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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Interesting morning problem for me lately. I start the car, comes to life immediately. Maybe five to ten seconds after startup I put it in gear, usually to reverse, but it happens in drive too (mind you this is an automatic :roll:). As of recently, when I put it in gear I get a horribly violent shudder that shakes the whole dashboard, and if left in gear long enough will kill the engine. Engine seems to be under heavy load when this happens. If I get it back into neutral or park soon enough the engine recovers, but rpm's shoot up to around the 1500 to 1700 rpm mark and stay there for a couple seconds. Once it has simmered back down to a lower rpm, put it into gear things are good to go. What the hell is going on? I never had this trouble before (maybe I have during the winter months). I've got no CGL's and no CEL's, fluid levels are appropriate, etc. Could this be an issue with the torque converter? I'm going to guess its trans. related if the engine is fine once the load is off. Any insight greatly appreciated!
 

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Just a shot in the dark but do you think it could be vacuum related? Do you have any cracked hoses that might affect idle and power to the engine? Also, the transmissions in these cars are not that problematic, so I would be surprised to see a torque converter problem the Aisin-Warner transmission is the same as the ones used in the v6 camry's and the Lexus Es300. Very reliable transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm pretty sure that my vacuum lines are good, replaced them all last fall. Didn't use anything fancy. I will re-examine them this morning though. I wonder if perhaps something is up with the brake booster since when I shift it into gear I need to have my foot on the brake. Perhaps inadequate vacuum is being developed when I put it in gear.
 

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Sounds like a description of the engine lugging. If this turns out to be an issue with the brake booster, please post.

Normally the one-way valve in the brake booster line opens for a short time when you step on the brake, then closes when vacuum is re-established. The vacuum in the intake drops only briefly. I suppose this could get screwed up somehow if the diaphram in the brake booster were broken, but I fail to see how. If the diaphram is gone, a second person can usually hear hissing from there with the brake pedal pressed. Then you could have a vacuum leak any time the brake pedal is pressed.
 

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Same here. It was more frequent with the bad DI and more frequent in the cold. The engine usually revs lower than the usual idle(around 800) at the startup, but does not stumble until in gear. If you just wait for the revs to shoot up then settle back down (which it should if it starts and holds the low revs) it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Engine revs seem to be normal immediately following start up, sit about 850-900 rpm. True, the rpm's do settle after the whole violent attack. Thinking about this more I do recall this occasionally happening in the cold months. I'd like to solve the mystery, but in the meantime, I guess I just have to remember to allow it to warm up a bit more.
 

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mine also does this every once in a while when putting in gear for the first time in the morning (usually reverse). I cleared a lot of that up by replacing all my vaccum lines - but it is still there to a degree afterwards. Also, you may want to check and clean your IAC - heres a tutorial for this - this is not my information, this was provided by Michael Briand (i guess, i could be wrong)
http://pages.infinit.net/mlbriand/saab/iac/page1.html

When I first got into saabs, I thought there was something called the "Saab Shake" that was directly correlated with NG's and above. Something about when put in gear, they shake and shudder for just a second, or drop idle. I thought it had more to do with the overall idle of the car - but i dont remember clearly. Anyone else heard of this?? It certainly seems to be a common problem with out cars given the response in this thread. If there wasnt a Saab Shake before, there is now...
 

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IMO, the Saab 900ng uses a not so good engine mount system. The Saab 9-5 is much better.

The car is based on an Opel(too small).
How about a long over-due concerted effort by GM/Saab/Opel engineers to design a good middle priced vehicle for the Euro/American markets ??? Unfortuniately, this is probably impossible, at least for now.:nono;
 

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considering this whole issue. I just went for my lunch - which by the way is, 30 minutes of me not eating, but driving around, sniffin' the breeze wishing i had a turbo...

The shuddering, when first putting into gear, was completely non-existent. I mean, there isnt a terrible vibration when it goes into gear usually - but it does slightly, and doesnt feel good. Anyway, I just cant figure out why our cars would be this way. Whats missing thats causing the vibration? What happens to make it shift nicely into gear? strange. ;)
 

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erratic idle

i have the same thing with the erratic idle when engine is first started, mine does not need to be shifted in gear though. going to take my '02 93 into dealer for this very reason sometime before july, (since it is still under warranty and we can let them deal with it). if i find out anything i'll let you all know.
 

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roadrage said:
i have the same thing with the erratic idle when engine is first started, mine does not need to be shifted in gear though. going to take my '02 93 into dealer for this very reason sometime before july, (since it is still under warranty and we can let them deal with it). if i find out anything i'll let you all know.
Do it ASAP while still under warranty, it's probably your throttle body, and that is a big ticket item...
 

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What you guys are describing could be related to a badengine / transmission mount combined with a need to change the transmission fluid.

A cleaning of the IAC might be a very good idea as well. Does that happen on cold only??? Cold be temp sensor related as well.
 

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hkayssi said:
Do it ASAP while still under warranty, it's probably your throttle body, and that is a big ticket item...
We have here quite a menagerie of throttle body(T5,T) and engine mount problems with some AIC thrown in. One aggravates the other..

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102352&page=1&pp=20

The bodies can be cleaned, the success rate may not be 100%, but it is better than shelling out hundreds of dollars..
 

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earthworm said:
We have here quite a menagerie of throttle body(T5,T) and engine mount problems with some AIC thrown in. One aggravates the other..

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102352&page=1&pp=20

The bodies can be cleaned, the success rate may not be 100%, but it is better than shelling out hundreds of dollars..
Yes but the T7 TB is crap, many integratedelectrical parts can't be replaced. Since the car is still under warranty I'd have them replace it with a new unit for free ;)
 

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i took the car in for my bad idle and they cleaned the throttle body, the top end and replaced the plugs and said all is well. they asked me about fuel cunsumption (maybe its related). told me people are complaining about the fuel consumption lately, they think it is due to the oxygenated fuel w/ethanol we use these days.

then they fixed a re-call from 2007. hooked up my new crank vent kit that i had in the trunk, replaced a dome light and brake light, and fixed a leak i had coming in on the tail light. have yet to get it back though. they found bad cv axle so they are fixing that too (waiting on parts). all on saabs bill. gotta like them warranties.
 

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hello yes saab have all know issues , i am dealing with this rummbling idle problems for long time,.. i have saab 9000 aero 1996 and i replaced
-new DI,
- cleaned Idle IAC valve and buy new IAC valve but they send me IAC for 900 and not for 9000 t link IAC
-new gapped plugs Ngk Bcpr7es put on DI gapps dialectric grease,
- than all new vacuum hoses,
- new breather nipple,
-new pcv valve,
-new radiator,
-rebuilt the turbine with new gasket in saab mechanic shop
- new head gasket
- new middle pipe exhaust and end top exhaust
- new transmission lower mount and upper engine mount,
-new joint shaft,
- new rubber tranmission 8 mm nuts both sides
- new thermostat
- new fuel and air and oil filter
- than i started to piss this saab i put so much cash in this car
- also i changed all new anti sway bar bushes if someone had harsh ride check sway bar end links on both sides
- new rear shock absorbers
-new front shocks
.. than i read it can be bad throttle body, bad cable throttle, or bad brake booster or bad clutch, then i read it can be bad ground electric problems, bad sensors coolant sensor, i sprayed all contacts with contact spray, my car is without maf sensor so there is no maf issues ,map sensor i have , bad IAT air intake sensor, it can be also bad knock crank position sensor or in the end maybe bad car with trionic stupid DI cassetes, why they did not get old fashioned cables, rotor and distributor cap it would be much better than this electronic epoksy nonsense,.. i changed 3 DI cassetes in 1 year original ones.. the last one is new but i still have misfire problems every day ,every time i cranck it up, than i read it can be bad ignition lock cylinder inside the booth ,changed 3 pack of sparks

i decided i will buy a volvo 850 again from friend of mine( he had 25 volvos 850 now 3 of them, he sold 23 850, and they still run with 400 or 500 000 km) for backup car cause i do not trust and tolerate that direct ignition ufo anymore



,.. you know when you change all this crap you started to feel like saab is unstable car, i had 3 volvo 850 they never let me down in any weather any condition,... the best boolet proof tankr money can buy and if volvo had all check engine on, it is a volvo just drive and don-t give a f,....

today i went to mechanic they piss when they see my saab oh saab again here, and we checked under the car >

HYDRAULIC MOUNTS can get all sort of rummbling-bouncing ,erratic problems so please guys check hydraulic mounts cause they can cause serious damage to all other upper engine nad transmission mounts to trash, some says it can be bad fuel pump or bad check valve of fuel pump, other says it can be bad return valve of fuel pump, then 5 guy changed mechanic say buy new o2 oxygen sensors, 6 guy said it can be bad dump valve and actuator, 7 mechanic said change ECU unit, since pro saab mechanic said he never had anu saab with broken ECU it can be repaired nicely if broken,or bad fuel regulator and you can buy another saab just to change all this stuff original , but in the end saab tester say there is no check engine lights!!

anyway it is great car but volvo is still a volvo sorry saab

so i think now i have P.h.d degree on saab 9000 but the car still **** with my mind ,
 
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