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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I own two 9-5 wagons that have inoperable recirculation door problems. In each case I have removed the recirculation motor box with white lever arm and wired the white sliding clam shell door permanently closed, at least for the summer. One of the motors and resistor are burned out. The other has a broken (white) actuating arm. I was about to re install one this morning after making one good one out of the two I have but noticed that the electrical wire that hooks up to the motor has 12 volts on it. 12 volts all the time, key in key out, car started, push the recirculation switch on the dash, on/ no change in voltage. The recircuclation icon light shows on the display and goes on and off when you push the button but again no change in voltage, it is always supplying 12 volts. Is it suppose to supply 12 volts for so many seconds then reverse polarity and supply it for so many seconds? There is no visible switching mechanism otherwise that I can see. My WIS on DVD has nothing about the AC or blend doors or this issue, is that a separate WIS? Thanks for any input.
P
 

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I think you are on the right track but suspect the motor's runtime is not time related but stops when it labors, then switch direction when you hit the recirc button. (My guess:))

The resistor must be a design flaw as mine also went bad. I used it on auto recirc a lot and it must have killed the resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Partial understanding!

First-Saab
Thanks for the reply. I may be on to something, This morning I hooked up the meter to the wire connector that goes to the recirculate motor without putting the key into the ignition. I got zero voltage. I put the key in the ignition and turn to on but do not start the car, I get 9.2volts. Turn the ACC on but still do not start car I get 10.8 volts for 14 seconds then voltage goes to 9.2 volts. Hit the recirculate button and the voltage again jumps up to 10.8 volts. So it appears that the recirculate motor only operates at this higher 10.8 volts (not the 9.2volts) and it is supplied this voltage for 14 seconds which is more that enough time for the white plastic arm to travel from one stop to the other. Each time I hit the recirculate button the polarity switched which reversed the motors direction from the previous. I don't understand how the higher voltage operates the motor but the lower voltage doesn't. Assume it has something to do with the resistor and what looks like a capacitor on the small circuit board that the motor is on. I will post more once I get time to investigate.
I wish I new where you could buy just a replacement motor not a specific Saab part. Motors from DigiKey or similar are $5.00. If I were able to match shaft size (swap the worn drive) physical size, voltage etc. I could replace my
mine.
 
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