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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you read this post: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113227&highlight=heavy+braking you'll know what the deal is. I was wondering what percautions I need to take before I start unbolting stuff. I know those front springs can pack quite a wallop. Looks like I need to remove the brace that runs under the car (skid plate attaches to it). Also, it looks like the whole control arm(?) needs to come out, or at least loose.

here's another pic:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
...or just gut it, trash the body, and part out what's left? I'm going to need to sell this car any way. (Need to buy a new car, most likely an older saab turbo) Should I try to fix it and sell it, fix it and keep it, just sell it as a car and sell the good parts seperate, part it out, or what else?
Thanks,
-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
0, 0, and pretty good. ok well not zero for fabricating, but I havent fabricated any serious stuff yet that needed to be welded. Mainly because I have never welded before. I do however have a source for free percision welding : ) I just need to know what I have to weld, and where. And I suppose while I'm down there, what else should I weld up, on either side for a good ole strengthening?
 

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Well first you need to find out how much the tinworms have eaten. Block the upper control arm, remove the shock and balljoint frome the lower arm and remove the six nuts that hold the lower control arm on. then you can remove whats rotten and fit repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks, I have to work on another super cool project for the moment, but when I get back, I'll check out what you said. What do you mean block?
-alex
 

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By block I mean, install a spacer (about 1/2" thick) between the upper control arm and the bottom of the hole through wich it passes. This "unloads" the suspension so the lower arm is no longer affected by the coil spring.
 

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You can go to a wrecker and see how much they want for you to cut out that section from a good car. This is what my mechanic did for my convertible. After all the welding was done the car was still a perfect score for allignment:D


Fabricating could be more work depending on what your welder can do.
 

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nnamssorxela said:
0, 0, and pretty good. ok well not zero for fabricating, but I havent fabricated any serious stuff yet that needed to be welded. Mainly because I have never welded before. I do however have a source for free percision welding : ) I just need to know what I have to weld, and where. And I suppose while I'm down there, what else should I weld up, on either side for a good ole strengthening?
I'd have a bloody good look at the other side, make sure it's not about to do the same...

Is there any sign of rot there? Or previous repairs?

It appears from the MOT history that mine had failed on driveshaft tunnel rot a couple of years ago - both sides were repaired, but the RH wasn't done well enough to pass this year's test... When the old bodged "repairs" were removed (easily) the rot was still there - the "repairs" hadn't added any strength. There was about a day's welding went into rebuilding one side - and that was WITH having something to "aim at", with the arm bolts not having moved any.

As it is, you're going to have to do a lot of measuring on a good car to figure out where they've got to go back to.

I reckon it'd be easiest to pull that complete front leg off a known-good car, making plenty of measurements relative to the other side (including diagonals) and the upper leg mount.

Or it may be best just to admit your car's dead, unfortunately...
 

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ship me your louver, whaletail, and aero bodykit... :lol:
 

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TooMany2cvs said:
Or it may be best just to admit your car's dead, unfortunately...
Don't scare the guy off, it's realy not to horrible to fix. I fixed mine myself, Idiotsaabvant Fixed his himself (and nicely too) and yours was repaired. if it can be done once it can be done again. Anywhere is walking distance, if you've got the time.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
it just so happens I have a saab just waiting to be cut apart sitting in my garage. how exactly do i just cut it out? I'm gonna go take off the other wheel, give it a look and report back with pictures.

Say I do scrap it, how much do you reckon it will fetch? I mean it's a good condition running vehicle etc...

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
uh oh, it doesnt look nearly as bad, but it looks like it will be getting there. I dont want to let my saab go, but it doesnt look like I can fix this easily. I'm running out of money, and need a new car. here's what I saw on the left side:

from the wheel well:


From underneath:


again:
 

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grif900 said:
Don't scare the guy off, it's realy not to horrible to fix. I fixed mine myself, Idiotsaabvant Fixed his himself (and nicely too) and yours was repaired.
Indeed - but we had the big advantage that we didn't need to try to figure where the arm mounts _should_ be.
 

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TooMany2cvs said:
Indeed - but we had the big advantage that we didn't need to try to figure where the arm mounts _should_ be.
Everything looks like it is still atleast partially attached so it can be knocked back into approximate place

its not the end of the world if he gets the mounts very slightly out - yes it will wear tyre slightly and you might be able to feel it pull - but it will still drive.

If this is indeed only his $300 beater and he is a poor student then i'm sure that he could cope with having car that ate one front tyre slightly quicker than the other or something. I've put up with lot of things on my cheap old cars.
Once it is welded its not going to collapse so should be safe enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sadly, it's got to go :(

ok, the saab has to go. I have plenty of saab's to keep me busy, but this one has to go. I'm going to put on all the original stuff and keep my goodies...for now. I don't have time to part the car out unless I can find tons of ppl that need stuff quick :eek:. What do you think I should ask for this car? It is a 1991 900S with about 179,000 miles. leather, sunroof etc. I also have a 1993 900S 4 door parts car with a good engine and other parts. It's sat for a year or so and I've taken off enough parts for it to not run (radiator etc.), but it's pretty much all there. Any suggestions both both of or one of these cars?
Thanks again you guys,
-Alex
 

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Alex -

The repair isn't that bad - my '85 had a bad case of rot on the right side - I didn't feel like mucking with it so I had my local Saab indie guy do it for me - $200 bucks - if you have access to a guy with good welding skills for zero dollars - at least do the fix before you sell her - then you're selling a good, solid car that won't get someone hurt rather than trying to sell a "non-runner" or parts (I've never done well doing either) -

Just my two cents - I mean it's your car and your money -

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I suppose your right that I should fix it. (But then I know I won't want to sell it;)). I was just looking for an easy out because I didn't want to spend any more on this car just to get rid of it (money is getting harder and harder to come by for me). I'll take some pictures of the work needed to be done and see if the guy will do it. (steve, did that price include the welder figuring out what needed to be strengthened, where, and with what?)
-Alex
 
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