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That's what I did at the weekend. MTF in the box realy is as good as they say. Better cold changes and much smoother warm. Go on, try it!

I shortened the rod on the wastegate by about 8mm. (LPT) I started at about 2/3 mm and kept testing untill I got to about 8mm. It's made a considerable difference! I'm a bit concerned that I did it without any type of guage reading. I have a stock boost guage from a T16, can I hook this up to the tube behind the dash to get an estimation?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Matthew. I'll try and get one, and I can connect it directly to that tube?
Anyway, bit more worried now: went out for a scud at lunch and got a bit of a scare. Changed down from 5th to 3rd, floored it, and when I got to almost 5000 revs, the enginge suddenly died. It happened very very quickly, as if it realy didn't like something and was preventing damage. I changed up and all was fine. I left it 10 minutes and tried once more to check: accelerated hard through 1 and 2 and it did the same in third. Again changed up and drove home without problem. Anyone know what's going on? I think I should lengthen the wastegate rod back to where it was maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks.
I don't know about the overboost cut-out, but that's exactly how it felt. I'll do a search...
 

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Got my Industrial type boost/vac Gauge from McMaster Carr (google) for $10 Yes! V nice too & V accurate.. Bargain :) Very usefull tool
It also proved that the Saab dash Gauge is actually quite accurate.. given that it has No numbers :)
It's possible that you got into the Fuel Cutoff Switch.. but it's set at a nominal 1 bar (approx) about half thru the Red.
Effect is V close to having the Windshield hitting your face.. a completely unmistakable event.
 

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Basre said:
It's possible that you got into the Fuel Cutoff Switch.. but it's set at a nominal 1 bar
Not on an LPT it isn't.

Basre said:
1 bar (approx) about half thru the Red.
The stock APC gauge is so inaccurate that halfway through the red can be anything from 0.8 bar to 1.4 bar depending on the car. Given such a variable, some cars would have got it right, but not something you want to rely on.

Basre said:
Effect is V close to having the Windshield hitting your face.. a completely unmistakable event.
Not on an LPT. The overpressure switch is set so low that what you feel is a jolt and loss of power, but it is certainly not violent.
 

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That must be something to do with the Lucas EFi then. On my Bosch car hitting the fuel cutout also meant head butting the steering wheel :evil:

Take a little tip from Mr. Nosebleed Sam
Kissed the screen in a traffic jam
It minced his face and it bust his nose
Broke his leg and ripped his clothes
Gotta to go faster
Gotta get along
Gotta to go faster
Grit your teeth, clench your jaw
Push yourself just a little bit more

(Take a Tip by Dr Feelgood, 1978)

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Could be - I connected mine up accidentally once when replacing hoses, and just lost power with a slight jolt at 0.6 bar boost. It was nothing like headbutting the wheel, just a little hiccup.

Charming little song :eek: :D
 

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no on a Bosch FI motor you headbutt the windscreen even in a T8 ;) ;)
its very upsetting for the wife when your out on a quite Sunday drive :cheesy: :cheesy:
she still keeps asking if we are going to headbutt the windscreen, when we go out in the T8..

Paul

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Saab Mad
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Behind the kick panel, on the passenger (UK) side. It's a circular device with a screw head in the centre, probably sealed with tamperproof goop. It can take quite some careful insistence before the goop breaks.

Hang on a mo - are the fuel cutouts fitted to Lucas cars even adjustable? I'm sure it's either Lucas CU14 or Bosch LH2.4.2 that have non-adjustable cutouts.

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Lucas can be adjusted, the other bosch-units are integrated in the ECU... AFAIR
Daniel.
 
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