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Hey guys, this is my first post here. I've found the forum very helpful in the past, but I ran into a problem I'm having trouble pinning down. This is copied from the Classic 900 area, where I mistakenly put it.

About a week ago my 96 900 SE Turbo starting giving me the most annoying acceleration problem. I need to rev up to somewhere between 3000-4000 RPM just to get the car moving in first or reverse, and it takes a good 8 seconds or so before I can get up to 20 MPH. Once I build momentum I can manage well enough (except on hills, and it's probably dangerous getting on the highway).

DurocShark asked about reving freely in neutral. It revs seemingly normally in neutral and idles steadily at 1000 RPM, which is the same as before the problem started. Accelerating is equally bad in every gear, just more noticeable when first getting moving.

Possibly related: http://imgur.com/q5sty

I was investigating, and found that the bottom of this was loose and the top hose was broken off. I connected the broken hose with the straw from a thing of canned air and put silicon sealant around the seams.

So far I've read similar stories with talk of transmission fluid, missing bolts, or some problem with the shifter or turbo. Am I hurting my transmission by continuing to drive it?

Thanks for any tips.
 

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1,692 Posts
Check all your small vacuum lines. They control all sorts of stuff (including the turbo).
 

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I had the same issue on my Saab 900se turbo. 1996 97 Unsure of the year. Started replacing all the lines and the car ran better. After all that was done. One day later I we sitting at the stop sign and a Van hit us and use us to stop them. They where going about 60mph. Total my Saab. :cry:.

But good news. $2,500 I getting a Saab convertable with a 2.3 Viggen motor :eek:.
 

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not wishing to scare you my syptems were Exactly the same, no boost from turbo, after testing all the lines and waste gate etc,etc as suggested by the guys on this site, no choice, I took it to a Saab dealer, they found the problem to be a seized turbo, now if it is that, don’t do as I have done and let them replace it £1500, about $2400, i found out after there is lots of places selling new ones or will exchange them for a lot, lot less, than the dealer, I’ve already been stung, too late for me, here’s hoping its not that serious for you!
 

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1st off, I hope the backing of the rubber grommet you siliconed isn't in the engine. If you had a true boost gauge, we could tell you if it was the cat as vacuum at idle will be off. A cheaper alternative is buy a vacuum gauge from a parts store, then hook it up in place of the BOV. (You're ONLY checking idle with it, don't drive like that!). Then tell us what number it's showing in vacuum at idle. For the turbo, unbolt your down pipe and check that the turbo is not seized. You can also unbolt the intake pipe feeding the turbo and check the compressor wheel. You should have no up/down play and virtually no in/out, and you should be able to spin the shaft. If the shaft won't spin, it's dead. If you have up/down play the turbo is dying. If you have a lot of in/out play, the turbo is dying.
 

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silly question.. Is the clutch slipping? if you are reving to 3000-4000 it would be going faster than 20
 

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+1 on the clutch slippage (if the said car is a MT).
 
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