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Good Lord - only 6k miles? WTH?
Yeah... 6K. Apparently the difference between "spirited" and "abusive" is pretty thin... That, and the overall reliability of junkyard autos. The spare has a reported 20k miles less than the original replacement, so it ought to give me a few more miles before I give up on two pedals and start going nuts on this thing.
 

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So today I finally get around to replacing that missing sub frame bolt that got lost. Turns out the mount that holds it in place broke allowing the bolt to spin so I'm guessing it never got tight when I initially put the stock bolt in. So since its long gone I got a replacment and had to go to the parts store to find a matching bolt since the stock one was also stripped. I managed to get the old bolt and housing out of the frame and mounted up the new one with double washers and locknuts and loctite.

I also realized I had a coolant leak at the nipple for the turbo coolant return to the throttle body. Two red arrows in the picture. When I initially installed it I cranked it down as hard as I could, but I guess going through several heat cycles allowed me to tighten it fully so now no more leaks. After cleaning up all the dried up coolant sitting on the transmission, I can say I'm glad I caught this cause it could have been catastrophic if it leaked down into my clutch...deff dont wanna do that again any time soon

 

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replaced blow rear subwoofer in the 9-5, and washed and waxed her.

By the way, replacing speakers in this car is way more involved than it should be.... Had to take half the cargo area apart to get to it!
 

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What an improvement! Looks great man! Those wheels look more at home on the 9-5 than on the G6 ;-)

Cheers!
Thanks, I agree they fit the 9-5 like a glove.
 

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Thinking of getting the 3D decals, I like how those came out.
 

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The alarm and key fob buttons have never worked on the wife's 2003 9-5 since we bought it about 14 months ago. Read thru some threads on here that the most likely cause for this would be the ignition switch being gunked up and the cylinder not popping up when you pull the key out of the ignition. Checked her switch out and BINGO, that's the problem!

Pulled the ignition cylinder out and cleaned it all up. However, once cleaned I found that the main issue was that a pin that needed to move in by the force of a spring on the bottom of the cylinder so the cylinder would pop up when the key was removed wouldn't do what it was supposed to do because a groove had worn into the outer cylinder where the pin rests before sinking into the key cylinder wall. Some careful work with a Dremel tool along with careful and judicious bending of the wall of the outer cylinder to help the pin move in as it rotates back to the "Lock" position now allows the pin to do what it's supposed to with only the force of the spring. Net result: the cylinder pops up when the key is removed, the TWICE now shuts off the power to everything which allows operation of the alarm and buttons on the key fob!! It's AWESOME!!

I won't mention how badly I almost panicked when I tried to start the car and got "KEY NOT RECOGNIZED" on the SID. :eek: I was trying to start the car without putting everything back together all the way to test everything out and I didn't realize that without the immobilizer ring back in place around the cylinder I would get that message and the car wouldn't start. A quick trip to this forum and reading what others have done with that message and I realized what was wrong, went back out and put the ring back where it belongs and VOILA, it started right up!! ;ol;

I just gotta say that THIS FORUM ROCKS!!! I've fixed so many things on my cars by learning from this forum. Wouldn't know what to do without it!!!

;ol; :cheesy:
 

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Today I dropped the oil pan in the hunt for a loud knock/tap. Rods all check out good but I don't have inverted torques to pull the main. I'll get a set when Snapon or Mac come around this week. The oil was clean with no chunks so Ill be popping the valve cover off asap.

I also pulled the exhaust and deleted the middle muffler. The car sound just how I want it now. Minus the tap.
 

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Today i replaced all the intake vacuum lines and added a Garrett boost gauge just waiting to get my custom 3 pod pillar back from the upholstery shop.
 

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Replaced the front rotors and pads on my 2000 Aero wagon with cross-drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads. Will be doing the rears tomorrow.
 

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Replaced the front rotors and pads on my 2000 Aero wagon with cross-drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads. Will be doing the rears tomorrow.
Love to hear how those work out for you I've been thinking of doing the same on my 2000 LPT Wagon.
 

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Love to hear how those work out for you I've been thinking of doing the same on my 2000 LPT Wagon.
ArmySaab, I was able to replace the rear rotors and pads today with the new cross-drilled, slotted rotors with ceramic pads. Now that all four corners have the upgraded rotors and pads, seems so far to be working well. I thought with the slots, there would be additional noise but I don't hear any difference. Braking seems very smooth so far. No brake fade at all even when I tried a long downhill in my area. Seems to have better bite at freeway speeds. I will update you on the braking power and dust accumulation over time. Did the whole job for just under $200! EBay is my friend.
 

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Changed the headlights today, and I have to say I'm a little disappointed in SAAB. For the price of the car, new, they could have put a plug instead of two spade terminals, what a shame. ;oops:
 

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replaced blow rear subwoofer in the 9-5, and washed and waxed her.

By the way, replacing speakers in this car is way more involved than it should be.... Had to take half the cargo area apart to get to it!
I need to replace the speaker also, where did you get it? Any tips or tricks that I should know about?
 

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Replaced the front sway bar bushings. The "Thunk" I was hearing everytime I hit a bump is now gone:D.

The job wasn't as bad as I thought. The key is to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side so you can get to the front bolt. Turn the left hand side all the way to the left and all the way to the right for the right hand side. A 10 mm ratchet on the bolt slides right on. Remove that bolt. Use a good universal socket on the rear one, loosen it a few turns, pull the swaybar forward and out she pops. If the sway bar is still tight, either remove one of the link bolts or just jack up the lower control arm to relieve some of the stress on the sway bar and it pops right off.

I did both in about 2 hrs. Remember which way the bushing mount faces as it does make a difference.
 

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I just gotta say that THIS FORUM ROCKS!!! I've fixed so many things on my cars by learning from this forum. Wouldn't know what to do without it!!!
;ol; :cheesy:
Glad this worked out and feel the exact same way. I too have completed repairs and modifications I'd never thought possible because of this forum. I'd only owned Honda's before and never landed in a community quite like the this.
 

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Glad this worked out and feel the exact same way. I too have completed repairs and modifications I'd never thought possible because of this forum. I'd only owned Honda's before and never landed in a community quite like the this.
Same thoughts here.
I have a Sonata, Hyundai forum is great but nothing like this one. People here are specials, in a good way.
 
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