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Discussion Starter #1
So, on my 04, 9-3 I recently needed to swap out my ECU as I was getting all kinds of CEL codes and LHM's. Good news is that the replacement ECU fixed my problem. However, immediately after the swap (literally close the hood, start car etc) I got a new CEL code P0300 and the idle was hunting up and down. After checking this forum I went and inspected the vacuum line by the dipstick (this part) and noticed it was split and was falling off. My guess is that it was already corroding and it probably got bent and dinged up even more with the ECU swap. So, bought the replacement part and yesterday I cleared the codes and fitted the new part. BTW, when I fitted it yesterday, the old hose was completely off at the one end and I had an additional code, I now had P0101 as well as P0300.

I'd say I have 50% fixed the problem. The idle is much better, but I still get some misfiring at higher RPM's when I'm driving. I've read a couple of other threads on this forum saying that I need to check spark plugs and coils. But before I go there, are there any other things that I should look at? Have I exhausted all of the vacuum lines with this one "dipstick-close" one? Basically, what I'm asking is that where would an experienced mechanic go next for this problem? More vacuum lines or straight on to plugs and coils? BTW, car isn't throwing any CEL's since I cleared them yesterday and fitted the new hose.

Thanks guys,
 

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So, on my 04, 9-3 I recently needed to swap out my ECU as I was getting all kinds of CEL codes and LHM's. Good news is that the replacement ECU fixed my problem. However, immediately after the swap (literally close the hood, start car etc) I got a new CEL code P0300 and the idle was hunting up and down. After checking this forum I went and inspected the vacuum line by the dipstick (this part) and noticed it was split and was falling off. My guess is that it was already corroding and it probably got bent and dinged up even more with the ECU swap. So, bought the replacement part and yesterday I cleared the codes and fitted the new part. BTW, when I fitted it yesterday, the old hose was completely off at the one end and I had an additional code, I now had P0101 as well as P0300.

I'd say I have 50% fixed the problem. The idle is much better, but I still get some misfiring at higher RPM's when I'm driving. I've read a couple of other threads on this forum saying that I need to check spark plugs and coils. But before I go there, are there any other things that I should look at? Have I exhausted all of the vacuum lines with this one "dipstick-close" one? Basically, what I'm asking is that where would an experienced mechanic go next for this problem? More vacuum lines or straight on to plugs and coils? BTW, car isn't throwing any CEL's since I cleared them yesterday and fitted the new hose.

Thanks guys,
That's the EVAP outlet hose that connects to the purge valve. There's also another one on the other side of the purge valve called the EVAP inlet hose (12788024). I'd check it for leaks while you're at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, I inspected the evap inlet hose and all looks good, couldn't spot any sign of leaks. While I had the hood up I also pulled spark plug #1 just to do a visual inspection. It all looked pretty good.

I'm a bit perplexed by this problem. I can understand the origins of the problem. I was getting a load of random error codes (incl ECU faulty) that were pointing to a defective ECU. Replaced the ECU (which is right above the evap outlet hose) and successfully cleared all of those errors. But then immediately get a P0300 error. Find a corroded and split evap outlet hose right below the ECU, that obviously was getting tugged and moved around during ECU removal/replacement. Replace the outlet hose and the P0300 error has gone, however, I am still getting some misfiring when I put my foot down to get some high RPM acceleration.

I guess I can replace the evap inlet hose for some safeguarding, but if that doesn't fix it, then my limited knowledge tells me to move on to spark plugs and coils. But the timing of this is making me think it's not the plugs/coils. Would I really have a split/faulty evap hose as well as a plug/coil issue both contributing to misfiring at the same time?

Any help/guidance here much appreciated.
 

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Does the scanner your using to clear codes also provide you with misfire information? Can it tell you which cylinders are misfiring or what the misfire counts are?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Silver Saab,

The scanner I use is a bluetooth adapter and then I use this app on my phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en_US. While there is some information in the app about misfire, I don't know how or what information is even possible. I welcome some advice from anyone on the forum on how to get the misfire information?????

One other thing. I might've slightly misrepresented the facts here. I've monitored the misfire over the past few days. The car is a manual transmission. I get the misfire when I'm upshifting between 2,200 ish rpms and 2,800 ish rpms. Once I hit 3,000rpms I don't have any misfire.

Appreciate any help!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Silver Saab,

Thanks for your post. It's funny, as soon as I posted my comment above, I went to Youtube and found the very same video.

So, I tried what the youtuber suggested and didn't come up with anything. But there wasn't a Saab PID pack to load so I just loaded "Other". A lot of what I am talking about here I don't really understand. Anyhow, so, I'm not sure if I didn't get misfire information because I'm doing something wrong or because I didn't load the correct PID pack. I'm gonna start another thread on the forum trying to get Torque setup correctly and then I will come back to this misfire. I'll keep you posted.
 
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