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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 9-5 Wagon SE with V6. Engine is dead. I am told it was the block but I suspect the heads. I have 2 replacement engines both V6s 1 is a 1999 with 60k the other is a 2003 with a bad head and 165k. I am trying to remove and install the 99 with 60k however the WIS says to remove engine from bottom of car (lifting car off of engine) I spoke to my indy (who wants $850 to install) and the owner said I would need to remove the tranny and maybe the engine could come out the top, his mechanic said it would be better if I pulled the trans with the engine as they would be hard to separate inside of car but he said I would need to remove at least the battery tray, brake master and booster and ABS and then maybe more to even attempt it.
Has anyone here done this or know of it being done and how easy is it? (I know its not easy)
$850is reasonable but I dont have the $$$ unless I scrap or sell my 88 900 for 450 or more. any help is greatly appreciated
thanks
(wasnt sure if to post here or performance dont want to double post so its here)
 

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My understanding is the V6 can come out of the top with the tranny attached (manuals, not sure about automatics).

I tried to do a 2.3L out the top with tranny hooked to it and it would not come out, I had to drop the tranny out of the bottom, it sucked but its another option. The real kicker is getting it back together under the car. This was on a '97 900 which is narrower then the 9-5, and the 4 cylinder is wider then the v6.

My point is you should be good to go out the top.
 

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By the way- I don't think you will need to remove the brake booster or much else besides the air box, battery, and tray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My understanding is the V6 can come out of the top with the tranny attached (manuals, not sure about automatics).

I tried to do a 2.3L out the top with tranny hooked to it and it would not come out, I had to drop the tranny out of the bottom, it sucked but its another option. The real kicker is getting it back together under the car. This was on a '97 900 which is narrower then the 9-5, and the 4 cylinder is wider then the v6.

My point is you should be good to go out the top.
thanks
its an auto, just having trouble figuring out how to separate the trans in vehicle, what worrys me is the abs lines and other minor things that I may hit if I dont separate, but your advise is well taken and encouraging
thanks
 

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What I did was hoist the engine up, unbolt all engine and tranny mounts, remove fuel lines, electrical harness. Remove the front subframe, wheels, axles, then tilt the engine so that the tranny drops down, unbolt it and away you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What I did was hoist the engine up, unbolt all engine and tranny mounts, remove fuel lines, electrical harness. Remove the front subframe, wheels, axles, then tilt the engine so that the tranny drops down, unbolt it and away you go.
a big thanks on that one!!!!
 

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Hi there. Saabdozer has a V-6 in his 9-5 and I believe he took his out the top separated from the tranny. I did it with the 4 cyl and it worked just fine. I had to remove the pulley/balancer, but it wasn't too bad. If the auto tranny is the same as the 4 cyl, then you can remove the plate on the bottom of the tranny and rotate the engine around and remove the 8 (I think) bolts that connect to the torque converter. Overall, $850 isn't bad for a swap, but if you don't have the $ then it would'nt be too bad a job if you have, or can borrow an engine hoist. My thread was "Got the engine out." There are more threads about going out the top too. Try w/o the tranny first. Should work just fine for you.
 

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Just did this... easy as friggin pie! One of the simplest cars i've ever worked on.

Step 1: Remove the intake plenum, all the cooling system/radiator hoses except Y pipe and rear radiator hose, fuel lines, intake/turbo piping and the serpentine belt along with the A/C and power steering pump then get after the exhaust, I removed the entire system just for more room... you'll need it. Disconnect all topside wiring from the motor, DIC's, MAF, fans, oil sending unit at the front of the engine by the crank pulley, etc., then from the backside disconnect the alternator and starter wiring (4 wires) along with a bracket that holds those wires, leave the starter and alternator attached. Then there's a carrier axle bracket bolted to the engine, remove the 3 bolts from the bracket. No need to disconnect any other wiring.

Step 2: Remove the plastic plug next to the starter, that's where you'll access the torque converter/pressure plate bolts, there's 6 of them. Use a 12 point 5/8" socket to roll the motor over, after loosening the spark plugs of course. After that I think all bottom side work is primarily done. There's a cooling system "Y" pipe and radiator hose at the rear of the engine... topside, remove that but leave the plumbing attached and leave the rear radiator hose attached, just tuck and fold that stuff out of your way. Then chain that puppy up cuz it's almost ready to come out! After you're all chained up and ready to hoist it out there's like 9 bolts on the bell housing, get the 2 by the starter while you're down there. Put a bit of tension on the hoist and disconnect the rest, then... give it a bit of a shake and maybe a pry to seperate. It should come right out with plenty of clearance but lift it out slowly and make sure nothing is still attached.

Step 3: Repeat the process in reverse, as you lower the motor in make sure the axle carrier bracket is rolled into position before the motor comes down the last few inches. There's a rubber plug at the bottom of the auto trans bell housing, pop it out before you put the engine in... you'll use that hole to spin the torque converter around with your finger to line it up with the flywheel.

Step 4: Put all the wiring brackets back on, hook up your electrical which is almost idiot proof, no two connections are the same and if they are they won't reach so you almost can't screw it up. No need to cut zip ties (you'll need to cut a couple), use bent needle nose pliers to release the holders. The injector wires are numbered and again... no wires will reach any farther than they need to go.

Step 5: Hook up your turbo and cooling plumbing and you can probably figure it out from there.

I spent about 80 hours on my swap but I dismantled 2 cars and swapped out numerous other parts, realistically you could do it RIGHT, in 4 weekends MAX! I drank a lot of beer, BS'd, and did quite a bit of screwing around. Also, I have very little mechanical experience and a very simple set of tools, a "husky pro" socket set, some torx sockets for both kinds (?male/female?), torx bits, etc., you'll need a 22mm in there somewhere, for the timing belt I think.

Just put every bolt back where it goes so you don't get them mixed up and if you have ANY questions don't hesitate to post or PM me i'd be happy to help out any way I can!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks, I will follow the steps (although I got some done) it looks complete and as you said easy as a smorgasbord of gravlax and lingonberry jam.
thanks to all
 

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Yep, not nearly as hard as it first looked. I really thought i'd bitten off more than I could chew but the further I got into it the easier it got. After all the wiring comes off it's still just a basic motor assembled the same way they've been doing it for 30 years.

I was just trying to give you the basics, let you know what doesn't need to come off and what does. I pulled quite a few items off that didn't need to and it cost me some time.

The only thing I kind of screwed up on was not putting the rear radiator hose on while it was out and before the Y pipe went on, not rolling the carrier bracket into position before the motor was in and not hooking up the turbo/IC plumbing up earlier in the process. Check out Nathans' "Got the engine out" thread for some helpful info.

Keep us posted on your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep, not nearly as hard as it first looked. I really thought i'd bitten off more than I could chew but the further I got into it the easier it got. After all the wiring comes off it's still just a basic motor assembled the same way they've been doing it for 30 years.

I was just trying to give you the basics, let you know what doesn't need to come off and what does. I pulled quite a few items off that didn't need to and it cost me some time.

The only thing I kind of screwed up on was not putting the rear radiator hose on while it was out and before the Y pipe went on, not rolling the carrier bracket into position before the motor was in and not hooking up the turbo/IC plumbing up earlier in the process. Check out Nathans' "Got the engine out" thread for some helpful info.

Keep us posted on your progress!
Yeah I brought the car back from my indie and started at it and then thought what have I gotten into? looked like it would never happen. your post makes it pretty clear. heading into garage now. will keep you updated when I get back,
thanks
 

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Just post on the thread if you get stuck. I'm sure somebody here on Saab Central will chime in to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just post on the thread if you get stuck. I'm sure somebody here on Saab Central will chime in to help.
going good so far with SaabDozers instructions
got upto last wire on starter. going next for torque converter bolts and 2 bolts near starter.
then just about woohooo
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got Stuck

ok went really good......
now I am at the 2 tranny bolts by the starter, I got the lower one out using air torque wrench. cant get it to fit to get upper bolt out. very close but not working, used universal joint with various extentions...no go, used ratchet and breaker bar but I cant get enough space to turn the ratchet, I keep hiting the intermediate shaft and cant find a place where I can get some torque on it to get it out.... tried a little from top too
so I tried for over an hour and a half with no luck and moved onto the torque converter, the plastic cover was missing but I did find a silver dollar size hole where I think it was and as access to the torque converter bolts, bu same as the upper bolt by the starter I cant find the space to get some torque on it to release it, I keep hitting th intermendiate shaft and again cant find the space to get somehing turning.
any help is and has been greatly appreciated.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok now thinking of pulling starter and manifold to get at trans bolt near starter. havent been able to turn it so far and dont want to strip it
had also thought of buying shorter air torque wrench.
any ideas before I try?
 

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I had to use a 12 pt socket and a 1/2" handle with a "fine" ratchet mechanism to get just enough ***** on it to get them loose, same with the trans bolts. They're only about 1/2" long and aren't all that tight just a pain to get to. You just have to turn em out a couple of clicks at a time, no need to remove the manifold or starter.

Try a few combinations of regular and deep sockets and extensions, you'll get it. Again, 12 pt. sockets are the key for a lot of those tight spaces. It sounds like your making good progress on the removal, you're farther than I was in less time.

A dab of grease on the bolt heads will help when you put them back in, don't want to drop one of those puppies and have to seperate the motor/trans again
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yeah, I didnt know about "fine" rachet but think that would work.
I am going back at it this am and if those come out then its hoist it up time
thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
wow that trans bolt was a pita, must have been torque way too much.
I had to remove the alternator and used 300lbs+ with air torque wrench. then got at the converter bolts and got all 6 with ease.
hooking up lift and pulling inthe next hour or so.
have the front eye ring for lift cant find a rear one, so ill be looking for a strong bolt or tapped hole.
I do have leveler and can go up to 4 point but I think for the removal 2 will be enough.
thanks saabdozer I couldnt have got this far without you, broke up your 1st 2 steps into 16, separated them, printed it up and started checking them off, working great now. I keep all up to date as I am bound to run into trouble again and maybe able to pass along some future tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
got it out, should have taken hood off but it made it anyway,
next throw the new one in.
only last catch was the 3 lower trans bolts that I forgot (16mm)
 

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Yea I had to fab a rear hook up out of some flat stock and put a couple of shackles on them. Ummm I guess I forgot to mention the three 16mm bolts. Oh well, you're gettin after it regardless, good job man. Not as hard as it first seemed is it?

If you take the hood off make sure you mark the position somehow before you remove it cuz if it's too far forward or back the latch pins will get jammed and you'll have a helluva time getting it open again (speaking from experience)!
 
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