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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, after a lot of research, mainly on this forum, I made up my mind, and decided to change the heater bypass valve myself.

Here's the step-by-step guide, I hope it's of use to others, it is a MAJOR PITA to do, but with determination, it can be done. It took me about 3 hours, but that included 2 trips to the car-parts store for a 10mm socket, and then I forgot some cable-ties.

Things you need:
- 10mm socket (deep)
- Cable tie
- Locking pliers (I used long nose, and regular ones)

I found the part at my local Cadillac dealer, since the same valve is used for a Catera (Opel). GM Part #90566947.

Remove the cap from the connector pictured, gently pull at the bottom, and it will slide off.

The red connector has to be disconnected.

Simply slide the red part of connector to the right, and it will come of EASY. I didn't figure this out right away, so I pulled on it, and twisted it until I accidentally nudged the red part. And it popped off.


Remove the (2) 10mm nuts from each side of the connector assembly and after that you can move the cable's to your left and you reach the valve.



And there it is, the bugger!


Now simply (or not), use your locking pliers and clamp them on those hose clamps. There wil be one hose on the right side (viewing) and that one is the easiest to remove, I would also save that one for last to put back on also.
There are two hoses on the left, and those or not as easy. Try to top one first, then the bottom one. After you removed the right hose, there is a bracket with a vacuum solenoid on it. And the vacuum hose on top of the valve, you should remove it now. And detach the bracket from the back of the valve. The top left hose is tied the a cable branch with a cable-tie.

Here you can see the slot on the back of the valve for the bracket.


When you finally removed the valve, put the new one back it. It's actually a little easier. Connect the vacuum solenoid bracket and vacuum tube before you connect the last hose (right side). Also don't forget to put the cable-tie on the top-left hose and tie it back to the cable-branch.

And your done!



It's wasn't all that much fun, 100 degree heat out there, good thing I had some shade. But it did fix my problem! I used almost a gallon of coolant mix (the orange kind) and ran my car with the heater on untill it heated up. Hot air was pouring out, and by the time it was around 190F (the coolant temp) I turned on the AC (LO) and drove the car for a bit.

The car still smelled of coolant, and when I looked under the car for leaks, the downpipe was smoking from the coolant that was spilled on when I removed the drain. Now everything is fine, no more leaks.

Thanks everyone on the forums for helping out, and pointing me in the right direction.

I hope I didn't leave anything out...

Questions?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Couldn't have done it without your guidance, even WIS wasn't too much help, just gave me a clue where the part was. I wouldn't call it minor repair tho. :roll:

It was very hot outside, and wiped my face a lot. I had a bottle of Fast-Orange in my hands also. :cheesy:
 

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Top tip :D !!
come in handy, since i am planning this also, after i fix the :(:( dreaded 08 and 13 error :evil::evil: that's ruined my weekend !
 

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Thanks for the photos, I'll be doing this next weekend!

I have had the valve in my garage for 6 months or so, but haven't tackled the job because the WIS instructions are so poor.

Now about those code 08 and 13 errors...... I too received them this weekend, right after I replaced the cabin fan on Saturday! Today I was busy installing PCV kit #6 and a new valve cover gasket. New tires are due to arrive tomorrow, and I might tackled the pre-emptive water pump replacement next wekend too.

Anyone ever replace the voltage regulator? Can you do it with the alternator still in the car?

Dang. This car is getting expensive after 7+ years of nothing going wrong at all!
 

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I just knocked this job out, this past Monday. Took me about 45-50 minutes, start to finish, with the helpful DIY(s). Thanks so much!

Next up, for me, is the dreaded PCV fix, and strainer/pan cleaning.. uhg..

~Ricky
 

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If he's anything like me, I probably own about 5 or 6 of each, and can't hardly find one of them, so in a pinch, I usually get pissed off, and go buy another one! lol The beauty of a 6yr old that finds shiny tools fascinating... :roll:

Raven18940 said:
How you own a saab and not have metric wrenchs? :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Woywitka!

I have since done it again on my other 9-5 (Wife's) and it went a lot easier that time. Besides that time I had to right tools! ;oops:
 

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just did this on my 04 aero.

something that REALLY helped:

I got these coolant hose pliers clamps things. maybe 8 dollars at the auto parts store. they are plastic, shaped like pliers, with blunt edges that don't damage the hose. you clamp them on the coolant hose and they lock in place, so when you disconnect the hoses, there is minimal coolant spillage. TOP TIP! :cheesy: :lol:
 
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Great write-up, it almost made it fun...! Thanks for your time and efforts.

It was easier for me to undo the two hoses on the left first because I couldn't get to the clamp on the right hose with my clamp pliers. After the two on the left were undone, you can move the valve and it is easier to get to the other one.
 
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I replaced all the plumbing back there but the valve is still working. Its a hellish job if you're doing everything:( Changing the hoses that go down and to the heater through the firewall is on the cusp of being impossible without removing the engine. Fortunately I have long slender arms and had an assistant. Anyway, i feel your pain. Nice job..

This is also a great way to learn where your boost control solenoids are located.
 

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I just complted this job. A couple of notes - I removed the intercooler to throttle body pipe and a rigid plastic vacuum line from the vac pump to the TB. this opened up more working room. Also, another link in the FAQ's suggests using a shock cord to hold back the wiring and this works very well. I removed the plastic cover from the wire loom to increase the flexibility. The connector block has a metal hook that goes under the airbox seal that needs to be removed to get it off.

The whole job including getting out and putting away the tools and cleaning up the spilled coolant took about 2 hours. Actually changing the valve doesn't take long.

My dealer charged C$100 for the valve (less Saab Club 10% discount) which was reasonable given Eeuroparts wants $75 for it.

I took apart the old valve to see what gave out. The diaphragn was fine, to my surprise. The leak must be from the seal on the valve spindle.
 

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Water Valve Repair

Silly question but how would you know if you need to do this type of repair? basically i am asking how would i be alerted that my Water Valve (Heater Bypass Valve) needs to be repaired. Sorry for my ignorance.
 

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Don1 said:
Silly question but how would you know if you need to do this type of repair? basically i am asking how would i be alerted that my Water Valve (Heater Bypass Valve) needs to be repaired. Sorry for my ignorance.
mine was leaking pretty good, and quite obvious that it was the culprit.
 
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If it is not leaking that bad and you won't see a puddle of coolant on the ground just yet, some coolant may start to drip on the exhaust and you will smell it.
 

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I knew because my coolant was disappearing after driving the car.

I looked under the hood, and saw smoke, there was coolant dripping on the hot downpipe (causing the smoke)

I looked for an area above that and there sat the bypass valve. I squeezed the hose going to it and coolant dripped out the top where it should be sealed. So, I replaced it and it has been fine since.
 

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Thanks for the clarification. So far i dont have to worry about this repair. In fact i just survived running my car without coolant and having the engine totally shut down on me but now all is well :)
 
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