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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there,
A week or two ago I managed to get my waterpump out to fix a finally too big leak. I've got the pump in the basement now trying to get the little adapter bit off the back half of the pump. This short piece of aluminum casting connects the pump outlet to the block with O-rings on each end for sealing. I've used WD40, heat, soaked it in vinegar overnight, beat on it with a hammer, and the stupid thing won't separate. I've grunted pretty hard with channel-locks trying to twist it off. Since new pumps come only with the front half as I understand it (pulley, pump), I need get this part separated.

Anybody have any thoughts on how to get this thing separated?? One thought at this point is to just break it up (the casting aluminum alloy is fairly brittle). Hopefully without damaging the pump back housing.

The car has 175K on it and runs fine otherwise.

Thanks,
Jon
 

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One approach, if you get desperate enough, is to install overlength bolts and try pressing or even hammering on them. That presumes that you have a way to clamp the assembly on the bolt head side. Also if possible, hammer/press on more than one of them at a time, to keep the aluminum from cracking off at the bolt threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Doug,
Thanks for the link. I didn't see anything much about disassembling the pump so I think he didn't have much difficulty as you said.

EdT,
I went back and looked at my original post and realized I wasn't very clear in my description. I'm actually just trying to separate the short little piece between the back of the pump and the block. The piece is only held in by the friction of an O-ring but it won't budge! After 20 years I guess some corrosion is expected, and the part actually doesn't look that bad outside or in really, but it is might stuck. Been vising the pump and twisting the short connector piece so far; gonna try clamping the connector bit and twisting the pump when I get home.

Thanks,
Jon
 

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Okay, I don't think my NG900 had that adaptor. I did have a heck of a time separating the pump halves, hence my assumption.

WD40 isn't a penetrating fluid. Try Kroil or PB Blaster.

Just as a note, you want to check what "water pump" you are getting. Looking at eEuro, what's sold is just the front half, which gets removed from the back half. In which case, the little adaptor you are worrying about stays with the back half.
 

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It might be a temptation to keep the two parts as they are, but there is the chance that after torturing the smaller part the O ring might not seal anymore..
Maybe find a used parts and install that one? There is the advice to change the O rings when the pump is changed.
 

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Make sure you get the hole in the block very clean, I had to get in there with a wire brush on a right angle drill to get it to stop leaking at that connection.
.
 

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Hi Joryde,

I feel your pain. I've done this job about six times now - and the one before last gave me a small taste of what you are describing. The vinegar was a good idea - but the gunk built up there is probably one of those accidental "aggregates" of corrosion products, grease, dried antifreeze, etc. This tends to defeat simple solvents.

I would soak it in a pan of boiling water, have a forceps handy to take it out, gloves to hold the pump body, and Channel Lock pliers to pull on the pipe. Careful with the boiling water that might bump or spurt out of pump openings. If that fails on first try, use a stiff piece of plastic (cut up an old credit card ?) to scrape out the crud that is sealing the outer edge of the O-ring into the back half of the pump body. Scrape clean, and try boiling again. Another approach would be an ultrasonic bath with the pipe-body joint immersed in water-detergent solution in the bath.

eEuroParts has the short pipe available (SAAB Engine Water Pump Pipe 55558804), so if you need to break it, you can get another for $16.74.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies from all and here some replies and update:
  • on Wed past I soaked around the connector pipe fitting with PBBlaster. I liked the boiling water idea and was planning to use that,
  • I was afraid the seal was probably toast so didn't want to leave connector with back half (I used a heat gun on early attempt),
  • I have the short connector in my cart at a couple places (still waiting to see if I can get everything I want from one source).
On Thu. evening I put the pump back in the vise and grunted mightily on the short connector, twisting motion, and FINALLY it started to move. After working it back and forth I did get it out of there and the block side O-ring certainly doesn't have a round cross-section anymore!
So, now I have the pump apart and notice it has a cast steel impeller. I had thought OE's were plastic and the aftermarket ones (Meyle, Graf, etc.) were cast. It has Saab and OE p/n on it andI looked through my records, and what I had from PO, but no mention of waterpump change (I've had car since 137K) so I'm pretty sure it's original. Anyway, I have my doubts that pump is actually bad. It has slightly sticky rotation resistance which seems appropriate to me, and no perceptible wobble. Evidence of normal weeping. Now I think the leak was the stiff joint at block due to small connector corrosion and stuck to back half of pump, causing pipe-to-block fitting to develop leak. Anyway, since it's out, and replacements are relatively cheap, I guess it makes no sense to put it back in.

Onward.
 

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Glad to hear you got it apart - and all but one of the water pumps I have replaced have been the block-to-pipe O-ring leaking, not the pumps themselves. It's just that for all the work involved, a new pump is not that expensive.

The lone pump out of six that failed did so catastrophically - the pump pulley fractured in the area just outside the weld to the shaft.
 

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As long as the replacement pump is good quality, then replace it. I do recall that some people had issues with replacement pumps in the past. Sadly, the supply of first-quality OEM and equivalent parts is drying up. I would hesitate to install a ProParts pump instead of reinstalling a good-condition original pump.
 

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I am currently running a 2-car 'experiment' with a Meyle water pump in each car. When I bought, I ordered a second one since the price was attractive, and it gave me free shipping. Upon receiving them, I discovered that they are made in China - but the casting, machining, and weld quality were visually excellent. I installed the first one about two-and-a half years and 13K miles ago, and the other one went on the shelf. When the water pump pulley on my other daughter's car self destructed half a year later, I installed the second one, and that's got 15K miles. They're both performing well.

Previously I used Graf, Hepu, Airtex (2), and one genuine SAAB across four 9-5's - which as I count up, means I've done 9-5 water pumps seven times instead of six . . . . why I keep spreadsheets on cars instead of just using my memory =).
 
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