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Oh well, brought the car to Firestone for inspection, just got call from them, emission pasted, failed on safety, passenger rear side brake caliper seized, Firestone quoted me $887 for replacing caliper, rotors and pads, and brake fluid flush, so I will get the car back and do the job myself. Sourced reman caliper from Advance Auto, will be here by tomorrow, ordered rotors and pad from eBay, will be here after Thanksgiving. Also need a new pairs of windshield wiper blades.
 

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Me? well I drained 2.4litres of excess oil out of 'my' new 2000 93. - They were wondering why it was pis*ing oil out!
Anyway I'm praying it's fixed and I can buy this sweet little car.
It's one of those you dream about... one owner (a friend), low K's, full service books, price = pocket money.
Can't believe my luck really, I've always fancied Saabs, now snagged one. I'm just praying that the overfill of oil hasn't done any other damage (like rear main oil seal).
 

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It was actually a week ago, but I got a lot of maintenance done on my 9-3:
Plugged a flat tire, replaced the cabin air filter, refinished my headlights, broke two rusted out screws holding on my bumper (damn you New Jersey weather).

The biggest one was that I was popping the dreaded p0601 and p0602 codes. I did the ECU recovery/clone with Brew City Boost, and added the stage 2 Tune because why not. Also changed to the colder plugs the tune called for.

So far so good, my car has been running great. On occasion I would get a bit of rough idle, but not too bad.

As for the stage 2, man I really need new front tires.

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Oh well, brought the car to Firestone for inspection, just got call from them, emission pasted, failed on safety, passeng


Replaced a 1 year old Koni Active damper that started leaking. Yay lifetime warranty!


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er rear side brake caliper seized, Firestone quoted me $887 for replacing caliper, rotors and pads, and brake fluid flush, so I will get the car back and do the job myself. Sourced reman caliper from Advance Auto, will be here by tomorrow, ordered rotors and pad from eBay, will be here after Thanksgiving. Also need a new pairs of windshield wiper blades.
Oh well, brought the car to Firestone for inspection, just got call from them, emission pasted, failed on safety, passenger rear side brake caliper seized, Firestone quoted me $887 for replacing caliper, rotors and pads, and brake fluid flush, so I will get the car back and do the job myself. Sourced reman caliper from Advance Auto, will be here by tomorrow, ordered rotors and pad from eBay, will be here after Thanksgiving. Also need a new pairs of windshield wiper blades.
Interesting. Konis have a very good name in the Motorcycling World, but I suppose any brand can have the odd defective unit.
I had new Sachs shockers put into my 93 yesterday. A great improvement, the kerbside one was shot.
Not cheap, $440 parts, though $130 labour to fit them was pretty good value. Aussie dollars remember... we only get about 68c US for one aussie dollar.
 

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Interesting. Konis have a very good name in the Motorcycling World, but I suppose any brand can have the odd defective unit.
I had new Sachs shockers put into my 93 yesterday. A great improvement, the kerbside one was shot.
Not cheap, $440 parts, though $130 labour to fit them was pretty good value. Aussie dollars remember... we only get about 68c US for one aussie dollar.
Yeah but you get them installed by koalas, in the US we don’t have that option!


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The koalas up near my joint move that slowly, they'd charge a fortune for that job! And even then they'd get it all wrong because they're high on eucaliptus oil.
And they leave their rotten fur over everything. They might have cute little faces... but that's where the relationship ends!
Today I've been fixing a broken mount on the plastic top cover that goes over the injection / manifold, (yes, I probably pulled it up instead of back, my stuff-up).
Fixed a couple of what look like vacuum hoses broken. Yesterday I flattened the battery because I left the ignition on for maybe an hour (nothing running though).
Overnight charge has brought the battery up, several starts/stops and a 50k run sees it all good, and getting a healthy 14v charge. But I'll have to watch out for that in the future.
 

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Today (started yesterday) I changed seat heater pad to my 12 Griffin Aero. I also swapped steering wheel (back) to original Hirsch (with steering wheel heater which I added). I also modified the CIM to get electricity for steering wheel heater.
Seat heater changing was not difficult, but WIS shows older model disassemble only, not 12 model seat.

NO PICS, because my wife refused to take pics and I can not take pics when I work.
 

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My 2011's very subtle misfire turned into a harsh and sudden jolt when airmass reached/exceeded 1000mg/c (according to the eSID2): whenever the engine is under medium to heavy load in boost. It felt more like hitting fuel cut than a failing ignition coil, but otherwise drove fine. So after some reading, I ordered a few parts from eSaabparts. Tech 2 shows no related DTCs, although misfire counts originally pointed toward cylinders 2 & 3. I rechecked misfire counts when the parts came in on Christmas Eve and cylinders 1 & 4 have since caught up and are level across the board.

Saabmas Eve consisted of swapping in new boost pressure control valve, bypass air charge valve, and two new coils. The new components didn't completely resolve the issue, but the car feels & drives better. The misfire is more of a hesitation/stutter now instead of a dramatic event.

I've got the other two coils on order and will be changing out spark plugs for good measure as well. Hoping this will resolve the issue.

Today (started yesterday) I changed seat heater pad to my 12 Griffin Aero. I also swapped steering wheel (back) to original Hirsch (with steering wheel heater which I added). I also modified the CIM to get electricity for steering wheel heater.
Seat heater changing was not difficult, but WIS shows older model disassemble only, not 12 model seat.

NO PICS, because my wife refused to take pics and I can not take pics when I work.
Can you provide some more info on the steering wheel heater?
 

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Reset the service counter, cloned ECU in prep for tune, and replaced front pads & rotors.
As for the stage 2, man I really need new front tires.
I finally got the ESP to engage with some hard mountain driving last week, and I'm only at stage 0. It wasn't the rears slipping. After New Year it'll be new front tires for me, too, along with stage 1. At least I know ESP works. (y)
 

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Just a short version (I'm not Mark Twain):

Tore down leather (I used upholstery that makes Porsches, Lambos, Ferraris, etc.).
Bought suitable heating wire (0.25mm diameter) wrapped in steering wheel. Upholstery manufactures new premium leather steering wheel.
I placed wires to center of steering wheel and to bottom.
Bottom have special made of stainless steel for power. The ground itself is steering wheel frame.
Tore down CIM and make space for carbon brush, wired it and reassemble CIM.
I used - button on SID panel to activate steering wheel heater via relay. I also modified SID panel, thus I have - button light red when steering wheel heater is on.
 

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Just a short version (I'm not Mark Twain):

Tore down leather (I used upholstery that makes Porsches, Lambos, Ferraris, etc.).
Bought suitable heating wire (0.25mm diameter) wrapped in steering wheel. Upholstery manufactures new premium leather steering wheel.
I placed wires to center of steering wheel and to bottom.
Bottom have special made of stainless steel for power. The ground itself is steering wheel frame.
Tore down CIM and make space for carbon brush, wired it and reassemble CIM.
I used - button on SID panel to activate steering wheel heater via relay. I also modified SID panel, thus I have - button light red when steering wheel heater is on.
That's awesome! -and sure useful in Finland winters...
 

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Got delayed and the weather here has been miserable. The "Intermotor" brand coils I ordered from Advance Auto ended up being Chinese knockoffs as well. Going to just order straight from the source instead.

What you want to know?
I have made heater to 5 Saabs.
I was going to ask about a write-up, but it looks like you've already addressed that. (y)
 

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I ma not mind reader and somebody (almost everyone) here knows much better than me about anything, so I just answer questions.
 

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Fixed the clicker under the spare fob 'unlock' button. Took it apart because I wanted to see if it was identical to a replacement I found on eBay- it was!
So now all the electrical switches work! Then I ordered the new key fob shell from eBay so that I will have a nice-looking fob without all the scratches and pits of my 15-year-old ones.
 

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Replace the Crank Position Sensor. Trying to resolve my warm-start-engine-dying behavior. WIS said to replace the sensor from below after removing the starter, but as I discovered it is possible to do it from above. Access isn't perfect, and I had to get creative in applying suitable force/leverage to pop the new one in, but I got it done without lifting the car. Time will tell if it worked...
 

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My Aero threw code P0089 on saturday. Did some research through forum posts that night and yesterday I tried to clean the fuel rail & injectors by pouring a couple capfuls of Seafoam in the FPS opening. Ran like **** for a minute or two, but went back to normal after clearing my CELs, and CEL did not come back during my 45 min drive to work. I have a new FPS on order too, before I try the final (and expensive) solution of a new fuel pump.
 
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