that, drain the oil so you dont blow/crack the crankcase 9 weeks later
 
#5 ·
The people on this site have been a great help to me in the past, and now I have one more question for ya: How should I properly prepare my 1999 9-3 for long-term storage?

I've done google searches and there are discrepancies on various points, especially on whether to disconnect/remove the battery. Plus alot of the recommendations are for classic vintage cars which don't apply to modern cars, then the modern car guys get on and tell you to do some of the things the vintage guys said don't and overall it's just alot of information to sort through, let alone decide which is best for my Saab.

So if anyone has some good advice, please help me out. I've never stored a car before. I'm shipping off for Army Basic Training and need to store it for roughly 9 weeks while I'm gone. This is my plan so far:
1. Store the car in a rental storage facility
2. Fill the tank and add a fuel stabilizer
3. Jacks are a BAD idea, the car is basically just gonna sit on the concrete, preferably a mat if I can find one
4. Inflate all tires an additional 10psi to prevent flat spots
5. Crack all the windows slighty. I've heard put charcoal on a pan inside to absorb odors (?)
6. Wash/wax/clean/polish the car before storage
7. Give a friend the keys and have em start er up about once a week

The jury's still out on what to do about the battery. I was gonna drain the oil to prevent crankcase condensation but it seems changing it just before storage and running the car occasionally is the better option. Like I said, any advice would be sincerely appreciated

Happy Saab-ing,
Erik
1) Sounds good
2) Great idea, no void for humid air means no humid air.
3) Don't understand this, If you are storing a car long term it should be on jacks or jack stands, The shocks and tires will fair far better if not under load
4) Not necessary if it is on jacks
5) Fine idea
6) Great idea
7) Terrible idea...don't do it! It is not necessary to start a car every week to make sure it will still start...it will start don't be concerned. Older cars would get oxidized points and varnished fuel in the carburetor(s) (not even a big deal) This is mostly a bad idea because when starting a car there is an introduction of moisture to the crank case and unless the car reaches operating temperature for a sustained period this water will accumulate. The process is additive for all times the car is started where it does not reach operating temperature; this is directly detrimental. If anything every 6 months the car could be started, preferably driven and brought up to operating temperature, this will keep gasoline from varnishing in injectors and knock off accumulating surface rust on the rotors.

The battery it depends, it's best if it is attached to a battery tender or goes in something else. If it sits for a long period of time it will discharge, the acid will go to its auto-ionization equilibrium (water) and it will likely be history, or if in freezing temperatures you may end up with a mess as well.

DO NOT drain the crankcase. Where there is oil it will not rust. If anything overfill the engine, just remember to drain it back to the appropriate level *before* the car is started next.

How long are you storing the car anyways?
 
#7 · (Edited)
3) Don't understand this, If you are storing a car long term it should be on jacks or jack stands, The shocks and tires will fair far better if not under load

How long are you storing the car anyways?
Well first off I don't have four jacks, but more importantly putting it up on jacks can supposedly warp the frame. Whether thats true or not, beats me. I can see why people would say that and I can see why that could very well be impossible. Regardless the bottom line is its not like its being stored for a year or anything, just 9 weeks. I don't feel thats long enough to cause some alleged frame damage or flat spots. But hey if somehow 9 weeks is long enough to cause one of those, I'd rather have flat spots than a bent frame, know what I mean? Just playing safe on that one, that's all.

But I certainly appreciate you going point by point through my ideas and helping me out.. I didn't even think about the rust-protective qualities of oil, you're right on that one good sir. See I was definitely focused on the fact that letting oil sit causes it to deteriorate, building up condensation and therefore pressure within the crankcase so when you finally go to start up it'll crack. The guy who advised me to drain the oil said this had happened to him. However turns out he was French hahaha maybe I shouldn't have taken his word for it.

Honestly I think if I just change the oil (I use synthetic, breaks down less than conventional) and let her sit, I should be alright. I mean chances are the guy who was adamant about draining the oil probably was using conventional oil and somehow the pressure release valve on his crankcase malfunctioned...
 
#6 ·
The reason for so much disagreement is the time of storage and the value of the car.
Nine weeks is nothing...a man with a Dusenberg may wish to store this beast for 9 years...
You could just give her a good cleaning, wash and wax and maybe use a trickle charger...that all... just store her under a carport...maybe cover the mirrors.
Fogging the engine will not hurt nor help; the battery could come in or stay... I'd keep the windows up; the charcoal, a nice idea, probably not necessary.
Older tires will lose air, depending on how much they lose; maybe an air pump or a source of air under pressure would be nice, after the 9 weeks.
 
#9 ·
You could just give her a good cleaning, wash and wax and maybe use a trickle charger...that all... just store her under a carport...
Have you ever done that? Just wax it and let it sit?

I know two months isn't that long but surely most post-storage problems are caused by lack of pre-storage prep.

Leaving it out in the elements under a carport is bad idea in my case because I'll be storing it in the winter. I'll opt for the storage facility.

Ha and yeah I thought the charcoal seemed a lil uhh over-the-top; I put it in the list to get some feedback on it. I'm glad I'm not the only who thinks it to be a bit much. And if the battery dies, so be it. Those are replaceable. But I do agree hooking up a trickle charger to the battery, whether its in or out, is the best way to go
 
#8 ·
My biggest concern would be the changing of air temps. Let's say you store the car and the temp goes down to 10 degrees. Then, it warms up to 30 degrees and the car starts to sweat due to the change in temperature. What is doing to reduce the chances of rust due to the change in temperature? I've seen cars stored in vacuum bags, with shop-vacs pulling out the mositure. Is this solution the best one?... Ron
 
#10 ·
I've seen cars stored in vacuum bags, with shop-vacs pulling out the mositure. Is this solution the best one?... Ron
Vacuum bag? Sounds pricey. How does a heated storage facility sound? Thats about the best I can do because yes, temperature changes are something to be aware of

By the way nice Saab! Just wanted to say, judging by the pic, it looks gorgeous. I wish mine was an SE sometimes, better trim. (different subject i know)
 
#13 ·
The people on this site have been a great help to me in the past, and now I have one more question for ya: How should I properly prepare my 1999 9-3 for long-term storage?

I've done google searches and there are discrepancies on various points, especially on whether to disconnect/remove the battery. Plus alot of the recommendations are for classic vintage cars which don't apply to modern cars, then the modern car guys get on and tell you to do some of the things the vintage guys said don't and overall it's just alot of information to sort through, let alone decide which is best for my Saab.

So if anyone has some good advice, please help me out. I've never stored a car before. I'm shipping off for Army Basic Training and need to store it for roughly 9 weeks while I'm gone. This is my plan so far:
1. Store the car in a rental storage facility
2. Fill the tank and add a fuel stabilizer
3. Jacks are a BAD idea, the car is basically just gonna sit on the concrete, preferably a mat if I can find one
4. Inflate all tires an additional 10psi to prevent flat spots
5. Crack all the windows slighty. I've heard put charcoal on a pan inside to absorb odors (?)
6. Wash/wax/clean/polish the car before storage
7. Give a friend the keys and have em start er up about once a week

The jury's still out on what to do about the battery. Should I remove it or just hook up a trickle-charger? I was gonna drain the oil to prevent crankcase condensation but it seems changing it just before storage and running the car occasionally is the better option. Like I said, any advice would be sincerely appreciated

Happy Saab-ing,
Erik
Just leave it at my place with the keys.
 
#17 ·
For 9 weeks, all I'd do is put it up on jacks, especially in a colder environment, and that's just for the tires. "Warping" isnt an issue...like someone else said do you think your car warps while sitting on its suspension? Everything else is fine. Top off the fluids to minimize condensation and you'll be all set. Remember there are thousands of U.S. Troops who don't drive their vehicles for up to 15 months at a time and come back to a perfectly functional car/truck in top shape. Disconnect the battery and when you get back at the very most change your oil. You'll be just fine!

For an added piece of mind...think of the all the brand new cars that sit on a dealers lot for 3,4,5 month at a time or more without being moved or started. 9 weeks, not an issue my friend
 
#18 ·
Or of course you could drain everything, take apart the whole car, make sure to label everything, file it all away, and put it back together when you get home. And Bob's your uncle. :eek:
 
#19 ·
I agree with all that nine weeks is no big deal. Once you're in the Army, you'll see whole parking lots of vehicles that belong to guys who are in Iraq or A'Stan. The day after they get back, you'll see one or two vehicles still in the lot and they are typically late model vehicles. Hardly scientific evidence but those vehicles are sitting still for 12-16 months.

One trick I learned (the hard way) is to spray the crap out of your upholstery with Lysol. If your car is leather interior, you won't have much to do. But, that little bit of spilled Coke under your floor mat can make for a somewhat odoriferous homecoming.

Finally... best of luck at Basic! Keep your head down and your eyes on the goal. And remember, it's a rifle, not a gun.
 
#21 ·
Finally... best of luck at Basic! Keep your head down and your eyes on the goal. And remember, it's a rifle, not a gun.
Hey thanks jon, I've arleady done two years of PT with ROTC in college, I think I'm set for whats ahead, just a heavier concentration of PT and exercise, add in constant mind games, and whaddya got? Basic training. No big. But I'll make sure to remember that ;-)
 
#20 ·
I believe the only problem with a car sitting would be tires getting flat spots. Modern cars could probably sit out of the elements without any issues for a year (if the climate doesn't change all that much).

I mean I've seen jeeps sitting in barns for 20-30 years, started within 20 mins using a battery and a auxiliary gas tank, granted our cars have way more gizmos and electronics to cause a no start.
 
#22 ·
Okay, aaaaaaand the final verdict is........

Nine weeks is no big deal,

Just wax and clean out the car (it needs it anayway), give er a quick oil change and tire inflation for good measure, and......well, that's it. It's nice to know I dont have to do much, if anything at all to it. Chances are I will do a couple steps just to make sure my baby is OK!!!

Thank you everybody sooo much for your advice, becaues of your help I'm confident my beloved Saab will be a-ok while I'm gone.

Hey rennsport1, if you want the keys just give me a price and hell I may not even haveta worry about storing it hahah.........tho I think I love my Saab too much to sell it
 
#24 ·
Good advice for the 9 years storage; but for 9 weeks?
I think the dampRid is a good idea.
Any vehicle should be stored(even 9 weeks) in a well ventilated area.
A wind turbine roof vent for our garages.
For the Duesenberg, airconditioning, full HVAC....and an Egyptian slave to fan this beast..:lol::cheesy:
 
#25 · (Edited)
I've stored many cars and boats, short-term and long-term.
I consider 9 weeks very short-term. It will seem a LOT longer to you than it will to the car. :lol:
Some things that are necessary for long-term are not needed for short-term.

A mat or plastic over the concrete: long-term need, not short term really (concrete keeps moisture around it, almost as bad as sitting over bare dirt - but not for 9 weeks, so not for you)

Battery: if you have access to house current, a battery tender is nice. Otherwise, disconnect it. I've stored my Saab for 3 months under cover and it fired right up, but all cars vary. Easiest on the battery to make sure it stays up, whether in or out of the car. If it goes dead and stays that way for even a short time, figure on a new battery.

Stor-N-Start in the gas: thumbs up for any car that gets stored or intermittent use. Today's gas starts deteriorating within a month.
FILL THE TANK and use some of this.

Jacks: bah - very long-term only, and you would be taking the wheels off and bagging them to preserve the tires.

Fogging: Pain in the neck for a car, I used to do it 30 years ago on a Chevelle SS I used to store for 5 months at a time - but it would only be beneficial for long-term, and these days actually for cars I use a synthetic upper-cylinder lube in the gas called Uplon. 1/2 oz. per gallon of gas and serves the same purpose.

DriZair or DampRid: thumbs up, especially for barn or outdoor storage.

DON'T have somebody start it periodically. That just increases the number of cold starts with low oil pressure, and introduces more condesation into everything. Once you get back and put it back on the road, DO air up the
tires and take on a nice long drive cycle, over an hour at all speeds.

Good luck!!!
 
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