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Discussion Starter #1
The 19T is a relatively easy turbo to install, but it can also be a very easy install. I put mine on last night and had it tuned today by JZW. Results are :cheesy: :eek: ;ol; :cool:



For those that don't know, the 19T is simply a larger compressor in the stock housing, so it bolts up to all existing hardware. A stock TD04 is sent out and machined for the larger compressor housing. I purchased a used V6 turbo on ebay so I would not have to take my Turbo X off the road. I did not clip my turbine blades.

I also had the turbine housing and downpipe ceramic coated by Swain-Tech to help reduce engine bay temps.



Swapping in a 19T on the V6 is not a tough job due to the location of the turbo. But it can be made very easy, perhaps as quick as 2 hours to swap, if you leave the stock turbine housing on the engine. The reason for this is because a 19T upgrade does not modify the turbine housing. So there is no difference between the stock housing and the spare one you sent out to be machined.

The coolant and oil lines are easy to remove from the turbo. The wastegate needs to be removed and all the connections to the compressor housing. Then the collar on the turbo center section can be removed. The turbo then slips out of the turbine housing. At this point you can slide in your 19T and begin reassembly.



I obviously had modified my turbine housing by porting it and coating it. Swapping the turbine housing was the majority of my time for the turbo swap. The turbine housing is difficult to remove because both exhaust manifold inlets to it are studded. So the housing can not simply slide out. One of the manifold inlets must be removed before the turbine housing can be removed. The front inlet is easiest to remove. But the heat shield covering it makes this difficult. I ended up bending my heat shield to reach the 3 bolts holding it to the exhaust manifold. This worked well and I was able to bend it back afterwards.



I took the opportunity to wrap the inlet pipes to the turbine housing. The extra wrap on the downpipe allowed me to remove the stock heat shield and lower the coolant reservoir so the Map Tun strut brace would fit properly. I added a small heat shield to the side to add protection to the battery.



No dyno yet and probably not till early January, but the initial results feel great. Air/mass is significantly increased across the entire rpm range with no noticeable increase in lag. The 19T is a great and relatively simple upgrade.

*With everything exposed it's a great time to install the Genuine Saab 6 speed Shifter Cable Reinforcement. I just put mine in and it makes a small but noticeable improvement in the stiffness of the manual shifter.

**Make sure you have a new gasket for the turbo oil drain line. The original one is destroyed when removed.
 

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I'm simply in awe.

Was inspired to go to the swaintech.com website: Looking at their pricing sheet...was the coating 'white lightning' type?

What was the turnaround to get those parts coated? I see SwainTech is in NY.

;ol;
 

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Great write up! Where did you order the new gaskets? I plan on doing this very soon as well. This is major help since I was going to jump in without ever removing a turbo before.
 

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Thats very impressive looking....nice work but i'd be adding a bit more heatsheilding near the battery.
Is there any noticeable lose in spool-up time from low revs.
 

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Very impressive work man ;ol;

Turbo blanket would be a nice add on to the ceramic coated hotside.....

If the lotus didn't make me jealous your engine bay sure is now looks amazing def going to be big smiles when you get that retuned.
 

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In addition to the ceramic coating, you always wrapped your DP with a heat wrap??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Was inspired to go to the swaintech.com website: Looking at their pricing sheet...was the coating 'white lightning' type? What was the turnaround to get those parts coated? I see SwainTech is in NY.
Yes, it is White Lightning. It is a thick coating and rather tough. I definitely recommend it. Took about 3 weeks turnaround for the parts. The down pipe cost $110 with shipping and the turbine housing was $135. I was surprised at the cost for the turbine housing. I think this was because it had more none coated surfaces, which required more labor to prepare the part.

As Usual great work ERP! PS. Maybe Back in the colorado springs area soon will have to hit you up if I do. This time beer is on me :)
Cool, let me know when you are in town. I have a local hefeweizen and stout on tap right now so don't worry about BYOB :)

Great write up! Where did you order the new gaskets? I plan on doing this very soon as well. This is major help since I was going to jump in without ever removing a turbo before.
I have a few spare TD04s lying around the garage and I was able to use the gasket from one of them. Three of my current cars are running TD04s, which is a convenient coincidence. For reference the gasket looks like this.



nice work but i'd be adding a bit more heatsheilding near the battery.
Is there any noticeable lose in spool-up time from low revs.
The new heat shielding protects the battery well. The ceramic coating and exhaust wrap significantly limits heat transfer. I have not noticed and increase in turbo spool-up. But it is a larger compressor so I would expect a measurable increase to lag. I will have to wait until the dyno to know for sure.

awesome upgrade, i cant wait to do mine. did you upgrade injectors also?
Still using the stock injectors. Because of my high altitude the 19T does not max out the stock fuel system.

In addition to the ceramic coating, you always wrapped your DP with a heat wrap??
Because of the layout of the V6 engine I wanted the extra protection of coating and wrapping the downpipe. The coolant reservoir, battery, shifter cables and braking components are all perilously close to the downpipe. I am expecting to own this Turbo X for a long time, so I was willing to spend a bit more for the added protection.
 

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Very nice, so much talent. ;ol;

The rest of us (some of us anyway), are such hackers by comparison.

Nice way to put that MapTun bar to use that was the first thing caught my eye!

Two questions about venting heat.

Are you seeing any use for subtle vents (not Subbie massive scoops) in that negative pressure zone by the cowl? I think one of the last Nissan cars had them and they were not "look at me" items.

Would there be any merit at all to putting a "micro-fan" type device to provide positive pressure air to the battery box, drawing air from a remote source like that fender well?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update:
Well of course any upgrade like this is not completely without incident. Since upgrading the turbo the extra airflow has been giving me the dreaded misfires at peak boost, 3-3.5k rpms. It wasn't bad, it felt almost exactly like it did the last time I had this issue. Before upgrading the turbo I had replaced all the coils and all the sparkplugs with the stock Densos. The last time it ended up being a coil that was bad. So naturally I expected that another coil had gone bad. But John suggested that I change the plugs first. As it turned out it was a bad plug which was causing the misfires.

The picture below shows the problem. Keep in mind that these plugs are 3 months old! Five of them were still gapped to 0.85 mm, but the back right plug was evaporated/broken so that the gap was 1.15 mm. I upgraded all plugs to NGK LFR7AIX Iridium Plugs. They are one step colder and come gapped at 0.75mm. The engine is now running flawlessly.




After two weeks with the new downpipe I have noticed some heat damage to the electrical plug at the bottom of the coolant reservoir. The blue plastic was beginning to turn brown and melt, it was not protected by a heat shield. I have installed a larger heat shield underneath the coolant reservoir to protect the plastics. I'll be keeping an eye on it to see if it gets any worse.

Are you seeing any use for subtle vents (not Subbie massive scoops) in that negative pressure zone by the cowl? I think one of the last Nissan cars had them and they were not "look at me" items.

Would there be any merit at all to putting a "micro-fan" type device to provide positive pressure air to the battery box, drawing air from a remote source like that fender well?
Even with the small heat problem I mentioned above, I do not think it is necessary to install anything besides good heat shields. If I was going to track this car, where it would see high rpms for sustained periods, I would move the battery to the trunk and relocate the coolant reservoir to the battery's location.

Now I just need to schedule some dyno time.
 

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Update:
Now I just need to schedule some dyno time.
If you happen to head to Mac Autosport in Parker let me know, Id love to come check out your car!
 

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dyno time WOOT, you should see well beyond 300whp since John was able to tune that one guy to over 300whp on stock turbo. good luck on the dyno, sucks about hat broken plug too, but a new plug is cheaper than a new coil ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you happen to head to Mac Autosport in Parker let me know, Id love to come check out your car!
That's where I'm going. I'll let you know when I have a date scheduled.

dyno time WOOT, you should see well beyond 300whp since John was able to tune that one guy to over 300whp on stock turbo.
I probably wont see over 300 whp. The other JZW tune which made over 300 whp was a FWD V6 Aero. The AWD loss should put me just below 300 whp.

i've been waiting patiently for some dyno/track reults
I'll post the dyno once I have it, but the track times wont mean much unless you are familiar with High Plains Raceway, 2.45-2.50 lap times.


My wife is driving the Turbo X.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The dyno will be at MAC Autosports in Parker CO on Tuesday the 17th at 3:30 pm, for those who want to stop by.
 

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that downpipe and turbine housing looks sick, I think I'm going to end up sending mine out once i make it. I have a question about the whole concept of the 19 t upgrade. When you sent it out to have it machined does the entire center section get replaced? or does just the compressor wheel get swapped out to the bigger 19t one and the housing is machined to fit over the bigger wheel?
 

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The dyno will be at MAC Autosports in Parker CO on Tuesday the 17th at 3:30 pm, for those who want to stop by.
Great, as of right now I have nothing going on that day, Hopefully nothing pops up between now and then and I can swing by and check it out! ;ol;
 

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Discussion Starter #20
When you sent it out to have it machined does the entire center section get replaced? or does just the compressor wheel get swapped out to the bigger 19t one and the housing is machined to fit over the bigger wheel?
Just the wheel is upgraded and the compressor housing is machined. However, you do have the option to have the center section rebuilt. Some of the metal components of the thrust bearing are replaced. Since the turbo I purchased was rather new with low miles and no shaft play I did not rebuild the center section. Here is a picture of a typical TDO4 rebuild kit.

 
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